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I read on one thread how to take savage bolt apart, it metion ed an allen screw at the back of the bolt. My 111 hunter has something different looking about it. http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...y162011035.jpg Half of my cases don't eject they just lay in the bottom of the clip. Do I need to take the whole bolt apart to change ejector spring or is this the problem? New at using computer and posting not quite sure how to insert pictures into topic. Any help will be appreciated.
To start you don't need to take the bolt apart to remove the ejector, it is done by pushing the pin out of the bolt head. To take your bolt apart you need to de-cock it, then you can insert a allen wrench in the back, and remove the Back screw.
small hole is where the cross pin is located that holds the ejector...[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/gunsmith/savagebolt009.jpg[/img]
It could be an extractor issue, but ejector is fine...
Thanks for the info, how would one find out if which one the extractor or the ejector is bad and where is the best place to get parts. I heard something about a larger ball on the extractor. Also is lapping bolt head hard to do. two rear corners on each locking lug have pits in them.
Here is a picture of Bolt it has these pits on both sides.
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...y162011040.jpg
Well to start, ejection probems are prevalent in Savage rifles. The problem is caused by oversized tolerances in the making of bolt heads. This 2 threads from the FAQs section should explain and get you started on the fix.Quote:
Originally Posted by robert d
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,23731.0.html
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,15070.0.html
It is possible to do both of them tricks and still have extraction problems and that would require purchasing a new bolt head. This is also a gamble, you may have to go through a couple until you find one that works. I can't say I have seen a bolt head that has gouges in it like the one you have pictured. The bolt heads are suppose to have a slight rounding in the area you have pictured. The gun you have looks to be newer I would call Savage and tell them the problems before you go off and modify the gun. On bolt lug lapping, it is not necessary (And is a wast of time.) on a Savage rifle, do to the floating bolt head design.
Thanks for the threads espeacily the part about lapping the bolt. I sent this gun back to savage once because of ejector problems and vertical
stringing. Savage replaced apart in the gun just had part # then they shot 125gr balistic tip at 1/2 inch. I really didn't buy this gun longrange hunter 1-8twist to shoot that light of bullet, I all ready have mod 70 with 1-10 twist that does that. I wanted longer range balistics like with berger 140vld or the hornady 140 or sie btspt 140 prefer bergers. My first savage f-class 6.5x284 went back because six inches of rifling was missing about half way down barrel. The one they sent back is a tack driver 1/2 inch groups with all kinds of loads but some shoot .2 more often than not.
I bought 7-08 youth model for my daughter it shoots under 1inch using varget powder. I know savage is a good company I like there guns and what there doing. But I thought they would have look at my gun a little closer the piting at back of recoil lug bothers me. This rifle also builds preasure before before all load data buy at least 2gr. with most powders. It will shoot under an inch though just tempermental, a lot of that could be me not as steady as I used to be. Thank-You for your help kind of new to this game.
Hi Robert, what caliber is your rifle? 260 rem or 6.5X284? You say they tested it, what code was it marked on the evaluation report?
Its a 6.5x284 code (A) Service invoice says Item no. SER001 repaair 1 each, SER034C clean and check complete bolt action,SER018C replace small parts 1 each,SER065C boresight only(bolt action),SER211C functionfire_passed,SER213Ctarget_passed 100yds The load was 120gr.nosler ballistic tip. 3shots .5
It just looks like that piece got chipped off and it wasn't you who first cycle that bolt. Robert, do you have a way to remove barrel and look at the front of the receiver, there should be proportional cuts on both ends. I'll get picture later what they look like. It seems that one of them wasn't cut right or maybe you chipped something on the other end
This 111 hunter has smooth barrel nut, It must take a special wrench. I also don't have go nogo gauge but I here there are ways to get around that.
The pitting is the same on other locking lug diagonally across from each other.I have never taken a savage apart but it sounds like its not to hard to do.
Rober, here it is, that's 111 model, so you receiver should have the same cuts to lock bolt. You could use a angled mirror like one dentist use to take a peek. See if you don't have any abnormalities, chipped metal or burrs.
[img width=536 height=450]http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/6397/sav111act.jpg[/img]
I see the cut outs your talking about I'll get a mirror and good light and take a look and let you know what I find out sure like this trouble shooting keeps me from getting bored keeps me learning new things Thanks for your time and help. This Guy always comes out when I start shooting and hangs out guarding his home. If I could send him down to take a look might save me some time.
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...y162011031.jpg ; D
I'm having eject problem on my 12 LRPV, as soon as brass exits chamber it falls out, but this is single shot and I don't like when brass flies far out, so this flaw does work for me...
Your right the extrator problem is a flaw I could get used to even in a hunting rifle. Normally as i draw the bolt back I put my finger on the shell with a little pressure so that doesn't hit top of action then take my finger off and it drops right into my hand. Your right I don't like them to flip away from me either, But I don't want to dig for them either in a hunting condition. Even tilting the gun alitttle and letting them fall out is all right with me. I just don't want it to let loose while still in chamber and I have to fumble around tring to get it out. If there a easy fix I don't mind working on it to get it a little better. Thanks for your input.