pillar length

I just want to confirm my procedure for this measurement.

1. tape barrel 1'' inside fore end

2. tape tang providing sufficient clearance

3. tape action securely to stock (not so tight to bind action)

4. measure front action screw port less Boyds bushing thickness

5. measure rear action screw port less S.S.S. trigger guard thickness

I believe that I understand this principal

1. the bearing of the action must be metal to metal

2. their must be no binding of the action between its anchor points

3. the barrel nut, recoil lug and rear tang must free float

special considerations:

1. recoil lug

a. recoil lug must have clearance on front, side and bottom faces

b. relief to back inside corners for maximum bearing on rear face

2. rear tang

a. tang should free float from bolt handle in let rearward.

Well, for a point by point synopsis, I think you have the outline, but I cannot tell if you really have all the details there.

The exact length of the pillars varies. For the front pillar, all that matters is that the pillar is long enough so that the front action screw is not too long. If the screw is too long, it will bind up the front lug and you cannot cycle the action.

For the rear pillar, you have to size it to fit, so that the trigger gard sits in the stock properly.

Seems like you have those concepts, based on your outline......

What is less clear from your synopsis is whether you are going to pillar bed the whole stock at once, or first place the pillars, and then complete the rest of the bedding (recoil lug being the major point to be cared about.).

I bought a kit to pillar bed my gun. It had the rear pillar notched to clear the trigger. I read more -- some folks experience splitting of the stock when drilling out the rear hole to accept a large pllar.

Some folks mention lamp rod. I had some laying around. They are correct about it being the correct inside diameter fot the action scews, and comes with threads on the outside for a good glue fit.

I ground a little away from the bolt release on the trigger assembly so that I could use a fll 360 round piece of lamp rod. It worked well...

Well - the front length does matter *some*; it sets the height for both the tang and the ejection port. If you have the front too low you might get tang float, but the line of the ejection port will be at an angle to the stock.

KeS

I just lost my earlier reply is it just me or is everyone having to constantly log in? Anyway, the stock fit perfectly so I measured for pillars less trigger guard and bushing then removed wood for bedding. Lamp rod will be used for pillars. Will bed pillars with action.

Thanx for the replies

Not noticing the login issue you speak of, btw.

KeS

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stewart33

I just lost my earlier reply is it just me or is everyone having to constantly log in? Anyway, the stock fit perfectly so I measured for pillars less trigger guard and bushing then removed wood for bedding. Lamp rod will be used for pillars. Will bed pillars with action.

Thanx for the replies

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When you login check the remember me box

always remembered. any bedding advise?

Ya its easy ;-) and remember the barrel ant tang need to be floated. And release agent is your friend