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I'm wanting to change out the bolt handle assembly on my 116 weather warrior. I plan replacing it with the Savage 110BA tactical handle assembly ( http://www.midwayusa.com/product/674...ob-steel-matte ) . My question is this. Is this a plug and play modification or is there a reason such a clocking or something that it needs to be done by a gunsmith?
Go for it. You will crack up at how easy it is.
1. Remove bolt from action.
2. Using an allen wrench, remove bolt handle screw from action body. Once you free the screw, hold the action with the bolt face down.
3. Remove old bolt handle.
4. Replace with new bolt handle of your favor.
5. Replace bolt handle screw.
6. Enjoy your Savage rifle.
Easy as 1,2,3...6 :)
Tim
Don't let a gunsmith charge you $25-50 for this procedure...
Suggestion:Quote:
Originally Posted by tiny68
Leave bolt in rifle, after making sure rifle is unloaded, pull trigger to release spring tension and allow firing pin to move forward.
Then, using allen wrench, start loosening BAS (Bolt Action Screw)
THEN, remove bolt from rifle and continue with steps above.
Just an FYI. I've been wanting this bolt handle for a while and it has been backordered since...well at least since mid last year? Each time the due back in stock date comes up, it gets pushed back one sometimes 2 months.
I've given up and am sending my current bolt handle to Phoenix Custom Rifles to have them put their Phoenix bolt knob on it and then get it cerakoted.
Thanks for the info guys. Can anyone tell me what the torque spec is on the bolt action screw? I want to make sure it is torqued correctly when I put it back together. I figured it was easy but had a friend that is into Remington's tell me to make sure the bolt doesn't have to be clocked after installing a new handle. Whatever that means. I am a complete noob when it comes to bolt action rifles. Thanks for the heads up on the backorder capreppy.
Several people on this site have converted factory bolt handles into their customs. If you put an ad in the want to buy section, I bet someone will make you what you want.
Torque ---- I think it is "one grunt" setting....:-) absolutely no clue.
It is a big screw with a lot of threads. I just get it good and tight. Never had one come lose yet. I would guess 80 inch-pounds would be more than enough.
"one grunt" setting is what I used on my last bolt handle change and no issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by tiny68
If memory serves you'll have to put the cocking mechanism back to cocked to get the bolt to go in. Try stockade gun stocks they have some nice bolt handles that are machined in one piece.
Thread jack...... will that handle fit a standard 11? I love it....... and, is there a cheaper version? 80$ for a slab of metal that has no working parts is rough. I'm cheap, please don't blast on me.
This works, but Not the best idea if it is tight. All the force will be transferred to the cross pin.Quote:
Originally Posted by thomae
Lay it on the floor and step on the bolt & push the Allan wrench with the other foot to brake it loose.
Here are a couple of options...Quote:
Originally Posted by jt41time
http://www.tacticalworks.com/Savage-Bolt-Handles/
http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/
Good advice. I dont mind putting it in the rifle to tighten it on reassembly.Quote:
Originally Posted by jibben
For the OP if you are having a tough time putting it back together TXBDYGAURD hit the nail on the head. Move the button to the lowest position, start the BAS about 1 turn and recock the bolt by pushing the button to the highest position and finish tightening the BAS.
jiben, thanks for mentioning this. You make a very good point. I forgot that most of my rifles are not brand new and I've disassembled their respective bolts many times. I do what jibben says the first time with a new rifle, especially if it is tight because the back of the mainspring is digging into the inside of the BAS. Once it is disassembled, smooth the rear of the mainspring and disassembly will be much easier the next time.Quote:
Originally Posted by jibben
You still may need to decock the bolt because if you have the type of firing pin that protrudes through the BAS, you won't be able to get your allen wrench in otherwise.
Thanks for the info guys. I do have the new style with the cocking indicator. I spoke with Kevin from Stockade yesterday. He recommended sending my bolt in to him so he could cut the firing pin down, plug the hole and instal a lift kit. Does this make sense? Is there really a need for a lift kit? What does it do? Pardon my ignorance. I'm just trying to learn.