Once Fired Hornady Brass Binds When Chambering

Rather than buying some new, unfired brass for my new .223, I purchased a box of 50 Hornady loaded rounds. These were the 52 gr BTHP and the box lists a muzzle velocity of 3300 fps. After firing all of them, I neck sized them with my Lee Collet die. Checking to see if they would chamber, I'm having problems with the case body jamming in the chamber. This happened on all the ones I tried. Sometimes they will chamber, most of the time they jam. I went back and full length sized the first 10 and that solves the chambering problem. I'd prefer to neck size with my Collet die, in the future. I haven't had this problem with my 243 and 7mm-08, using Winchester brass.
Is this a rifle chamber problem, a brass problem, or the case expanded too much from a hot Hornady load?

Thanks

I had a similar issue with hornady brass in my 30.06. Only when I use a warm load of IMR 4064. If I use 4350, it's OK. The brass (Hornady only) has to be full length sized or it chambers hard.

It never happens with Rem or Fed.

I can only speculate that perhaps the brass is a little softer than other manufacturers.

I have no great love for Hornady brass anyway. Whenever I come across any, I make hunting rounds for my son. This way I know they won't be coming back....

Frank in Fla

I've only had it happen when reloading from factory 55 vmax brass with hot (26+gr) with Varget and 69smk. And it was sticky coming out not chambering. I then FL resized and reduced powder and all was fine.

Chamber could also be slightly out of round.

When you have rounds that jamb in the chamber the problem is that the back half of the brass is oversized, and the only solution is to FL size the brass, there is nothing wrong with the chamber. I have found that hornady brass is problematic. Do your self a favor and throw away the lee collet die, and the Honady brass, Trust me you will be far better off.

Probably need to bump the shoulders back maybe .001 or .002 when you neck size.
Full length resizing seems to cure the problem.

Plan B ... partial size the brass with the F/L sizer turned back out 1/2 to one full turn away from the shell holder. It will catch most of the body and neck but not push the shoulder.

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Originally Posted by Blue Avenger

Plan B ... partial size the brass with the F/L sizer turned back out 1/2 to one full turn away from the shell holder. It will catch most of the body and neck but not push the shoulder.

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Right!

I have noticed with the lee collet neck sizing die if you put too much presure to close the neck it will buldge the case keeping it from fitting in the chamber.

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Originally Posted by stangfish

I have noticed with the lee collet neck sizing die if you put too much presure to close the neck it will buldge the case keeping it from fitting in the chamber.

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Common problem, One of the main reasons I tell people to stay away from Lee collet dies.

I agree that the issue is at the base of the brass, and it needs a FL die. Also think that it is a common problem with Horn-heads brass.
I disagree with the collet suggestions. The only time I thought I had an issue, was when I went from memory, and didn't adjust per the de-structions. Been using collets for 20 years on a dozen different cases.
To each his own I suppose.

For the collet die i have to agree with Darkker. As to the brass i have some in 6.5 grendel in a bolt gun and have the same problem with the brass swelling up at the base from factory loads. I have ground a shell holder down to where it pulled the sliver off the top (didn't get brass stuck in the die) and couldn't get it sized down with Lee or RCBS FL dies. I just chunk it now.

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Originally Posted by stangfish

I have noticed with the lee collet neck sizing die if you put too much presure to close the neck it will buldge the case keeping it from fitting in the chamber.

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this i would say is the problem if the case once fired comes out fine but you neck size it and it dont go back in fine then you have buldge the case.

but thats just an opinon

Thanks for the imput on yet another brass cartridge i wont be buying. My dad always said chuck Federal brass when it came through. But i didnt. Shot a box of Federal Gold Medal Match 308 in my 110fp. Every case had to be trimmed before neck sizing and then again after. Weak brass. Now i chuck it. And from what y'all say, Hornady is the same. Also have been using collet dies for years and never had a problem w/them.

Well, here I am again! I can only guess my 223 has a slightly out of round chamber.
I took 50 once-fired PMC brass, FL sized them, loaded them up and fired them. Ran three through my collet die and have the same chambering problem as with the Hornady brass. (On three tries of chambering, per case, they jam 1/3 of the time.) I suspect, but, am not sure, the problem is on the body, near the case head. That's where it appears to be binding. When I look at a jammed one, I find a bit more of the body protruding from the back of the chamber than with a FL sized case.
I am guessing I'll have to just FL size, for this rifle. I am a target shooter and an accuracy nut so, I would prefer not to FL size with a conventional die. I want to keep concentricity a non-factor. So, how about a Redding Type S FL Bushing Die? I really like the Forster Neck Bushing Plus Bump Die, but, believe it wouldn't help me since it does nothing with the case body.
My loaded PMC cases are measuring .246-.247. The loaded Hornady's are measuring .249. Looks like a .245 or .246 bushing and a .248 bushing (for the Hornady cases).
Thoughts appreciated......?

I suppose the other option, at one-third cost; would be to purchase and use a Redding Body Die. More work as the neck would have to be sized with the collet die and then the body sized with the Redding die.

Could be a headspace issue. I had the same issue as the above.

I took a fired round and measured the headspace.

I set the die up to push the shoulders back .002 less than the fired round and my problem was solved.

Without going into detail, I did get another FL die to achive the above. Obviously my first die wasn't pushing the shoulder back enough and couldn't be adjusted to do so! .001 to much headspace will give a sticky bolt, .002 to much takes a lot of force to get the bolt down. 003 to much, the bolt is not going down.

My procedure "now" when sizing any brass is to check the headspace and make sure it's about .001 to .002 less after sizing. I also chamber a few in the gun to make sure their OK! Just the newly sized brass, not a loaded round!

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I went back and full length sized the first 10 and that solves the chambering problem. I'd prefer to neck size with my Collet die, in the future.

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I would almost bet it's a headspace issue as per your above statement. If a FL die solved the problem, it could only be two problems, one being the above-headspace, or the body of the case is oversized, or both. Anyway, that's what I would check first.

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I really like the Forster Neck Bushing Plus Bump Die,

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It sounds like your on the right track and the above die IMO is the only one to use when neck sizing. First part is easy, get your caliper and measure the outer case of a fired round and a factory round. If the fired round measurement is at least equal to a factory round, you can probably rule out the body. Measure it at several points. Next step is to measure headspace. If you do not have the tools, find someone who does and in a few minutes I am sure you will solve the problem. I personally found factory brass headspace is about .005 less than "fired" brass out of my gun. So the factory brass is streching about .006 when firing!

One last opinion, when I reload my 223, I only use a FL die. The brass is so small you will rarely have issues with brass. On my gun only, when I have 25 rounds on my 223 brass (bolt action long gun), I put them in the bucket and start over with new brass. If your shooting a AR type rifle, then FL sizing the brass is the only way you can go!

Bite the bullet and buy Lapua brass. Most trouble free brass I've found and lasts a long time.

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Originally Posted by Dennis

Could be a headspace issue. I had the same issue as the above.

I took a fired round and measured the headspace.

I set the die up to push the shoulders back .002 less than the fired round and my problem was solved.

Without going into detail, I did get another FL die to achive the above. Obviously my first die wasn't pushing the shoulder back enough and couldn't be adjusted to do so! .001 to much headspace will give a sticky bolt, .002 to much takes a lot of force to get the bolt down. 003 to much, the bolt is not going down.

My procedure "now" when sizing any brass is to check the headspace and make sure it's about .001 to .002 less after sizing. I also chamber a few in the gun to make sure their OK! Just the newly sized brass, not a loaded round!



I would almost bet it's a headspace issue as per your above statement. If a FL die solved the problem, it could only be two problems, one being the above-headspace, or the body of the case is oversized, or both. Anyway, that's what I would check first.



It sounds like your on the right track and the above die IMO is the only one to use when neck sizing. First part is easy, get your caliper and measure the outer case of a fired round and a factory round. If the fired round measurement is at least equal to a factory round, you can probably rule out the body. Measure it at several points. Next step is to measure headspace. If you do not have the tools, find someone who does and in a few minutes I am sure you will solve the problem. I personally found factory brass headspace is about .005 less than "fired" brass out of my gun. So the factory brass is streching about .006 when firing!

One last opinion, when I reload my 223, I only use a FL die. The brass is so small you will rarely have issues with brass. On my gun only, when I have 25 rounds on my 223 brass (bolt action long gun), I put them in the bucket and start over with new brass. If your shooting a AR type rifle, then FL sizing the brass is the only way you can go!

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I am sorta kind of following you. However, with each neck sized case; they chamber easily - with no resistance at all - on two out of three attempts. On one of the three attempts; each one will bind going in. Because each one chambers easily - when they don't jam - it leads me to believe its not an issue of the shoulder needing to be bumped. On my other two Savages - and I use the Lee Collet Dies with those as well - after several firings - the cases get increasingly hard to chamber, with resistance. At that point, I either run them through the FL die (.243) or the Redding Body Die (7mm-08). Once the shoulder is resized enough; they chamber easily. I then just neck size for the next 3-4 firings until the shoulder has to be bumped again. Two years ago, I experimented with adjusting FL dies to partial size the .243 and 7mm-08, much as I'd done years ago with my 220 Swift. It wasn't as easy since the two .308 derivatives don't have as much body taper as the Swift case. My point here is that as I backed the die off; the body would be pushed forward on partial resizing where I'd have resistance chambering, at the shoulder. Because those two cases don't have much body taper; I found the difference - in die position - between adequately bumping the shoulder and FL sizing was very small, maybe 1/8 turn at best. On my Swift, years ago, there was much more difference in the die position (how backed off).
With regard to checking head space on the .223, are you suggesting using go/no-go gauges or can one find/purchase some sort of gauges that allow measurements?
....And when making the body measurements against a "factory round" (which I don't have); will a FL sized case suffice?