New to me 10fp

Hello,

A while back I posted asking about a savage 10fp or if I should build a rifle up from a 200 action. Well my answer was made for me when I was at a gun show this morning. I came across a barely used 10fp in 308W with the b&c medalist stock, a set of knockoff badger rings, and a mueller tactical scope. The scope is not much to write home about but the price out the door was about $650. The guy was selling it on consignment and needed money for a new baby and new house. This is the exact rifle I was going to build or buy and almost couldn't get my wallet out of my pocket fast enough to pay for it. Can't wait to pick it up tomorrow.

Matt

Sounds like a good deal. Make sure barrel and tang are free floated and go give it a try.

El Lobo

Quote:

---

Make sure barrel and tang are free floated and go give it a try

---

Some people have all the luck!!!!!

All I did with mine was the above and it's one of the best shooters I have!

[img width=600 height=358]http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss143/Matt3357/100MEDIA36IMAG0188.jpg[/img]

Here she is. Got her home and cleaned up a bit after shooting 5 shots in the rain. Shot pretty good seeing as how I was getting poured on, my shooting bench was way too small for this rifle with a bipod, I hadn't ever shot a 308, and I was shooting cheap winchester ammo.

I think it will be a keeper thats for sure. Now what are you talking about free floating the tang? I understand the barrel, but not the tang.

Also, I read some where about someone doing the 38spl case and ball bearing trick to help bolt lift. Do you know what trick he is talking about?

I also experienced an issue with the accutrigger that I had read about before. I accidentally put side pressure on the trigger and it clicked but did not fire and the trigger locked up until I opened the bolt. I think I am in line for an after market, any recommendations?

Thanks,
Matt

If the Mueller has not been abused, you may find that it is more to write home about than some scopes costing a lot more.

I know some do not like the Accutrigger but if it is used correctly it is a good trigger. Before you change it get used to it and learn to use it the right way first.

have the same rifle, same stock, different color, different scope set up. you have to pull straight back. i read an article on the accutrigger that using the pad of your index finger instead of the first knuckle notch will greatly improve your trigger pull, it is just remembering to use the pad when that once in a lifetime shot comes up. i would blame it on the rain and needing a 2x4 extension on your bench!!

Matt,
Haven't heard of the "ball bearing" trick. But here is what helped some of my Savages.
The rear-most baffle on the bolt, the one that touches the bolt handle. It has a ramp, that the bolt handle rides against; to give you some mechanical advantage. The angles where the baffle, and the bolt handle meet are RARELY matched very well. I hate to say Dremel, because people like to hog metal away... But get a dremel and polish, or smooth the engaging surfaces. Make sure that they meet with no edges, or partial contact areas.
That will do the most for the bolt lift. You can also polish the groove in the bolt body where the cocking pin rides, but that is not the bulk of the rub ususally.

As to the accutrigger, Savage has a REAL QC issue with them, as far as consistency. With all of mine, what is typically the case(especially with someone's used gun) is that it is out of adjustment.
Usually two things:

1: the adjustment is too light, so the force of the sear blade trips the trigger before you fully dissengage it. So just turn the adjustment screw up to more weight.
2: They tried to polish(means they filed) the engagement surfaces. They got the angles wrong; the accu-triggers are crappy potmetal, and wear quickly after the surface is taken down. For this, you usually have to replace parts, or really crank the adjustment weight up.