Printable View
Im planning on bedding my 116 into a Stockade stock and could use some help i have gotten everything off the action except for the outer box of the internal mag. i relieved plenty of area around the magazine in the stock and my plan is to tape up the magazine around all four sides and the bottom when i bed it.
In theory it should still be floated after all is said and done right?
I was planning on taking it off but i cant for the life of me figure out how it comes off
push from the back with a wide flat screwdriver and it should pop out of the slot in the action. dont try to take it out from the side you will mess up the box!!!!
I just popped the back lower corner (furthest from the action, side closest to the trigger) with a mallet and it popped right off on mine. Had to use a mallet and a screwdriver to pop it back in.
but would anything bad come from me bedding like i proposed
I leave mine in place....just tape it up, plug the gaps where it joins the receiver with modeling clay and coat it with release agent or shoe polish. Any bedding epoxy that runs down into the mag opening in the stock I clean up with a pointed rotary rasp later.
I have another question the bedding instructions say i should remove any paint, so should i remove the primer that came on the stockade stock in the area that i will bed?
http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8f70ac7e.jpg
and you should tape the front sides and bottom of the recoil lug correct ?
Yep and the barrel nut. I usually remove about 1/8 inch of material around the pillars just to make sure you have a good epoxy bed + drill some 7/64 holes about 1/8 deep in the same areas to anchor the epoxy.
Put some modeling clay in the action screw holes and coat the screws with lots of release agent.....that way when you set the action in the bedding epoxy and tighten the screws you don't have to worry about locking up the action screws. Don't ask me how I know this.:frusty:
what about removing the primer on the bedding areas and im using headless action screws so still use puddy around them ?
Not sure what you mean by "headless " action screws.....all mine are 5/32 hex round heads ( 1/4 x 28 TPI).
I'd strip off the paint.....looks kind of flaky anyways from the pix.
Put the putty in the screw holes in the receiver.....that way when you lay it in the wet epoxy and start the action screws no epoxy can lock up the threads. If you coat the action screws with lots of release agent the epoxy won't stick to them even if some gets into the pillars.
They're guide screws....Quote:
Originally Posted by palerider338
http://i50.tinypic.com/nl5qtk.jpg
1/4-28 bolts with heads cut off. I don't "Pull" actions into the bedding. It tends to reproduce the same fit error(s) I'm trying to eliminate. An action should set in the bedding totally unstressed the same as when it is out of it. Coat the bolt threads and shanks with release. They'll turn out after the bedding goop cures then open the holes to 5/16" for action screw shank clearance.
Oh, you'll probably find some foam on the face of the stock recoil lug shoulder. Scrape it off to reveal the aluminum underneath it.
Bill
so after i finished the bedding, the amount of material was enough that the rear action screw can only screw about 1 turn into the action before being to tight.
Is that enough ?
if not can i use a longer bolt/screw?
or do i have to remove the bedding and do it all over again ?
that action mates your stock perfectly now... Go with the longer screw.
Bill.. I went a different route.. I screwed the pillars onto the action and seated everything at once..
That's the correct way.Quote:
Originally Posted by scythefwd
If I'm installing pillars I always attach the to the action then glue them in and bed the action at the same time. If the pillars are already there or its just bedding then I use the guide screws.
Its why I say I bed a stock to an action, not an action to a stock!
Bill
.