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Is there anyone on this forum that would have an idea how the factory sets the head space on the production rifle's ? I don't understand most of the procedure but I'm slowly trying to learn. There is just two way's to do it ? Using the gauge's or a fired cartridge. Trying to decide which procedure I want to go with.
They use standard go and no go gages, the precision made gages are the way to go, FWIW this and the Nut are the reasons you can pull 100 savages in the same caliber off the shelf and their headspace will all measure the same, Whereas out of 100 Remington you are apt to find 1-2 that let the bolt close completely on a NO GO , I have seen two, both were brand new 700 SPS's one in 22-250 and one in 223 ::)
Fired cases can vary. Headspace guages usually don't. Fired cases usually work. For $30-$40 I perfer the safety factor and peace of mind of a good go-gauge. Some scotch tape or a small piece of shim stock turns a go-gauge into a no-go-gauge. There are people who have been swapping barrels for a lot longer than I who have never seen a go-gauge and most of them still have all their fingers. It's pretty much your choice.
I seriously doubt that the Savage factory uses fired cases to headspace new rifles.....but I could be wrong.
uj
Use the gauges. They won't crush down as a fired case can. BTW, too much is made of head space. If it's too short, a factory round won't chamber. If it's too long, it stretches the brass a little. It really has to be grossly long to cause any trouble, and even then, no one is going to "lose fingers". That's just what they tell newbies to scare 'um!
One thing I've noticed fired cases from my steven's have hardly any stretch at all compared to my single shot. have to trim them every time.
No question about it, the factory uses proper gauges! there are also checked more then once.Quote:
Originally Posted by possum1
This is a short video, but it's Savages own. Hope it helps. I posted a thread about this and everyone says their guage is a "Go" guage.
http://savagearms.com/accuracy/headspacecontrol/
I saw a .338/06 that had blown the magazine floorplate completely out, bent the feed rails and sent stock splinters flying, the barrel was head spaced without the recoil lug installed so when it was put back together the headspace was way too deep. I was told the owner made a trip to the ER for removal of metal fragments and wood splinters. It's worth being careful !Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk
Bob
Bob T, there has to be more to that story. ??? He put the barrel on with no recoil lug and set the headspace, then removed the barrel and put the recoil lug on and didn't set the headspace. ::) I presume this was after the cocktail hour. ;D
Seriously, I believe you are saying the headspace was .25 too long. I am surprised the case didn't drop so far into the chamber that the firing pin could hit it.
Check this link out, http://www.accurateshooter.com/forum...3739910.0.html
what??????????? dont get it??????????????? unless no recoil lug when fired? i dont understand? 8) ddQuote:
Originally Posted by BobT
That is pretty much what happened, set the headspace with no lug then put the recoil lug back on and tightened up the barrel. This was a 700 Remington with a factory lug that had been ground flat so it wasn't quite that thick. The guy that did this doesn't drink so I don't think it was post cocktail, I just think his head was somewhere dark! I'm really surprised the thing didn't fall too far into the chamber to fire but I guess it got under the extractor when fed in to the chamber and that held it enough to fire the round.Quote:
Originally Posted by bsekf
Bob
possum1 - the video that handirifle posted up for you is a great example of how a rifle is headspaced. about a year ago I bought my very first savage (a 111 30-06) and re-barreled it to 308 win. I spent close to a month reading through this forum to make sure I wasn't going to blow my wonderful, new savage apart when I shot it (personal well-being came second :)
Bottom line is that you should go with a go gauge. MidwayUSA.com has forsters in the $22 range and up depending on caliber. There's really no use in worrying about something if it's such a cheap price tag. Also, instead of buying a NoGo gauge as well, I just went to my local auto shop and bought a feeler gauge set (approximately $5). I cut off the end of the .003" feeler shim and placed it behind the Go gauge I had bought after I was done tightening the barrel nut. The .003" shim effectively turns the Go gauge into a NoGo gauge. i.e. if the bolt will not close on the nogo gauge with what I would call normal pressure (5lbs maybe? Just don't crank on the bolt handle) once the barrel and barrel nut are on and tightened, you should be good.
If you're wondering, I found information about .308 gauges at this link: http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...d.php?t=347313
It was stating that in a perfect world, there is a difference of .004" between the go and nogo gauges. So I figured that if I stuck to less than that and the bolt would still not close on my makeshift nogo gauge, I was alright.
I hope this is helpful! And guys who are more knowledgable than myself, let me know if this a good procedure. From an engineering standpoint, the reduction of .001" from the nogo length should make up for any warping from cutting the shim, so that was my safety factor to my project.