Help with glass bed and tweaking new 110

I just bought my first savage rifle, It was a new and never fired, but a display model. It was on there floor since 2007. It has a few small dings on the walnut stock, And a small scratch on the blue by the crown. It came with a simmons scope and rings, mounts, and sling. It has a accutrigger and is chambered in 7mm rem mag. $355.00. I am a paper puncher and have a few target grade rifles, but this is my first savage. I would like to see it as a tack driver, like the others in the safe. I have been looking at some techniques in bedding for this savage. I was going to float the tang, then bed the receiver. And looks like I float the recoil lug, except for the back side in glass??? Also I plan on changing out calibers so can I tape off the nut and continue to glass the chamber area??? Or just float from the nut??? As for lapping the lugs on the savage is it worth it??? And how good is the round crown on this barrel??? Any luck with flat recessed or 11 degree??? I am looking for advice on break in of this barrel too. Any advice on some good target loads for 7RM. I would appreciate any advice I can get.
P.S. I got roped in to reloading 7RM for the brother in law and a friend of mine, So I just mite as well have one around for my self. I have a Nikon for it already, as it will be competing against two 700's with loopholes.

Wow, that is a heck of a first post....
I really don't mean to be condescending... Your questions strike me as someone who really doesn't shoot much, or have a grasp on competitve match shooting. This ties to your questions in your reference to your "Target Grade Rifles". If you want a bone stock Savage, light barrel to match up with a $1200 McMillen target gun; It won't.

Recoil lug bedding: some do behind, some all of it.
Can you tape off the nut: Of course you can. How much bedding support you want is the only question.
Lapping the Lugs: The whole point of the Savage Floating Bolt Head is that IF things aren't perfect, it adjusts, and becomes so.
How good is the crown/ 11 Degree: I doubt that the crown difference would make any difference to you.
Barrel break-in: This is completely personal. They way Savage does rifling, is inherently NOT a method that induces much tool marking. the rifling is "Ironed in" Not cut. I've never understood why people would want to clean a rifle smooth, instead of shooting.
Loads: Again, rifle specific. Sierra and Nosler publish accuracy loads and hunting loads in there literature.

This gun will be running fire formed brass and neck sized, all brass with in 1 thousands,The bullets will be with in 1 tenth of a grain, and charged with a RCBS trickle charger. When I get done with it rest assured , it will do at least a 1/2 inch or better at a 100 yards. If I can make a military barrel mauser's shoot a average of 1/2 at 100 and one will do 1/4 at 200 yards in 8mm. The savage will sure to be scary and just mite make the panda run and hide. ;D The 700's boys want the best of the west 168 vld loadings, mine will be more like a 308. As I do have better places to spend my money then on a barrel every 1000 rounds.
As for the McMillen I beat one 2 years ago in competition, as he came in 9th or 10th and I place 4th with one of my custom military mausers, and my friend took 1st that day with his custom military mauser. And we all know the Savage is far superior in tolerances then any war built mauser, the 1/2 inch or better is not even a real challenge. I am just looking for advice and proven accuracy techniques for the 110 that will save me some time and headaches.
Any gun can shoot great, it is just how much time you are willing to invest in it.

Any gun can shoot great, it is just how much time you are willing to invest in it.[/quote]
Not true not true I had a rem. 700 bdl with a hogue fully aluminium bedded stock, timiney trigger leupold scope and mounts broke in the old fashion way 1 shot at a time for 10 then 5 at a time for 40 then no more than 10 before cleaning and that gun even after 2 return trips to the factory would not shoot better than 3.5 in@100 with match grade or handloads.
Oh by the way Rem. said it was within specs.

Thats sad!!! Did you ever gauge head space on it? or slug the bore? yourself? It is sad but true that sometimes a ugly one gets out from all. I seen others with the same issues. When sent in they said it was in spec. But after gauging the head space was almost max spec, the chamber was obviously cut with a fresh reamer and the barrel too. After adjusting head space to a nice tight chamber and fire forming the brass to the oversized chamber and a strict diet of hornady, and got it down to a inch,( IT WAS 2 ). We did a floated barrel and had flyers so did a full bed and it loved it. We lapped the lugs and scope rings just for good measure. She was a good shooter after all that, it would average 1/2 to 3/4 at a 100, but it took alot of time and a little cash for the gauges and bedding, and a lot of aspirin. ::)

I have to disagree here also. I had a Mauser action, custom trigger, Shilen barrel, custom stock that was glass bedded, everything trued and timed in 6mm-284. Three gunsmiths, 50 plus hand loads, and many other tweeks later, still 1.5"-2" accuracy at 100 yards. This was across three shooters that spent several trips to the range each. It happens. My Savage Model 16 with a factory barrel set back and re-chambered from 223 to 221 Fireball shoots 1/2" at 100 every day. You never know.

I know what was wrong with that mauser. I do not rip on any manufacture, But I will say a bore scope would have revealed your problem.

Your 7mm Mag will be capable of sub 1 inch groups to be sure. Will it be capable of 1/2 inch or less? Only load development, glass bedding and bench time will show if thats consistantly" possible. It's your rifle and your decision how much time and money you want to spend on it.

Tom

GaCop

I know what your saying is so true. The 7 mag is a pretty good inherently accurate cartridge. I was hoping to get some tips on the bedding techniques and other tips to help set her up. My friend who used Savages in competition and how to set them up, died last year of cancer. I wish I would have had sometime to talk with him and pull apart one of his as a guide for mine. He swore a Savage with a accutrigger and a good load would pull off 3/4 or better off the shelf, He loved his Savage rifles. But I know of nobody who has set one up.

Anyways, from what I have found on the net and here, I will float the tang. And bed the rear ring and along the magazine and front ring and recoil lug and barrel under the chamber. I will double tape the tang, the front, bottom and sides of the lug and the teeth of the barrel nut. I will put a couple of drops of compound on the lugs and cycle a few hundred times. Put the Nikon on her and a light target load for 20 or 30 rounds and then step it up. I am looking forward to shooting this rifle and there are a few friends that are watching closely too.