Got a problem.

So went to shoot my 110 in .30-06 the other day. Previous times on the bench went well. This time I had 6 rnds with me for testing...4 of the six didnt shoot. The past few days I have tried to shoot with similar results.

Pics of an unfired bullet
[img width=573 height=768]http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/jgloveracob/photo-4.jpg[/img]

[img width=573 height=768]http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/jgloveracob/photo-1.jpg[/img]

[img width=573 height=768]http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/jgloveracob/photo.jpg[/img]


My first thoughts was the primer pockets were drilled too deep, this may still be true but then I looked at firing pin protrusion and found this..

[img width=573 height=768]http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/jgloveracob/photo-3.jpg[/img]

[img width=573 height=768]http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb406/jgloveracob/photo-2.jpg[/img]


I dont know if you can see or not but its barley sticking out.

So my question is... Do you think its the brass or the firing pin? Can I adjust the pin or is it time for a new one?

You will need to release the firing pin by rotating the button on the side of the bolt until it has move all the way down towards the head end if you want to acuratelyy measur protrusion. You might want to loosen the BAS before you do that..when you back out the BAS you relieve some tension so you can recock the bolt for entry back into the reciever. My questions center more around case prep. What is your process after you install the primers. Any cleaner can ruin a primer if it enters through the mouth of the case. Are you surethere was powder in the case. When I reload a block of cases before I go to the bullet station I take a flashlight andlook for powder in every case....it happens.

The firing pin is in its fully forward position in the pics. After brass comes out of the tumbler its checked for grit in the flash hole and wiped down. Its then primed with an RCBS hand priming tool. I then hand measure every powder charge, so thats not the problem.

I swapped bolts from an old .243 and it only failed to fire one. I took that one and pulled it, and reloaded the primer into a 7-30 waters TC Contender, It fired.
I'm now 80% sure its the Firing pin protrusion...So how do I adjust it?

Forgive my poor teminoligy as I am not a pro and my bolt jargon leaves something to be desired. When you finish adjusting the pin the button should not be against the edge of the triangular slot. I think I heard .020 clearance when pin is in the forward position.
Remove the BAS and slide the FP assembly out. You will notice that there are a set of notched nuts and washers on either end of the spring. There are flats milled on the pin that act as antirotation for the spring nut locks. Wrap a rag around the spring on the primer end for protection. Use some pliers and lightly squese on the spring with the BAS end on a workbench, compress the spring without damaging it. Let the lock washer fall away from the nut...the nothched pieces need to be seperated, now rotate the nut clockwise a few rotations. Release the spring and reassemble the bolt. Measure protrusion. For exact amount of adjustment you can devide the number of threads into 1000 and you will have the thousandths per 360* rotation. Divide the number of notches in the nut into that number and you have the amount each notch moves the pin.(I used to know all of that but I am ugly and ugly people can't remember stuff like that.)

Test and repeat until you have approximately .050 to .062. (some may say the high end some the lower end of that dimension).

looks like the tip broke off

Wow, You got that from those pictures!!!!!... What else could it be. The primers have been struck, currently there is no protrusion...By golly look a little closer. A better pictur would prove it. You will still need those instructions if you need to replace the pin. Take some measurements and jot them down as a starting place if you do.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stangfish

Forgive my poor teminoligy as I am not a pro and my bolt jargon leaves something to be desired. When you finish adjusting the pin the button should not be against the edge of the triangular slot. I think I heard .020 clearance when pin is in the forward position.
Remove the BAS and slide the FP assembly out. You will notice that there are a set of notched nuts and washers on either end of the spring. There are flats milled on the pin that act as antirotation for the spring nut locks. Wrap a rag around the spring on the primer end for protection. Use some pliers and lightly squese on the spring with the BAS end on a workbench, compress the spring without damaging it. Let the lock washer fall away from the nut...the nothched pieces need to be seperated, now rotate the nut clockwise a few rotations. Release the spring and reassemble the bolt. Measure protrusion. For exact amount of adjustment you can devide the number of threads into 1000 and you will have the thousandths per 360* rotation. Divide the number of notches in the nut into that number and you have the amount each notch moves the pin.(I used to know all of that but I am ugly and ugly people can't remember stuff like that.)

Test and repeat until you have approximately .050 to .062. (some may say the high end some the lower end of that dimension).

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Looking at the last picture, it appears the FP protrusion is no where near factory specs.

+1. To relax spring pressure, I use an electricians crimper, it's so much easier to hold the spring in place while making the nut adjustments.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blue Avenger

looks like the tip broke off

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thats what it looks like to me as well.

The tip wasn't broke its just a bad picture. I adjusted the pin to where i thought was good. Fired 10 shots without a problem.
Thanks Guys.