Factory Barrel Nut Removal

I have built several rifles now on savage actions. All the barrel nuts came off relatively easily. Today I removed the barrel on my 10FP, which I had bought new a number of years ago. I have never seen anything like it! I literally beat the snot out of the barrel nut wrench, and bent the screw in the action wrench which goes thru the wrench into the action. I have never seen anything like it - I literally forged flats on the nut wrench I was hitting it so hard! It finally came loose and I was able to rebarrel. Why does the factory snug them up so tight? Damn.....

I have read where some residue from the blueing process gets in the threads and glues them on. I ran into your problem one time and just took a dremmel with a thin abrasive cutting wheel on it and cut the darn nut off. I was rapidly ruining a good nut wrench.

El Lobo

I had a real tight one that came off the action without allot of fuss but would not let go of the barrel.

I applied some Kroil and let it set for 4 days while I was out of town. When I came back its screwed off with hand pressure. Whatever they're using Kroil seems to dissolve it.

Just a thought.
Perhaps an electric heat gun, or even a propane torch, judiciously and carefully applied to the barrel nut, especially in addition to the Kroil, might help as well?

I've had a couple where the junk factory recoil lug had bent under recoil and put the nut in a bind on the barrel. I pounded one straight and I elected to cut the nut from one of them before damaging something I didn't want to.

Well, I didn't want to cut the nut off as I didn't have a spare and wanted to shoot in the morning, so I just pounded the snot out of the wrench! It finally came off and all is good, but I certainly don't want to do that again!

I picked up a new Shilen 308 SM barrel from Jim at Northland and can't wait to try it in the am. The previous factory barrel was under 1 moa, but I just was not comfortable with the grouping. All shots should have been touching and they were not. Now there's no excuse except me!

Just wanted to post an update to this thread. I took the Shilen barrel out to the range today. Using ammunition which was tuned for the factory barrel, I was shooting 155g Vmax bullets, and the groupings were coverable by a nickle! My factory barrel never came close to this (and it's the second factory barrel on this rifle - the first was replaced by Savage when it shot like a shotgun rather than a rifle). The other strange thing I noticed, and I have no explanation because it doesn't make sense, but this barrel recoils straight back whereas the factory barrel always hopped sideways. I was always frustrated shooting it because I could never get it to stay on target. With the Shilen it's directly back and no hop to either side. I have no idea why this is but I'm experiencing it.

The replacement barrel (purchased it from Jim at NSS) has made my 308 my favorite rifle to shoot again.

I just removed the SS 308 barrel from my 12FVSS. I had a hell of a time getting my nut off too...(ok, let's keep it clean fellas ;D). I noticed that there were what could be described as chips breaking as I was removing the nut from the barrel. I think Savage may be using some thread locker on their barrels. I cleaned up all the thread as best I could, and applied a little Moly grease to the threads of my CBI 6.5x47 Lapua barrel before I put it in the action for a dry fit. Makes a world of difference. I also install my barrel nuts with just a light rap of the deadblow hammer on my nut wrench. Nothing more is needed, especially when you grease the threads.

Kevin