Help: Bedding Conundrum

I can't figure this one out. I have bedded 4 savage rifles and 5 Remington's. I checked my rifles with a dial indicator and all my Remington's have .001 or less movement when loosening and tightening both action screws. My savage rifles all have .001 or less movement when I loosen the rear action screw with the front tight. However when it have both tight and loosen the front I have allot of movement on every single gun. They all were beded the same way as the Remington's, is there something special about bedding a savage?

Why would it matter, do you shoot your rifles with loose screws?

I JUST bedded my savage this weekend. I skim bedded the sides of the action next to the magwell as well.. I get no discernable movmement, with scews in the action, or with no screws in the action. Hell, its so tight in the stock, I can hold the rifle upside down without action screws and it stays in place. How is the bedding around the recoil lug? The front action screw pretty much just seats the lug into the recess in the stock.

Now, my bedding job is UGLY, but its solid. Have yet to actually try and shoot her though.. I lost the trigger pin retention clip when I was trying to reassemble.. so I have to get one before I put her back together.

[QUOTE=scythefwd;174839]Why would it matter, do you shoot your rifles with loose screws?
How is the bedding around the recoil lug? The front action screw pretty much just seats the lug into the recess in the stock.

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Incorrect bedding matters allot. All the gurus say .002 or less is acceptable. The have been bedded from the lug to the rear action screw with tang floated. Just wondering why all my Savage rifles fail the test on the front action screw and not the rear?

[QUOTE=jsthntn247;174848]

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Originally Posted by scythefwd

Why would it matter, do you shoot your rifles with loose screws?
How is the bedding around the recoil lug? The front action screw pretty much just seats the lug into the recess in the stock.

QUOTE]

Incorrect bedding matters allot. All the gurus say .002 or less is acceptable. The have been bedded from the lug to the rear action screw with tang floated. Just wondering why all my Savage rifles fail the test on the front action screw and not the rear?

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I definitley understand where you're comming from. I dont get any discernable movment on mine.. but that doesnt mean I'm not in that .003 - .005 range.. I dont have a runout guage to check. The issue you're running into is obviously related to the front half of the action and the bedding there. I'd not expect much bedding compound on the sides around the mag well hole (mine is so thin there that its see through and wont show even in pics from an 8mp camera). Are there any deformaties in and around the front action screw or around the lug? Even if your area round the front action screw isnt well and good, if the recoil lug is bedded in good and tight, I'd not expect to see any real movement.

I dont know how thick electrical tape is, but thats what I lined my lug with (only the outside).. and thats all the movement I could see...

I'm at work and can't see if there are pics on this thread.. would you be so kind as to post pics if you haven't already of the bedding job? I'd love to see another users job.. Mine is ugly as hell, but I think it will work extremely well.

Just looked it up, electrical tape is supposedly around 1mm thick.. so I'm already WAY over for tolerance if that is what I'm relying on...

I am going to check tonight and see if the trigger guard screw could possible be throwing the measurement off. If that doesn't fix it I will try and skim bed the front lug area only on the 223 and see if that works.

no worries about the new bedding compound not bonding to the older bedding compound?

Just wondering on that one.. maybe even some drilling through the old bedding to give it better purchase?

I plan on scuffing it up and drilling a few holes in it. I've been thinking all day about what could be causing my problems and can't think of what the difference is.

Just curious, a. Are the barrels still attached for your tests? b. Screw spacing and location the same on a Remington and Savage?

Later, Brad

I think the issue has to do with the free floated tang on most bedded savages.

If you think about it, the rear action screw is not fully into the bedding, so it would be very easy for this 'pull' the rear of the action down when the front action screw is loosened or removed. I wouldn't be concerned about it.

When ever I installed the action in the bedded stock, I would just make sure to torque the front action screw, then the rear screw.

Sean

thats an interesting though sean.. it would be differnet, where you bed the tang of the rem (and therefore fully supporting the action around the rear screw).

I made it up as I went along. It seems likely to me though.

Checking bedding with a dial indicator is Remington technology....it does not apply to a Savage.

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

Checking bedding with a dial indicator is Remington technology....it does not apply to a Savage.

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Why is this sharpshooter? How do you check bedding?

After reading all of these posts, I guess the lingering question in my mind is, no matter how much movement there is, how does it shoot?

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Originally Posted by bootsmcguire

After reading all of these posts, I guess the lingering question in my mind is, no matter how much movement there is, how does it shoot?

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This is the best question of all!!

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Originally Posted by bootsmcguire

After reading all of these posts, I guess the lingering question in my mind is, no matter how much movement there is, how does it shoot?

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Outshoots my custom 3000 dollar remington regularly.

I don't know the tolerance on my bedding job but mine will do the same movement. I was a little hesitant but since developing loads in this 110 .270 factory lightweight barrel gun I have a load shooting .75" 3 shot groups at 100 (sierra)and had a load I tested Sunday with barnes 130 gr shoot two groups under .5" 3 shot. My concerns are over now. It's shooting great and I'm not looking any farther into it