Talk to me about my reloading setup

After much advice and a lot more research, I decided to update my list, this is my final list so there will be no more changes, I just decided to upgrade a few things:

-Lee Classic cast turret press with extra turrets (was a breechlock press, but decided to upgrade since I believe I will be loading for pistols in the future and would like the added versatility), lee safety prime, lee shell holders

-lee decapping die

-RCBS dies for 7mm-08, .270 Win, 30-06, and 300 WSM

-Lee perfect powder measure +RCBS powder trickler

-Lyman Universal Carbide case trimmer

-Lyman Case prep tool (was lee deburring tool)

-Lyman Ultrasonic cleaner

-Lee safety scale and Gemini-20 digital scale

Now on to the reloading supplies for each caliber:

-7mm-08: Ramshot Big Game (was rl-15), Barnes 120gr. TTSX (was Nosler E-Tip), Remington brass, CCI BR-2 primers (was CCI LR-M)

-.270 Win: Ramshot Hunter (was rl-22), Barnes 130gr. TTSX (was Nosler E-Tip), Winchester brass, CCI BR-2 primers(was CCI LR-M)

-30-06: Ramshot Big Game (was rl-19), Barnes 150gr. TTSX (was Nosler E-Tip), Remington brass, CCI BR-2 primers (was CCI LR-M)

-300 WSM: Ramshot Hunter (was rl-17), Barnes 175gr. LRX (was Nosler E-Tip) and Hornady A-MAX 208gr., Winchester Brass, CCI LR-M primers (Not sure about switching it to BR-2 primers, will probably switch in the future)

and thats it, thanks everyone for the help and advice, this is definitely going to be my starting setup.

Dump the lee deburring tool. I have an RCBS, its ok, but i bet there are still better ones out there.

I would not use a digital scale, at least while learning.

Speaking of learning, I did not see a reloading manual listed there. Got one. Get several. Read them, and ask questions here. If you have a buddy that reloads, go hang out with him for a session. This is a hobby that can hurt you, so you should gain some knowledge before you start.

Also, the ultrasonic cleaner may be a bit over kill. I would look at thumlers tumbler and ss media before i would use ultrasonic.

Sean

definately need a powder trickler

Sean is right... Loose the Lee deburring gizmo. They don't last long. I use a Lyman and it works great.
I think you may want to pick up at least 2 loading trays to hold your brass while working on it. It's too confusing to work off the bench top.
Lyman also makes a primer pocket kit with 2 handles & pocket cleaners. I's also got the reamer to clean up swaged brass. The handles fit brushes, too. I like to keep a barrel brush at the ready for neck sizing. Gotta clean out that spent powder dust & residue..

I have two universal reloading trays, think theyre MTM, hold 50 each.

I have the Lyman 49th manual and Lee 2nd revised On the way that I'm going to be reading the next week or so, and I have looked through all the free manuals from several manufacturers, sorry for not listing.

Keeki: the Perfect powder measure is the powder trickler, it just isnt called a trickler lol.

what deburring/chamfer tool do you guys recommend?

the lee perfect powder measure is a powder throw, not a trickler. Depending on the powders you use it will be off .1gr-.3gr every throw. Ball powders throw good, but your using extruded powder and I know the 17 and 22 is not gonna throw accurately.

I like your choice of RCBS dies over LEE. In the long run, you will appreciate the RCBS quality over the Lee.

I agree with the above poster about the digital scale you have. I don't know if it's a "chepie" $25 one....but I would not trust it if it were. I have the RCBS digital scale. Remember, your going to put these reloads into an expensive rifle.....plus it's your limbs, eyes, and life. Use the Lee balance scale until you have the $$$ to buy a good quality digital scale.

Reloading blocks are a must!!! Your procedure should be to do your brass prep all at once....then prime 'em all at once....then fill 'em with powder all at the same time. Then while they are in the loading block, you can "scan" over all of them to check that the powder height all appear to be equal. Believe me, this may seem to be a no brainer, but it's a very important step to preventing squib loads, or over charges!!! I can't stress this enough!! (Yeah....ask me how I know).

Then you can seat\crimp all of your bullets in the last step. I didn't see if you had a set of calipers.....but a set of dial calipers are kind of a must.

PS....Always trim your brass...or check your brass length on rifle brass AFTER you size it. If it's over spec, trim and de-burr!!!!

I hope this helps.

Dave

I've seen people get accurate enough loads out of their lee throw, but I'll throw in some standard tricklers just to be safe, thanks keeki

I plan on using the digital scale to compliment the balance scale, I'm going to get both, not just one, sorry about that lol.

I have my reloading method down, at least that part isn't rocket science lol.

I have several calipers given to me from my father, he has a bunch from his work, I have a few dial and digital calipers.

its not that the Lee throw is not a good throw, it works as well as any throw in the business, and I agree that you will get very accurate loads from just the throw alone at 100-300yds. To get 500-1000yd accurate youll have to weigh every load and trickle to adjust. I also use a Lee throw and a RCBS throw and one is just as accurate as the other.
The Lee beam scale is very accurate but very slow and annoying also and hard to read (use one of those also), along with a Lyman digital scale. The problem with digital scales is they like to walk on ya, so if you use that, zero after every load.
Reloading is a very addicting and expensive hobby. I started out over 20yrs ago loading for one gun because it was cheaper. 20yrs and 30 sets of dies later along with 20 different powders, 6 different primers, and more different bullets than I care to count, I dont think it was cheaper.lol. But you dont have to order or go to the store because your out of ammo and you wont have to use a load your gun dont like.
Good luck, have fun, and be safe.

Tried the sonic cleaner for brass and returned it. You are not supposed to leave fluid in it. No good way to empty it with out spilling some. So you need a work area that can handle that. Then you have wet brass to care for. It cleans the brass so so. nothing special for the hassle. Great for cleaning small parts, but requires a second fluid to buy and store. While it cleans faster then a tumbler the manual labor is more intense. No new looking shiny brass.

Lymans case trimmer can be a bit inconsistent if your looking for perfection.

Rusty one little tip, I bought a Hornady Lock & Load case prep station after my old Lyman trimmer wore out. I like it very much and have run about 2000 cases through it. It has the trimmer also deburring tools and the case mouth brush on it, all powered. Before that I had an RCBS case center and it worked all right, but the Hornady is solider and runs much quiter plus it has the trimmer built in.

I also agree with the others about working cases in bigger lots for each step. I have a Lyman 1200 II powder handler and have been using it for 5 or 6 years and I really like it.

Like Keeki I have been loading for a long time (since 1965) and have learned some expensive lessions. I too started with a simple loader on the kitchen table and now have 6 presses set up and 2 others I can setup when needed, plus all kinds of other mechines.

You might not like my opinion on this topic, but... I think that anything that Lee has to offer is junk. In my opinion the best press on the market is the Redding UltraMag, the second is the RCBS Rockchucker. I would also recommend the Redding T-7 Turret Press. I have one and it is the cat's meow. The best most accurate case trimmer on the market is the Wilson/Sinclair Ultimate Trimmer. It is a mini lathe that uses case holders to insure every thing is in line and square. There is a micrometer adjustment stop so you can record your trim length and repeat it later when needed. There are inside neck reamers and a lot of other things that are available for it. Look in the Sinclair cat.. I prefer Redding Dies followed by Forster, then RCBS. I agree with the others on the tumbler with stainless steel pins. Powder Balances Dillon, Redding, RCBS. Powder measures Harrell then Redding.
Best regards,
Grit

For handgun I use a Uniflow Powder Measure, but for Rifle I use a dipper with a trickle charger. I can get spot on with the scale like that. For a poor mans tickler, Use a empty shell case (with used primer in it) and trickle powder into the scale to hit your mark. Just roll it between your fingers as it is horizontal to the scale pan. You can still use the powder drop, but think as it is your base measure. I would drop into a case and then pour from case to scale pan. It will be more controlled that way. Don't forget about a digital caliper to measure you case and cartage size. I also like to use different color plastic ammo boxes for different calibers. I also prefer a case lube pad over "one shot" for case lube.
+1 on the Layman de-bur tool. I got mine at Sportsmans Warehouse for about $16.

You have a rifle for precision, Take the time to make the ammo contestant and it will show in your groups. You are already a head of most people out there.

Alright, taking some of you guys advice, I added tricklers to the list (I'll be using the powder measure to dispense large amounts of powder, and use the tricklers to get where I want).

What do you guys think about the L. E. Wilson trimmer and their deburring/chamfer tool? I heard they were a great company for reloading equipment, figured I'd give them a shot.

What do you guys think about using Ramshot powder for these calibers? I've heard they perform well and are ball powders, so it should meter well in the perfect powder measure.

Buy the best you can afford.If you're not skimping on rifle components,why do it on reloading equipment.Like they say,it's better to only cry once.

Rusty,
On your reloading components:
- 7mm-08 , #1 Varget , #2 RL-15, Fed 210M (large rifle, match)
- 30-06 , #1 IMR4350 Fed, 210M
- 300WSM , #1 H4831sc #2 IMR4831, #3 RL-19 for the 180 gr bullets, Fed 210M or Fed 215M primers. You may have some trouble with the 208gr AMAX - you are going to give up ALOT of case capacity with that bullet...its just too long for a wsm type case.

No idea about loading for a 270.....

Brass - buy the best you can afford. That means Norma for the 7mm-08 and 300WSM, Lapua for the 30-06. Buy once, cry once - it will save you untold headaches trying to get concentric cases.

Dies - If Forster makes the, I buy them. The design of the expander ball and shaft on the sizing die is much better than RCBS and the price difference is minimal. Forster's seating die is a stepchange better than RCBS also....

You don't need magnum primers for any of the calibers you listed, unless you use ball-type powders in the 300WSM.

I've had exactly 5 misfires/hangfires over the last 10 years of active shooting/reloading (probably 10k+ rounds, not including unknown AR plinking). One of them was with a WLR primer and ball type powder in a WSM (my fault, bad idea). The other 4 were all CCI primers in a variety of 308 class (243,7mm-08, 260) cases + 22-250's + 30-06 + 30-378 Wby. I've shot about 200 CCI primers and the rest have been Fed 210M or Fed 215M.

Those odds; 4/200 for CCI and 0/9800+ for Fed 210M have kept me in the Fed camp for primers........they can be hard to find sometimes, but I stock up on them when I find them....
Elkbane

edited the op with my final set up, thanks guys

Yes the Lyman VLD deburr tools are the bomb.
Yes yhe RCBS charmaster and digital scale are the bomb.
The Wilson deburring tool is good to go.
I would suggest that you include a tool that measures the case headspace and a stoney point.
I too like RCBS but have and use Lee Collet sizer dies and bullet seaters
7mm08 140 gamekings are good for a 1 hole group out of my "shaw" barrel
270 likes 47 grains of 4064 for sub moa out past 200