I have a mod 12 fcv in 223, How difficult is to change the barrel? Could I change calibers? If so, how do I find out what I need to change. I like the 223 so far but everthing I'm seeing says 6br is the caliber.
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I have a mod 12 fcv in 223, How difficult is to change the barrel? Could I change calibers? If so, how do I find out what I need to change. I like the 223 so far but everthing I'm seeing says 6br is the caliber.
With a couple of tools and go-no go gauges the barrel and caliber change is a snap. to go to 6mm br you'll probably need to change your bolt face, others can clear that up.
You can do a seach on barrel change and you will get plenty of information.
The level of difficulty is directly affected by the individual mechanical abilities. If you do your own auto mechanic work at home then you should be able to do this work... It takes between 10 to 15 minutes if you know what your are doing... The biggest problem you might find is getting the barrel nut loosen up as it is torqued by a silverback gorilla at savage... lol!
In a nutshelf you will need.
new barrel
new barrel nut (in most cases you can reuse the one you just took off)
new bolthead for new caliber if not the same family of the 223 bolthead.
Go and No Go gauges (some will tell you those are not necesary)
barrel nut wrench
either a barrel vise or an action tool.
do a search, there is plenty to read and learn about the process.
Thanks. I have confidence that it is well within my mechanical ability. I did some reading about the headspacing and there seems to be a few different schools of thought on that. [I] think the go gauge sounds like the way to do it. My barrel nut is smooth, is there a trick to that?leather strapping and a pipe wrench, I think it would be wise to replace it with the notched nut. If a gunsmith will change it for $25 that"s kinda of a no brainer for me.
The only con to the go gauge is the expense and for many people the headspacing is done once. I also think that the gauges are the way to go.
Most remove the smooth barrel nut with a pipe wrench without any regard to the nut appearance as most no one will reuse it. Aftermarket barrel nuts are cut a lot better than the oem and worth the extra money. If you get the savage bug you will end up changing more barrels that you might think right now so the barrel nut investment is good. You can always sell it later here if you wish. If you decide to do the change yourself you have good support here. Read, read, read, ask any questions then go for it. Good luck.
I guess rather than starting a new thread I'll put this here, since it's germane: do you use action grease/anti-seize when switching barrels?
It is always better to start your own thread for your own Questions.
I dont see it necessary to add nothing to the threads other than loctite in the barrel nut if you want to keep the headspace set on the barrel once you remove it. You don't have to torque the barrel back like the savage gorilla does...
I only use anti-seize when its SS to SS otherwise a light wetting of most any oil will do. Just clean and lightly wet the threads and nut face.Quote:
Originally Posted by din
Also, clean the lug recesses, abutments and bolt lugs before installing the barrel. Any crud can/will affect setting the headspace.
Bill
Don't sell your 223 short. I have it and 6br and my 223 Hog Hunter in Choate stock shoots great . Unless going for longer distances you may not need to change calibers.
OP, you might be interested in this video I made. Here I am installing a barrel onto my stevens 200.. n00b mistake included!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1Okf...1ogU4c&index=2
You need a real workbench Jimbo...LOL
Tell me about it, lol. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by stangfish