Throw away!?

So I've had this stock for over 2 years. These past several months I've finally got around to finishing the stock. It's a Richards Microfit Marksman stock.

Not wanting to go into ALL the issues I've had with this stock, I've had two new ones that came up today that has me worried that I'm going to have to throw it away.

To get the bottom metal to fit and for the magazine release to work I've had to remove a lot of wood between the magazine well and the front action screw hole as seen in the picture.

[img width=574 height=768]http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/4821/photo2lq.jpg[/img]

I still think I have to remove more material so that the magazine will release and seat properly. Is this going to be an issue? I am going to pillar bed with Devcon. Will the Devcon provide enough structeral support?

So after two years, I finally was able to assemble the gun (nevermind the horrible job I did to open up the magazine well becuase it was inletted about 1/4" too short (long ways)) and as I'm tightening the rear action screw I can hear wood cracking (crack circled in red).

[img width=574 height=768]http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/6962/photohqy.jpg[/img]

Again, I'm going to pillar bed with Devcon so is this going to be a major issue?

I really don't want to throw it away with all the work and money that I've put into but if it's going to affect accuracy, then I guess I will have to.

Thanks!

If it's not a heavy recoiling chambering, you should be alright. you can put a heavy staple over the crack before you bed it, just drill the holes for the staple, and then counter sink it. Or you could put a recoil cross pin in it. Cross pinning would be best if it's a heavy recoiling round. But no don't throw it away. There are hundreds of stocks out there, that were alot worse off than that, and are just fine.

It's for a 270 WSM. I guess I'll have to look up what cross pinning is.

I've got 2 Richards stocks that also have the same issue with the inletting being too short, just like you described, and alot of material removed. I have not finished either yet, and I was concerned too about removing too much material. I'll probably fill in the void with extra bedding material. You could cross pin the stock very cheaply by drilling a hole horizontally through the area behind the recoil lug and front action screw, and bedding something like a 1/4" steel rod through the stock. Grind down the steel that protrudes outside the stock, cold blue the metal and you. Look up what a mauser stock bolt looks like for a similar concept.

your stock probably cracked there for two reasons. (1) being thet lack of wood at the action screws and no pillars, and (2) being that the action isnt sitting properly in the stock. If the bottom of the action isnt sitting solid on the stock it will pull down when you tighten the screws, which will spread apart the bedding area of the stock, hence splitting it in the weakest spot.

I had this happen to a brand new VLP stock so I am familiar with this as well. Yours can be fixed with proper bedding, but will also need some metal or something bedded across the split as well to make it right. I had my smith mill out a groove around the pillar andplace in a pc of metal with a j-hook on each end, then bedded the pillars and the repair all at the same time, while also clamping the stock together. I'll see if i can find my pictures of the repair to give you a visual o f what I mean.

That screw is used to hold the back of the gun into the stock. Pillars will hold the action screw from crushing the wood in that area and support the action. If the lug in doing its job the screw is not being used to absorb recoil. Pillars and a good bed job will make the Lug do its job and leave you in good shape. Easy non worry fix!

pdog06: After it happend, I realized that it cracked becuase I had already removed wood for the bedding material and when I did the first fitting of all the components I got too excited tightening the rear action screw. If you have any pictures of how you fixed yours that would be great!

Blue Avenger: I figured that when I pillar bed and bed the action that there shouldn't be any downward stress that should make the stock split at the crack. I do plan on putting a staple or something to strengthen or reiforce the weak area.

I'm just glad I don't have to throw it away and start all over again. Now I just have to live with the horrible inleting job I did to get the bottom metal to fit. :(

The best part is after you glass and pillar bed it, you won't see the inletting job.

Sorry if I'm too late to the party...

As a shooter I'm still a novice and soak up a lot of information from the guys/girls on this site but in this case I can help.

As a wood turner things often crack just before you finish or right after you should have finished turning. There are two common fixes,

Drilling or notching and plugging- drill out, cut out the damage and fit a snug plug glue and re-shape. You could use a wooden dowel to cross pin too. Not as durable as steel but the re-coil lug will take the brunt of the force.

or

With small tight cracks use thin CA (superglue), it looks like the crack in your stock is tight enough for this. CA off gasses a bit as it cures and some people are sensitive to it, so do it with god ventilation. Soak the area well with CA you can open the crack slightly if its not too difficult to do but close it up as soon as you get glue into the crack as it hardens quickly on dry wood.

Garett