If I had to purchase one manual to rule them all. Which one would it be?
Also what load would you suggest for .308 24in heavy barrel 1/10twist. I am getting into long range precision shooting.
thanks
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If I had to purchase one manual to rule them all. Which one would it be?
Also what load would you suggest for .308 24in heavy barrel 1/10twist. I am getting into long range precision shooting.
thanks
The Hornady manual is a good one. Sierra is another. Lyman manual is good too. If you have a bullet in mind you may want to buy that brand's manual.
I have been happy with the 155 A-Max over Varget in my 10 twist 308 Savage barrel. 1/2 MOA is the norm for it. I have shot it out to 500 yards and I am happy with it. If I was going to go farther I would look at the 175 SMK or perhaps the 208 A-Max. Many people shoot the 308 way past what I am, but for me there are better choices out there and so I don't take my 308 farther, and around my area 500 is about as far as I could safely go.
Sierra 5th Edition. Used lot's of Savages in their testing.
One is never enough. I think which manual depends a lot on the level of experience of the reloader. For someone just starting out I would recommend they read Modern reloading by Richard Lee from the front cover all the way up to where the data starts. For an experienced loader I like the Nosler manual and the Sierra manual. Both have good accuracy data that works well as a starting point for load development.
Those are my picks anyway.
Lyman's 49th & the Hodgdon Annual Manual are my references here. I usually start accuracy test loading about 1/2 to 1 grain over the Lyman minimum. Depending on the size of the case.
Figure out the calibers you shoot in--then go to the bigger gun stores and look at the various manuals from all the manufacturers (chances are they will have some of the manuals unwrapped). Chances are--you'll eventually settle on a particular bullet that your weapon's barrel favors. Then it's a matter of developing loads which no manual is going to be able to tell you what works best for your particular rifle--but that's part of why it's so much fun and rewarding hand-loading yourself. Lyman's is good because it gives a good preface of safety ethics for reloading in general--but I also like Berger because of their "outside the box" suggestions for reloads that go beyond the SAAMI specs. It's not the affordable route--but just buy em all--which is what I did.
Then, after you spent all your money on the books and reload tables--you may ask yourself "what's the best software I should get?" : )
For starting out the Lee "Modern Reloading" as Big Honkin' Jeep suggested is a good all around. I have 2 different editions and they are great for quick reference. I keep one in my bedroom for those late evening "I wonder...." kind of thoughts.
So I was looking at all the suggestions and looking at materials. I guess gunpowder and primers are as hard to get as good ammo. I feel like there is someone out there that doesn't want me to shoot anymore. *Insert sarcastic laugh*
It's kinda like the illicit drug trade--you have to seek out your dealers and be ready to buy fast when you hear about "the stuff" becoming available as it may go fast. : ) The problem is many people buy out everything a dealer has once they find what they want since they fear it may be difficult to find in the future (aka hoarding)--thus the perpetual cycle of difficulty of finding anything.
These are handy, all the information for one caliber at your fingertips.
http://www.loadbooks.com/Store.html
When I started I used Speer's reloading manual. It came with the kit I bought.
I have Sierra, 3 Hornadys, LEE, Nosler,and several older ones. I use the Hornady most as I use their bullets a lot. Next would be the Sierra 5th edtion and last the Nosler. The Nosler loads seem to be a lot lower than the others. The Lee has a lot of information. I have a shelf of manuls and still use all of them once in a while. I have been loading since 1965 so I have gathered a lot information.
I try to use the data from the bullet maker first then the powder company. As a new reloader make sure you follow the instructions to the letter. Start with starting loads and work up from there, some guys will tell you different, don't listen. I just had an experience with a factory rifle that the starting load turned out to be near maximum and factory ammo was too hot. It had to do with the throat design in an older rifle.
If I wanted to go long with the .308 the first bullet I would try would be the 208 grain Amax, you can keep it supersonic past 1000 yards in the .308.
Bob
I agree on the Modern Reloading by Richard Lee.. I also keep the Lyman at hand. I probably have 12 different loading manuals on the bench, and I use the manufacturers website loading data as well. If you decide to buy the Modern Reloading by Lee, get it at Midwayusa.com as it is quite a bit cheaper there than anywhere else I have found it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bootsmcguire
Once you have the bug, you can't have too many manuals. But you can't get better than "FREE"! hodgdon.com-or any other on line site.
I shot sub 5/8 " groups this morning ( two at .5 ) using Speer 33 gr HP , 12.5 gr Lil Gun in my 340E .22 Hornet with 4x Challenger scope at 50 yrs with 4-6 mph gusting wind, up hill and my ever trusty Speer reloading manual ... what can one from Idaho say about CCI/Speer you ask ? the #14 is great and they are not just stuck on Speer bullets ( just the others may or may not shoot as well or better under the same conditions ) .. Thanks Mark and especally Allan !!! And someone told me this gun cannot shoot very well . next stop, the 100 yrd targets and bigger scope so I can see it ha ha .
Loaddata.com. 25 bucks a year gets you access to pretty much every manual available and every powder manufactures data. You can search by caliber and bullet weight. Also has all the data from the guys at rifle and hand loading magazine with all their data compiled when testing various firearms. Also has great articles on there. Spend an extra 7 bucks and you get a load data binder to print out the loads you find and make your own manual.
Decide what bullet your going to shoot first and then buy that manufactures book.
Best advice I can give after owning over 10 different books. It will save you time and money.