Anyone install a mercury recoil tube?

Was thinking about installing a mercury recoil tube in my 308. I have blown one scope..replaced it with a high end BSA which works great but while sighting that in, somehow the recoil stripped out a scope ring Allen bolt (XP stock rings) from the recoil and replaced those too but haven't had a chance to get to the range yet. Never had a scope ring strip a bolt before.

Has anyone installed a mercury tube? If so, did it help with lessening the recoil and where in the butt did you install it? Not only do I need to drill the hole for the tube, but I also have to epoxy it in place and I haven't looked into the butt to see if it is even possible due to hollow areas in the butt.

Thanks, Dan

Dan,
To answer the questions that you asked; when you get the recoil pad off (making sure not to break that cute little tab) you will find that the stock is hollow, no need to drill. Unless you have a spare mercury recoil tube laying around that you have pulled from a shotgun, I wouldn't spend the money. Shot in a ziploc bag taped up will do the same thing. I would suspend it & fill the butt with expandable foam. It will change the balance point a little but it does address your concern.

Good luck,
Mike

I developed my own version--cost you maybe a few bucks. I found a used 1.25" diameter aluminum tube which I flatten at one end so it can fit snugly up into the wrist of the stock and cut to length so the other end fits up against the buttpad. This was originally done to stiffen the buttstock portion--but then I figured what the heck--and filled the tube with washers and rubber bushings--usually about 4 washers to each bushing in column and a slightly compressed steel spring which fit snugly inside the tube.

Does it work? I dunno--but I can fire my 308 and 300 win mag all day and it doesn't seem to hurt. In the end--even if it's imagined benefit (which is half the gun industry anyway : ) ) I don't do the "anticipatory recoil flinch."

Dead mule type recoil reducers do work to lessen actual recoil impulse. I helped gather accelerometer data on a project to reduce recoil on a .450 bushmaster when a friend needed a fresh shoulder to pull the trigger for a while. The difference with and without his tuned reducers was amazing. they use a tuned spring and weights to counter the recoil impulse.

This being said, Recoil from a .308 (adequate but not exactly a brute cartridge) should not destroy a decent scope setup that's properly installed. Over tightening is probably the most common cause of stripping screws. Especially on aluminum bases and rings.
I would recommend buying a new set from a reputable manufacturer known for good products.You may want to check the ring and base manufacturers torque specs before tightening them up.
The same goes for a scope. By the time you spend the money go through the aggravation and tear up a couple of cheap ones of a brand known for poor quality, you could have been using a much better unit all along. Buy once cry once.

I installed one on my 338 and really didn't notice any difference.

I put 2lbs of #9 shot epoxied in the stock and it definitely made a difference.

Dennis

I also made a tube:

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...psb150ab88.jpg

Used 1/2 copper tubing that I had laying around. Soldered one end on and put about 1 1/2 lbs of #5 shot in leaving a space. I then put the other cap on and soldered it. Haven't epoxied it in yet...

Thanks for the replies. The stripped rings was my mistake by keeping the XP rings. I have upgraded. With the high end BSA scope matched for a 308 (after talking to BSA and going with their suggestion) I should be fine. Sounds like the mercury tube has mixed results. Across the web, I really haven't been impressed with the results from other people. I think I'm going to try and add about 30-36 ounces of split-shot lead in the stock and use minimum expanding foam to fill in the voids. What's the best way to do this? Put it in a plastic bag and tape it in the center of the butt with tape and fill with foam our should I break in down into 3 or 4 little baggies and distribute it evenly?

If I'm not happy with that result, I can always drill out the foam and stick a mercury tube in. A wood stock is always an option later on.

as for removing the butt pad, it was mentioned the tabs can be an issue. Anyone have any suggestions for me to ease removal?

dan

I did kind of the same but with sand. I took some sand blasting sand, the fine stuff, and filled it. When I put the recoil pad back on a ran a small bead of silicon around to keep the sand in. Did notice a difference in recoil but it made the stock feel kind of real. Haha. But I just order a tacticool from Boyds. Good luck.

If you put in a tube type dampner, what I have done is place the tube about 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" below the barrel and placed it in so about 1/8" space to the recoil pad. Measurment should be center to center of the barrel and dampner tube. The tube should be below and parrallel to the below. I've only done this to wood stocks and used 4" length mecury insert (Graco). It adds close to a pound of weight and I found placing it there really helps to balance the rifle. Plus, they worked.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cjfish

I did kind of the same but with sand. I took some sand blasting sand, the fine stuff, and filled it. When I put the recoil pad back on a ran a small bead of silicon around to keep the sand in. Did notice a difference in recoil but it made the stock feel kind of real. Haha. But I just order a tacticool from Boyds. Good luck.

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That's a good idea...just have to make sure there isn't any air holes.

Yeah filled it then tapped on the stock with a rubber mallet. I was going to put a thin coat of epoxy over the top but I figured it wound not seal it up all the way. I had thought about filling it with clay but figured I'd try sand first.