"Sticky" Bolt Movement on my Stevens

So I cannot operate my Stevens 200 bolt like I want to.

You know how when you watch someone who really knows how to operate a bolt and it's just *snap* *snap* *BANG!*? I'd like to get that good but, it seems there's just too much friction between the bolt body and the rear part of the receiver. I wanted to see if this is a common issue or not. No amount of lube seems to help. Haven't tried any greases yet but perhaps I should. Mostly it is when ejecting a spent case that my extraction stroke will just "hang" and stop. I have to ease the bolt out the rest of the way. It doesn't matter if there is a case in or not.

Also I put one of SSS's tactical bolt knobs on but suspect that it adds too much of a moment arm, causing the extra friction. I really hope not because I love that add-on.

I've also eliminated the lugs of the bolt head in the channel as another source of friction. Can someone help? Thanks!

-THM

Mine also did that when I put my bolthandle on. I believe when you open up the bolthandle the corner of it is just causing too much friction where it rides the rear baffle. I'd try slightly rounding the edge of the bolthandle in that area(slightly). I'm thinking the handle may have been formed just a tad oversized cause I switched mine out to another handle(same kind) and it doesnt do it.

Good luck, had a different issue on one of mine with similar symptoms

check the mag
the lips to high dragging on the bolt or the follower having a lot of pressure? stock well to shallow pushing the mag box?

also the front & rear action screw's thread onto the bolt travel area. loosen them a turn and see if the resistance goes away. if it dose you need to grind, file or cut the screw down a thread.

So I'm to understand that my condition is not normal. That's good I suppose in that there's probably a solution

Avenger, I'll check those things.

pdog, I didn't quite understand your reply. The resistance is felt when moving the bolt rearward, not rotating it up and disengaging the lugs, which your reply (unless I'm way off) seemed to address. Thanks for your willingness to help!

-THM

Like Blue Avenger said check the mag lips, I removed mine; because I changed over to 223, and that is one thing I noticed, the bolt was a tad smoother. That has always been my gripe with the savge though bolts not really smooth, not that it matters shooting bench.

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Originally Posted by treehuggermugger

pdog, I didn't quite understand your reply. The resistance is felt when moving the bolt rearward, not rotating it up and disengaging the lugs, which your reply (unless I'm way off) seemed to address. Thanks for your willingness to help!

-THM

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Sorry bout that. I wasnt sure so I figured I'd throw it out there since I had that happen to me.

Make sure you are not binding the action. If the tang isnt free floated and you tighten down the rear action screw, depending on how much it hits the Tang it could bind the action somewhat and cause the bolt to be harder to slide. Loosening the rear screw will tell you if that is hapening.

Or maybe one or both of the action screw are a tad too long and riding the bolt.

My black FP bolt is nowhere near as smooth rearward as my 2 chrome bolts. I think it is the coating. Try a little oil.

My vote is that the mag lips are contacting the bolt if it's a staggerfeed. I swapped to a centerfeed LA to get rid of that problem!

So I pulled the action out of the stock and the problem persists, eliminating the mag and the action screws. It is a chrome bolt (stock Stevens 200).

Most notable resistance is trying to push forward when the bold head is in the rear baffle. I'll try a bit of grease, but I really think that there's just too much friction there, plus the bolt is able to wiggle a bit too much when it's that far back.

Thanks guys. I still love this rifle, and this is the only real problem I have with it.

I briefly read your article but not as well as I should...It sounds as though the operation of the bolt when being cycled is "gritty". I have a magnum action and you talk about a rough machine job when looking inside. Has anybody ever tried using lapping compound on the raceways and other possible rough spots?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by treehuggermugger

Most notable resistance is trying to push forward when the bold head is in the rear baffle. I

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I'm not clear what your saying. Do you mean when the bolt pushed all the way forward and the bolt handle contacts the rear baffle its the point its hard to close and when rotating the bolt open does it appears to hard opening at the same or close to the same point?

Bill

Bill, I had the same thought as you at first but I think he's speaking of the operation of the bolt on the actual extraction of the shell itself(cycling). For any of those interested about the spring tension and lift there sure is quite the discussion going on about that at the moment in a post. Could the user of the orginal post be a bit more in depth as I am not quite sure myself what exactly your asking. Also, again I've heard of people polishing the inside of the actions along with lapping them with compound...curious to hear of personal experiences of to or not to do.