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I've only performed one barrel swap so far and I noticed that no matter what I tried, the barrel would thread in a little farther when I tightened the barrel nut. Is it safe to leave the go-gauge chambered to stop the barrel from moving during the barrel nut torqueing?
I didn't want to just rely on index marks. What do you guys use for keeping the barrel in place while mounting?
I use vice grips with a piece of leather in the jaw so it doesn't booger up the barrel. Push the opposite direction on the vice grip while tightening the barrel nut.
Also, I found there's no need to make it gorilla tight. Remember: you might want to take it back off again some day...
Happy barrel changing.
What tools are you using? I have found a few things when I was dealing with minimal tooling. After getting the headspace where I want it(usually against the go gauge for me). I index mark the action/lug and the barrel to the best of my ability. Using the .050 linear movement per rotation constant, I figure that 45* of rotation has linear movement of I smidgen over .006. So I would back my barrel off of the gauge a fraction of that 1/8th turn and smack the nut wrench with a rubber mallet. And compare the match marks again. I repeat that process and use your gauge to verify. Most factory ammo is going to prefer you to be close to the middle of the tolerance, possibly more to the large side.
Currently a barrel vise and an action wrench makes everything much more precise.
Stangfish - I have the Wheeler action wrench that I mounted in a vise. I was thinking that I would index mark the barrel where it stops against the go-gauge and then remove the gauge and tighten to torque and measure the offset between the indexes. Then stage the barrel with that offset prior to tightening. In theory, the index marks should line up. But I was hoping to be able to do this some other way. Will it damage something to leave the gauge in?
BTW... this is for a 20 VarTarg barrel.
I think fgw has a good idea, and better yet is a barrel clamp mounted on a bench.
I put a piece of tape on the go gauge then close the bolt and run the barrel up until it touches the gauge and hand tighten the nut. Remove the gauge and give the nut wrench one smack with the dead blow hammer. Check headspace, done.
SGTJ, I always do it but I never do it when the bolt is against the gauge. Me with the barrel in a vise an action wrench in one hand and a mallet in the other it is not a problem. My concern with having the gauge against the boldface is mushrooming in the chamber at the neck transition. Probably will never happen but working on close tolerance fits everyday it goes against my mindset. Everyone here is showing you there are a many ways to remove the protective layer of a feline. All effective and just variations of the same theme.
Lots of good information! I just placed a huge order for all my parts. Need the donor action still. And a long back order on my stock and then I'll be in business!
i do mine on the gauge itself, and have always done them with a hard blow from a rubber mallet, however, i will be refining that technique, to something a little more gorilla strong. I recently went on a 14 mile pack trip for a week and stuffed my 24" octagon mcgowen 25-06 in the scabbard and during the middle of the week i found myself screwing the bbl back down on a empty brass and using a small set of channel locks on the nut. disappointing to say the least and embarrassing with future father in law and grandpa in law judging your equiptment/build. haha all good now, now i will have it sent out to gain an ackley chamber.
I've only ever had one tighten up, normally the headspace will increase .001"-.002" when the threads are tensioned.
I turn the barrel in until it bottoms on the gauge, snug the nut by hand just tight enough to take up the slack but allow the action and or barrel be turned. Then I recheck and tweak it if necessary then and finish tightening the nut.
I never really figured out why the one tightened up. Common sense would say the nut pulls the barrel away from the bolthead increasing the headspace. After maybe a month or so I ripped it apart, squared the ring, the nut face and replaced the lug then it acted normal. :p
LOL Why?Quote:
i will be refining that technique, to something a little more gorilla strong.
http://i42.tinypic.com/2hz7sli.jpg
The rear entry wrench and the opened ended spanner are the only tools I use to install barrels. No hammers, pipe wrenches yadda, yadda....
I wrap one hand around the T handle the other on the spanner then use a grunt to a grunt and a half.
I can't say iif ts tight enough, I haven't had any come loose yet to find out.:p
Bill
I've only ever done one - a 20 Vartarg build. Both common sense and experience had the headspace increasing when the nut was tightened, and I did tighten it with the go gauge in place. Had noticeable resistance on the final quarter closure of the bolt which relaxed very slightly as the nut was tightened. I did this a few times until I had just that bit of resistance after the nut was tightened, but keep in mind that I will never shoot factory ammo in this rifle.
Billpa - where do you get the rear entry wrench and open ended spanner?
I made both. The rear entry wench was a left over from my Rem switch barrel days and I just cut the end of the spanner just enough to clear the barrel shank. I use them for two reasons. One, I can swap barrels without removing the scope/mounts and two, I can swap them almost anywhere, even on a bench at the range if I want.Quote:
Originally Posted by sgt_jamez
BTW, I don't use them to pull factory installed barrels. I use this setup for those.
http://i33.tinypic.com/3ggat.jpg
Bill
When I first started fiddling with these rifles several years ago, I had the honor of meeting Mrs. Moreo at their shop and I asked her what the torque value was on the barrel nut. She advised there was no torque value and to just snug the barrel nut. I asked what she meant by snug and she replied that she meant just snug, not tight. I have always firmly "snugged" the nut by hand with a barrel nut wrench and without any mallet, etc. when doing a swap. Have never had one break loose and it makes them so much easier to break loose next time. I do the scotch tape method on the go gauge for a no-go, as Smokey262 eluded to above. It works fine. Hope this helps and good luck with your project.