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guys i bought a choate fp-10 in 308 in january and have about 8 rounds through it accuracy was never there. the end of the barrel on one side is erroding. any idea bad barrel/ ammo. trying to figure out whats best send it back for repair or get a new barel. after market any ideas.
maybe oil it? do you live in area with high humidity?
wish i was back in az. now in kentucky. not a oiling issue.
correction 80-90 rounds through it
WAAAAYYYYY to little info for us to be helpful.
80-90 rounds of WHAT through it? Mil-surp, random hand-me-downs, something from a gift shop??
"The end of the barrel on one side is erroding" Meaning you think the bore is now oblong, or the outer diameter is rusting away?
What does "the accuracy was never there" mean? From a bench and bipod groups? Or random drunken shooting with friends lost a bet accuracy?
To get any real sense of what we think is going on and it sounds like you do want that...you are going to need to post more information...along with pics of the muzzle/crown area.
I suspect that unless there is something really out of whack...like extremely poor care on a previous owners part that allowed CORROSION of the crown or some damage or sorts that its probably a case of something loose ( stock. screws, scope), poor quality ammo/scope/components. Choate stocks while on the low end money wise are known for their accuracy UNLESS something is askew...worse case scenario on the barrel, take it to a competent smith and pay him to whack an inch off and re-crown as long as the rifling is in good shape...if the barrel is toast due to neglect a new or used one can be found on here very reasonably.
Here is how I would approach the problem IF you are genuinely concerned about the rifle and its accuracy...a 10FP in a Choate stock should be (and probably is a tack driver with the right ammo)
I would suggest a disassemble and clean...THE ENTIRE RIFLE, SCOPE, RINGS, MOUNTS, STOCK and TRIGGER GUARD...reassemble, retorque and Loctite anything that needs Loctite, action screws and ring and mount screws AFTER BEING PROPERLY TORQUED...then I would attain at least two boxes of FGMM 175 (too many anecdotal reports of the 175's shooting better than the 168's in these guns, some do some dont) and then...
1. Re-Zero the rifle at 100yds taking your time to do so...bore sight it to get on paper then zero it to hit center...allow the rifle to cool down to ambient temp...DO NOT CLEAN THE BARREL
2. Once cooled fire a 3 round group for absolute precision utilizing all of the concepts of good marksmanship...if you don't know these look them up and practice.
3. Allow barrel to cool completely to ambient temp again. Fire another 3 round group on a new target and compare them. Measure accurately and record results on each target. Notice the location of the group for changes of POI. DO NOT CLEAN THE BARREL.
4. After allowing the barrel to cool fire another , your 3rd 3 round group and now compare all three. Notice any changes in group size and POI...by now your barrel should be fouled and you may see an increase in accuracy (shrinking groups) as most Savages shoot better a little dirty...At this point DO NOT CLEAN THE BARREL. Allow the barrel to cool to ambient temp.
5. Now, with a new target in place. Fire 10 rounds as accurately as possible, not rushing, but now allowing the barrel to heat up...now your looking for verticle or horizontal shot stringing. If there are issues between your rifle and its stock NOW is the time they will show up.
Report back...
You will probably be pleasantly surprised at the accuracy of the FGMM...I would bet that the gun now shoots at least .75 MOA and even at or under .50 MOA...if those figures are good enough for you buy some more of the FGMM and keep it around as that guns dedicated load...if not...you might consider load development and there are lots of people on here who can walk you thru that...
Capt Beach
and i would be happy to be in Kentucky, would like to see green stuff growing instead of seeing brown all the time!Quote:
Originally Posted by jjdgldaz
Where do you live in KY?
I'm from Lexington and live outside Louisville now...I might be able to help in person.
As others have said...post pictures.
You might have a bad barrel, but I'd bet something is loose or you need different ammo.
All thanks for the aid. working on the pictures now.
I have a nother FP 10 in 308. i shoot sub moa with using nosler custom 168. i have shot a variety of ammo through this none mil surplus. but from. hornady custom, to TAP. to nosler to american eagle target. some federal match just seeing what was going on. The front of the barrel is oblonged from the tip. looking into the barrel i see what looks to be a small anmount of pitting in the tip. i am no amature when it come to weapon maintenance so the dirty barrel or improper cleaning just doesnt fit. What about a good local smith. Lexington area or even louisville. The rifle was bought new in January and i didnt get to shoot it until the end of march. had to save for a damm scope.
Do as the guys say, don't clean until accuracy falls off. Capt. Beach has it covered except for one thing. When you reassemble the rifle bumb the butt on the ground to seat the recoil lug and torque the mounting screws while keeping the barrel free floated. The tang as well. If that barrel is relativley new check for copper buildup. Same if it is old. With a barrel like that the first thing I will do is put some 4 aught steel wool on a jag and run it up and down the bore a half dozen times then check for pits etc. If none then the barrel shortening would be a good idea. The rest of the barrel should be OK if shiney.
El Lobo
If the rifle was bought in Jan...call SAVAGE...they may have you send it back...if they dont...I'd cut an inch or two off of it and re-crown...
as with all savages, make sure the barrel and the rear tang of the action are free-floated.
if the end of the barrel looks oblong, get it shortened and recrowned. It should only cost you about $40.
I would also take Boilerup's offer to meet up in person, maybe at a local range. Sometimes just a different opinion can go a long ways, but if nothing else you got to meet and hang out with another fellow Savageshooter. That is exactly how our Pa Savageshoot started out.
I'd first call Savage and see if they will look at it, I'm sure if you lopped of and inch of the barrel that would void any warrantee you had, do that as a last resort.
Curt
I just read through this whole posting and the one thing missing is the fact it is a new rifle or a used rifle. If used and the muzzle is oblong it sounds like that end of the barrel got crunched somehow removing blueing and leaviing it open for rusting inside and out. If a new rifle, call Savage and ask to have it returned. If they wont then cut the barrel back past any sign of it being oblong and recrowned.
El Lobo
Post number 9 mentions that the rifle was bought new in January...
Call Savage and see what they say and please let us know what they say.
hinking of getting a break and the barrel recrowned. any ideas on a brake
That's freakin funny. I can't stop chuckling.Quote:
Originally Posted by darkker
Yea Dunkin moments exactly. No using nosler, federal and hornady. Only no mill spec ammo. Also rifle was purchased in January looking at having a Smith look at it and tell me if it is salvageable our not.if is redrawn and barrel brake
So got a hold of the savage Rep for the area. he got in contact with factory and sending it back for diagnostics.
Post no. 9? OOPS.
El Lobo.
So sent the rifle in. Warranty repair. No charge. New barrel. Shoots sub moa. Great Savage product once again