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Machined an Action Wrench out of 3/8" Aluminum. It doesn't split open and get bolted onto the action.
It just slides down the barrel like the nut wrench.
There's a recessed area for the fwd scope mount, so the wrench can be centered on the lug.
I just set the action on my bench to change barrels, no vise needed.
Here's a photo:
http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/47...425x425Q85.jpg
JR
if your going to sell them
put my name on the list
drybean
I want one too. Which recoil lug is it patterned after?
Thats pretty much the same idea I had! My idea was to have the factory style cut out on one end and on the other end the aftermarket square style cutouts also a 1/2'' square on each end for the breaker bar.
i guess i dont understand with the closed end how do you slide it down the barrel to the nut and get it past the scope mounts?
thanks
bob
it doesnt have to go past the scope mounts since you are sliding it on from the muzzle end of the barrel, just like you do with the nut wrench. The recessed area for the base he mentions is incase you have a front scope base that hangs slightly over the lug. That recess allows him to still get centered on the lug so the wrench doesnt slip off.Quote:
Originally Posted by cwop
Looks like youd still have to remove the base if it was an EGW base that hangs well over the lug and nut though.
is this designed to bind on the recoil lug to resist rotating? Has anyone ever broken the protrusion on the recoil lug while utilizing it to hold the action stationary?
You would also still need to remove the front scope base screw as they are almost always touching the barrel threads.
Me too!Quote:
Originally Posted by drybean
I cut up my barrel nut wrench to look like a spanner wrench. But i dont use those egw bases. I use DNZ mounts so it doesnt stretch over the barrel nut. My wrench fits over the barrel right in front of the barrel nut and works like a charm even w my scope still attached.
Brian
Same here. I still use an un-modified wrench for the first time that the nut is removed but the 'spanner' works fine after that.Quote:
Originally Posted by airaddict
I do like the design of this one and also share the concern about the locating pin shearing off.
This last action i stripped apart i actually used the modified wrench on and it worked. I prob should have soaked some kroil on the nut but once i got the vice tight enough to stop it from turning it came off with a few sharp taps with a ball peen hammer. The nut jor the wrench was damaged. But i think i got lucky on that one.
Brian
I looked at the same design over a year ago. Too much concern for damage to the alignment pin on the precision ground recoil lugs. The alignment pins are installed using an extremely small machine screw that has a slightly undercut shank just under the head (better draw down). Additional concern, when the alignment pin shears, will an uneven break and resulting protrusion be able to damage the face of the receiver. We decided the likelyhood of either event was reason enough to look into other options.
We are doing prototype tests on a rear entry wrench that will allow disassembly without removal of scopes or bases. More information on this new product as things progress.
Jim Briggs
NSS
I use a couple rear entry style wrenches for all of my non-factory tight nuts. Factory tight still gets the wheeler wrench.
My first rear entry wrench I made was from a slab of stainless. IIRC it is 1" wide by 7/16" thick and about a foot long. I chucked it up in the lathe and knocked the edges off so that it was about 1 inch "round". I put it in a vise and an action will slide over the top of it.
I also made another from same piece of bar. It is only about 1.5" long tig welded to an old 3/8 drive socket. I don't remember the size of the socket, but it is small enough to fit through the bolt raceway. I angled the socket so I could use it with a small breaker bar through the port, or with an extension out the back of the action. They both work really well.
Arent the newer savages coming out with factory recoil lugs with no locator pin? My last accustock model had no pin on its recoil lug but im not sure if its specific to thos models just cuz of the aluminum bedding rail.
Brian
Hey Jim,
Now that theres alot of Savages out there with the smooth barrel nut, have you considered having wrenches made for a smooth nut on one end and the standard nut for the other end?
It would be nice to have one tool to do both styles. I know with my current SSS nut wrench I have never used the one end of it that fits the earlier style nuts.
Here's a photo of the wrench on my 116 action, showing the detent on the recoil lug and the recess for the scope mount.
Good thoughts from Jim. If your barrel nut is extremely tight, large forces could transfer to the alignment pin, causing failure. I torque to 40 ft-lbs with no issues so far on the "stock" recoil lug. The aftermarket lug could be different.
http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/49...425x425Q85.jpg
JR
I'm using the square and round slotted nuts. It's just a matter of time before I need a smooth wrench.Quote:
Originally Posted by pdog06
Maybe a 3-sided wrench? ;D
I have not looked at any type of a "Smooth" barrel nut wrench. Fred (SSS) has a smooth barrel nut wrench that does do a decent job. Most customers are taking off the smooth nuts with a pipe wrench and reinstalling a standard nut when they put everything back together. I know that this is the most popular way as Savage has my barrel nut order back ordered now for over three weeks, they finally got more in so I have my parts orders coming next week.
Jim Briggs
NSS
Whut?Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric in NC
I always count the number of turns on each screw to make sure they do not bottom out on the
barrel threads or anywhere else. If one does, a thread or two gets ground down. Thought
everyone did this?