What do you lube your trigger with?

I usually use CLP for most everything and I have used it for triggers too. But, my concern is how much CLP likes to run everywhere. When I use it on the action I wipe off the excess. Seems that even if I use just a tad of it at the top of the sear to let run down the sear and to the trigger it still leaves what I think is too much behind. I'm concerned about it harming the wood under the tang. It's too impractical to take the stock off every time due to the fact I'd have to re-zero the rifle every time. Thought about using a dry lube but then there's no corrosion protection. I've heard some people say the oil is bad for the wood and will soften it and others say that theirs hasn't been harmed. It's not like it's getting soaked with it. So I wonder will a little of it end up hurting the stock over time or not?

Clean air

Yep - like em nice and clean and dry.

Understand that but still think it needs a thin film of something. Not only for corrosion prevention but it too is a pressure/friction point not much different than any other moving part that should have some kind of lubrication. I've read some people flush them with lighter fluid. It dries off and leaves enough of a film for lube purposes.

If you are looking for corrosion protection, wipe the parts with your silicone cloth.
Otherwise I'm dry as well. As far as weapon lube, I like SlipStream.

another one for clean only. corrosion will not build up if the things are kept in a dry environment and cleaned after use. also use will keep it from building up also

I do clean after use and always take extra care to keep them dry. But it's kinda hard to really clean a trigger mechanism without taking the stock off. And that's kinda part of my point. I'm not taking the stock off after every time I use it because then I'd have to sight it in all over again. I'm thinking maybe a little touch of Rem-oil cause it kinda dries off but leaves a good protecting film behind and doesn't seem to keep running out from everywhere like CLP does. Thanks for all the input guys.

ANY kind of lube will attract dust/dirt/grime and will vary in thickness/viscosity depending on temperature - no matter what hype the manufacturer throws out. So lubing the trigger mechanism is a good way to get a gritty, variable pull.

Oil & other lubricants attract dust, dirt & spooge.

We all HATE dust dirt & spooge >:(

The only part that gets any kind of lube on my rifles is the moly type lube on the sear.

And that gets changed every 3 to 6 months to get the trash out that it collects.

Usually the Hoppe's that I clean the barrel & chamber with leaves an oily residue from the kerosene it contains ends up depositing a little on the trigger parts. ;)

A little Gumout spray usually cleans it (and any spooge, dirt, etc) right out & leaves no residue.

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Originally Posted by efm77

I'm not taking the stock off after every time I use it because then I'd have to sight it in all over again.

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if you have to sight it in every time you remove the stock me thinks something might be wrong.

I have to agree with Earl 39 -

I take my rifles out of the stocks once or twice a month & I've NEVER had to re-site them in.

We'll, maybe once...
There was that time it fell off the bench :'(

But other than that, I've never had to mess with the sight in.

Have at it. And, while you're in there go ahead & adjust that trigger & have a look around. :o
;)

efm, I understand what you're asking, but I have to agree with the others that any sort of meaningful cleaning is virtually impossible without removing the barreled action.

You mentioned Rem- oil. I live in a very wet/humid area and I'm skeptical of leaving any metal surface bare. As such, once in a while I'll take my actions out of the stock and spray the triggers thoroughly with Gun Scrubber or a similar fast evaporating degreaser, then blow them out with low-pressure compressed air. Then I will spray them with Rem-oil, and again thoroughly blow out the excess with air. I haven't had any issues (yet) with this method.

Make sure to regulate the air pressure down though! About 20 psi is plenty. If you hit it with 140# of air you may find yourself lacking vital trigger bits when you're done!

Sounds like you guys have had better luck than me then. I don't think there's anything else wrong. I've never had any issues with losing zero as long as I leave everything alone. Now granted, I don't use a torque wrench on it but everytime I've removed a stock on any of my rifles and put it back on the zero had changed a little. I suspect due to minor difference in the screw torque. Now it wasn't off by a lot but it wasn't exactly the same as I left it before either. Please someone convince me because removing the stock would be so much easier. I may just try it again and see how it does when I shoot it again.

I guess I'm one of those that does lube metal parts in my guns. I've switched products in last few years. I now use two of the Lubriplate products. One is a high vis. oil and the other a grease. I oil rotating parts and grease the parts that slide together or where I don't want migration (it stays). I absolutely do not use products such as WD-40 or Rem-Oil for lubrication. I do use WD for cleaning though. I lube my pistols, rifles, carbines and shotguns. Products such as Lubriplate work on somewhat molecular level. Filling in gaps and pores in the steel.
So since this is a Savage forum I'll address the rifle. I usually grease my trigger contact parts, then wipe off. I oil my internal bolt parts,then wipe off. I grease the outside of bolt and lugs and the receiver lug grooves. Now I'm not running this rifle wet as I would an AR but everything is lubed then wiped so there isn't globs of grease. Even after wiping off the grease there is a very thin film that is left on the metal. I have a hard time believing that every application of metal on metal in the world uses some type of lubricant except a bolt action rifle.

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Originally Posted by Wildboarem

I have a hard time believing that every application of metal on metal in the world uses some type of lubricant except a bolt action rifle.

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I would too because there are many applications that require lubricant free, clean, dry metal to metal contact.

I've been using Militec1 for about a year now (claimed to be used in field by military for long-term protection), and when done use the small amount leftover on the wipe on the exterior parts of the trigger, never getting close to the working surfaces. Doesn't seem to migrate where it shouldn't, and pleased with this oil so far.

when I opened up my LPRV i noticed some sort of paste on the sear notch, would that be gease from savage?

FWIW

Arnold Jewell says triggers should be clean and dry.
If you mess up and get oil/solvent on them use lighter fluid to clean them.