New to the savage 110, ???'s galore

OK, I just got my first savage 110 in 30-06. Its a non accu-anything, wooden stock, stagger feed with the 3 screw trigger. I've already found the walkthroughs on how to adjust these triggers.. it still feels pretty heavy.. something to work on. I got the rifle used, but I dont think it had 2 boxes run through it.. just a little marking on the boltface in carbon.. no brass on there yet.


Im looking to slowly build this into a long range gun.. yes, I know its probably cheaper to start with a 12, but hey.. you get what you can afford.

I'm considering having the stock pillar bedded, is there a stock out there that would give me better results in the 200 range?
I'd love to get a shilen barrel on it, sticking with .30-06.
I'm lost on rings for the time being, leaning towards talley one piece base/ring combos.
I've got a bushnell elite 3200 4-12x40 on it right now, but that will probably change as I get to reach out there.
Any suggestions on good rests for the front or a good bipod? I hear good things about atlas, but from the site it looks as if they require a rail to mount?

Is the SharpshootersSupply recoil lug worth getting over the stock one?

Any and all info is wanted.. thanks.

Have the same savage but mine is chambered in .270.

Weaver flat back base with rounded front work just fine. Think are 3 bucks a piece.

Weaver skeleton rings also work good too.

Got my bipod from walmart for 45 bucks. Any bipod will do you fine. Don't spend the extra $$ on a harris bipod.

That wood stock will be fine if you pillar and glass bed. There are many others to choose from though if you just want a new one. I personally like the Burris signature zee rings. The scope you have should do well for what it sounds like you are wanting the gun to do. The recoil lug is a very nice cheap upgrade that I recommend as well. Welcome to the addiction of savage rifles.

I'm new myself, but welcome aboard!

First off, don't spend a single dime (except on ammo) until you've shot the rifle from a solid rest to see how she shoots as is. Next, prepare to spend endless hours on this site learning how simple it really is to bed your action yourself and countless other articles filled with interesting examples of things you can do on your own. The great thing about these rifles is that you don't have to spend a lot of money to create a rifle that's unique to you, i.e. DIY paint jobs with inexpensive hardware store paints. You certainly can spend a lot of money to get what you want, but you don't have to. The Atlas bipod is well engineered and rock solid but it's also heavy and maybe a bit of overkill at first; not to mention expensive at $200 +. On the other hand, if that's what you want to do, rails come in all shapes and sizes for not much money and they are easy to attach to your wooden stock. Harris bipods are available in many configurations, and they can be found used sometimes for under $50. Your Bushnell scope should serve you well for a long time.

Enjoy but be forewarned that these puppies can become very addicting:)

First off WELCOME.
OK lets see if I can answer some of those questions.
1- really the only difference in the actions are the finishes,110,112, 114. 116, basicly the same as are all the two digit actions.
2- stock relatively easy to pillar bed and there are step by step instructions here on the forum just do a search. If looking to buy a new one go to a site sponsor Boyd's or Stocky's and make sure you look for LONG ACTION stagger feed.
3- the barrel is pretty easy go to Northland shooting supply(has a spot here on the forum) call Jim and he will get you what you need including a better recoil lug, and yes the after market are much better.
4- bases and rings really are a preference of your own, I personally like the Burris xtr bases and rings.
5- I am not a big fan of bipods but the one I have is a Harris and my front rest is custom made for BR. If you are just shooting for fun any of the better quality rest from Cabela's or where ever will do.
6- I know you only asked 5 but here is an idea first $12 spend on a paid membership here and you can get into the classifieds and probably find the things you want from other members at a discount.
I hope I helped a little.

Thanks for the tips.

So far, I've lightened the trigger a bit.. It' still a little stiff, but its as light as I'm willing to take it. I've removed all "slop".

Are these bipods ones you can lean in on, or are they just to support the weight of the front of the rifle? I was a saw gunner in the army, and that thing you could really lean in... and from what I've seen, non of the civilian versions are capapble of handling anywhere near that level of stress.. so I'm assuming they are just there for support.

I'd love to be able to pillar bed it myself, but I'm not handy in that manner.. I could always try and then replace the stock.. but I think I'd rather have it done right the first time.

Rings and bases.. I'm running some sort of weaver steel rings with millet angle locks.. I dont know what type the bases are.. but its what came on the rifle when I got it.. used.

Reach out there by my standards is 600+ yards. The 12 should be ok.. but I suspect that I'll want something a little more powerful. Something with both more power and a bit better glass.. looking into swvoraski or zeiss for that.. if I can afford a NF.. I might go that route.

Here be pics..
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/...924_180504.jpg
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/...924_180513.jpg

Also, I get hard extraction when I chamber a LC Match milsurp Garand safe load. I'm not firing it.. my reloads extract all nice.. but that LC stuff doesnt.. suggestions?

LC stuff is a bit thicker and very good brass. After a full length size they should be fine.

i know.. but if it doesnt extract the round without firing... ill save it for the garand for 1st fire

Either that or pull them down then resize.

that sounds like a lot of work man.. and I have to remove my decapping stem.. might as well enjoy it in the garand.. I know they're safe for that :)

same exact stock on my .270

Worst rings you could possabley use on an expensive scope!!

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Originally Posted by Blue Avenger

Worst rings you could possabley use on an expensive scope!!

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What are?

Millett, I agree.

Talley LW, I completely disagree.

The milletts aren't optimal, but the bases on the rifle I just pulled em off of weren't perfectly square. They are adequate if you do it right.. but there isn't any room for screwups either.

I found that IF I mount the scope before attaching them to the bases, the rings are already square, then I set them on the bases loosely. I tighten , 1 turn at a time until I get close to feeling any resistance, then 1/2 turn to dial it in. Before I get there.. the adjustments are all the way out, then1 turn in (to hold the legs on). 1 turn on the left, one turn on the right, then back ring.. keeps it pretty centered, and it keeps from torquing the scope body. They are the main reason I am looking for better rings though.. because even I dont like em.. and I've never had an issue with em.

We'll have to disagree on the definition of an expensive scope.

When did savage go to needing round scope bases in the rear? Or, when did they go to the flat ones (which ever is easier.. Flat preceeded round right?)?

Flat ones are for the old stagger feed, round back for the newer centerfeed models.

Thanks, you know approximately when that switch over happened?

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Originally Posted by scythefwd

Thanks, you know approximately when that switch over happened?

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2003 for the most part. Some models trailed a bit.

KeS

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Originally Posted by kevin_stevens

2003 for the most part. Some models trailed a bit.

KeS

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Accurate enough time frame for me.. thanks man. I've wanted a savage 10/110 for about 5 years now, and I figured I'd worry about the minutiae once I had the opportunity. From what I gather, my 110 stagger feed is basically a stevens 200 with slightly better finishing.. now to the customizations :) Thinking a buds thumbhole, next month, whidden vblock the month after that, new recoil lug/barrel wrench, fluted bolt body, and getting the stock milled out after that.. and possibly bedding. If I've already gotten a couple deer with it. Still looking for a limbsaver for it that is actually in stock.

I see mention of making sure the tang of the action is floated when bedding.. not used to that term in relation to firearms.. somone wanna help educate me on it? off googling it now.. but just in case

Basically the piece of steel the safety is on??

Yup, you got it. You should be able to slide some paper underneath it.

For an inexpensive but very good drop-in stock check Boyds website. They will even checker it for an extra $50. I kinda like the Prairie hunter model. Walnut and laminates. Laminates are under $100 and walnut a bit more

El Lobo

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Originally Posted by scythefwd

I see mention of making sure the tang of the action is floated when bedding.. not used to that term in relation to firearms.. somone wanna help educate me on it? off googling it now.. but just in case

Basically the piece of steel the safety is on??

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The "tang" is generally refereed to on a BA as the portion of the action from the bridge rearward. For most "Off Brands" (:p) it serves as the rear attachment point for the action in the stock. In the case of a Savage its a convenient location for the safety bar and some trigger functions, safety engagement, over travel, WOP(AT) and etc.

Bill