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I need to dremel out a little and apply epoxy where the green arrows are and tape off and clean up by the red X's. Do I have that right? Have people bedded these stocks with any success?
[img width=600 height=450]http://www.thehousebmx.com/arfcom/IMG_6241.jpg[/img]
just apply a little release agent to the areas you have x-d out. The epoxy will stay put pretty much as long as you dont overdo it. The little bit that rolls over the edges can easily be chipped of with a small chisel or screwdriver and a light tap or two. I drilled a few small holes in each of the piers for a little extra grip and removed maybe a 16th or so all around the pillers so the epxy would have a place to go and to ensure metal to metal contact at the pillars. Did a couple of the tupperware stocks with good results.
Here are a couple of pics of my Stevens 200 tupperware and Davcon. I hope this helps.
[img width=600 height=450]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/davemuzz/DSC00583.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/davemuzz/DSC00582.jpg[/img]
BTW......the "Glorp" can be cleaned up with a Dremmel for a professional looking job. I did clean mine up at a later date. You know, when one of my shootin buddies made way too much fun of the "glorp". ;D
Walk directly to the closest trash can and throw it away and then order a B&C stock.
I put a wire brush on a cordless drill and roughed up where your arrows are then drilled 1/8 holes. Put playdough putty where you have x's, taped up the trigger assembly. Mine turned out well for the first try. Nothing complicated about it. If $$ tight, like around my house, I stay away from the trash can ;)
I have done a Stevens 200 stock with good results too. Look at it this way, bedding practice may as well occur on a cheap stock instead of the $400 one
As previously mentioned removing some plastic is a good idea. The finish you leave should be rough for good adhesion. I went crazy with a gouge chisel and it has held up just fine.
I noticed you didn't run any devcon along the edges of the magazine. I actually got about 1/8" width in that area also. I was glad I did, but I can't prove it made any difference. It was a real effort with play-do to keep the magazine area clear.
I also took some fiberglas strips and laid about 3-4 layers along the insides of the stock on the sides near the magazine to try and make it stiffer.
Basically my fliers decreased and the outcome became more consistent. However, when I moved to a flat-bottom benchrest stock, things got another step better.
Every step makes a bit of improvement.
What did you have setting in that BR stock ? Factory stuff ?Quote:
Originally Posted by docsleepy
I don't think it would be worth the effort (and this is just my opinion....and my opinion and $5 will get you a coffee at Starbucks!!!) to bed along the magazine. I think it's more important to have a solid contact at the action screws, and the back of the recoil lug (there should be free space below the lug and in front of the lug).Quote:
Originally Posted by docsleepy
I can tell you that after bedding with Davcon (the peanut butter consistency type), the rifle has held much tighter groups.
FWIW
Dave
I'm confused, I always thought the pillars were to be in contact with the action and the bedding was to make up for any area around the action that did not seat completely flush. The above pictures appear to show quite a bit of bedding covering the pillars????? In this case must agree with Galveston 22. Quick
You can see on the front pillar that there is an ever so small "piece" of the pillar that is peering out from the Davcon. On the rear pillar, the picture does not show, but "in person" you can see the pillar through a very thin layer of Davcon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickshot
While I will agree with you that the action "should always contact" the pillar, sometimes with these tupperware stocks, "always" and "actual" are not the same. The pillar on my stock in the front was recessed every so slightly, and the rear pillar was raised, but you probably could measure it in quarter-thousands.
However, rather than simply "toss it into the round bin" as Galveston 22 suggest, (Some guys have unlimited budgets.....and if so, I wonder why they even would mess with a Stevens 200 ???) for the price of bedding the stock, I thought it was worth a try.
I found that once bedded, the stock and receiver (I torqued it to factory spec's of 25 in\lbs) when tightened, matched very well and the groups shrank to under MOA. Well.....I couldn't argue with that....especially for the price.
Remember....keep the tang free floating. I didn't mess with the mag well at all.
And if you have any tupperware stocks that have the pillars a tad below the plastic......just send me a PM and I'll gladly reimburse you the shipping cost to send 'em to me. ;D ;)
Dave
Sorta. I took a savage short action, put a SHilen pre-fit 6PPC (.270 neck) on it, changed boltface to PPC, and put it in a benchrest type stock. Learning leaps and bounds. I still have the original accutrigger, which I think is now the most error-inducing part (have to work very very hard to keep the rifle from moving when pull triggger dry firing). The action is not trued, but the cases are now fairly tight after some fireforming and putting them in same way each time, think I have most of the advantage. The shilen barrel has much less POI impact change with charge changes and also appears to foul less. I cannot swear that it is any more accurate, because I think much of the improvement comes from the stock and the better case fit from higher power charges.Quote:
Originally Posted by possum1
Nice,
I may do my model 11.
How did you keep epoxy out of the screw holes - I really dont want to lock my action down!
Also, my stock (package rifle) has a series of triangular holes under the bedding area beneath the receiver ring?
For the triangular holes, just fill 'em up with a wood putty and apply a healthy coating of your release agent. (I used KIWI Shoe polish)
For the action screw holes, I went to my local hardware store and just bought some "stud" screws that on one side had the same TPI as the action screws. Then, as you can see from the picture, I wrapped 'em in a tape, then again applied the KIWI shoe polish for a release agent. When the Davcon dried I just un-screwed the stud screws with using a double nut on the extended thread.
If that all made sense.....it was actually pretty easy.
[img width=600 height=450]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/davemuzz/DSC00584.jpg[/img]
Yes, but my preference is for the action not to contact the pillars. I prefer there to be a small gap right above the pillar so that the screw pulls the action into the stock. If the pillar represents a high spot in the bedding, which it can easily do with metal expansion during hot/cold cycles, the action will rock about to the detriment of accuracy. The pillar is only there to keep the stock material from compressing under the screw, or breaking in the case of the plastic stocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickshot
Otherwise, bedding material over the pillars is fine, unless it is too thin and will crack away right above the pillar, and create that gap anyway...I just mill it down after the bedding sets.
TC