Unable to zero new rile

Hi
i have a new 64 fxvp that came with a weaver scope from the factory. I tried to zero at the range but cant even hit the paper. I checked to see if it was properly bore-sited and I can’t get the dot to come to the center of the crosshairs. I run out of elevation adjustment on the turret before centering. So my question is is the scope faulty or is it just mounted improperly? Not going to send it back for warranty work, not going to play the 6-8 month turn around game. Ive never mounted a scope myself thats why im asking.
thanks
ken

Did the scope come already mounted?

Distance shooting? 10 yards at a piece of news print or gift wrap paper? Get some idea of where its going. Fire a couple shots to make sure it repeats. Then make an extreme change in the direction needed and see if it moves at all. proceed from there. More then likely your going shopping. 1" tube and new rings will give a larger field of view. THE BORE IS CLEAR RIGHT? LOL

You can also try spinning the turrets from one extreme to other several times.

Also if the windage turret is maxed out to one side or the other, then you may not be able to get your full elevation range.

Also, like previos poster mentioned, if you're trying to zero at a really close, or really far distance, then you may naturally run out of elevation. For instance, zero at 10 yds requires making up scope-to-bore height, day 1.6" in 10 yards. That would require 16 moa of up adjustment. Assuming scope is optically centered to start, and there is no barrel droop, then you should be able to get there with most scopes. But say your rifle has 10 moa of droop, then you would need 26 moa of up adjust, and some scopes may run out of range. Just an example.

When you say you can't get the dot centered on the crosshairs are you using the laser thing that's in the muzzle ? Those are only good for getting on paper. 10 yards is too close to adjust the scope, if you get within a few inches at 10 you should move to 25 or more. 50 would be ideal but as said above you need a large piece of paper to see where the hits are going.
As for the scope, you should run each turret to the end of one adjustment then count cliks to the other end. Then go back 1/2 that number. Do this for each turret so they are approximately centered. This will give you a good starting point. AND make sure the mounts are secure and loctited to the receiver - I've had new rifles from S that were loose and so have others. Then make sure the scope is properly level and square with the rifle and the Horizon. Even at close range if it is noticeably out of square (canted) that may be your problem.
Just some guesses w/o pics or even the size of your scope and whether the scope 'came' mounted.

the scope came mounted and supposedly bore sighted from factory. everything feels tight as far as rings and scope go. it is a 3-9x40 weaver scope. yes i am talking about the laser on the end of the barrel.
i think im just going to take to a smith and have them check everything over. i was shooting at 75 yards, at a 12” paper target.
ive zeroed other scopes and never had this issue before

Well, the 'bore-sighting' done by factory may not have been very accurate - just 'side of a barn' ? Yes, if you're not comfortable with checking the mounting and turrets it might be best to go to a 'smith. Try to use someone Not a 'big box' like Cabelas. You'll get a more personal service attitude from an 'independent' FFL.
At 75 yds it's hard to check Zero if you didn't get it 'close' at 25 or so. If you can maybe check Z at closer range b4 you go to the smith. I always start at close range an try to get 1" groups - shoot 10 rounds at the target, then move your aim 4-6" and do it again. The repeatablility of the hits has to be consistent b4you try to Z at distance.
BTW - If you get a good Zero at 20 or 25, you should be hitting within an inch up to about 70 yds or so.
https://savannaharsenal.com/2014/08/...-22lr-rifle-2/

As a baseline - i.e., 1.6" scope-to-bore height, no barrel droop/rise, no crazy harmonics, with 1100 fps ammo - at 75 yd , the crosshair should be below the laser dot 8.9 " for it to be zeroed. You have to make up the 1.6" scope-to-bore height, and the 8.9" bullet ballistic drop. Even if you have the crosshair on top of the laser dot, you will have compensated for the Scope-to-bore height, but still hit 8.9" low because of the bullet drop.

thanks everyone

My M10 came with bases and rings. I swapped them out for Warne bases & rings before ever shooting it - and found the front base wasn't tight to the receiver. That likely would have been a gremlin for hoding zero.

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Originally Posted by brokefootkeny

Hi
i have a new 64 fxvp that came with a weaver scope from the factory. I tried to zero at the range but cant even hit the paper. I checked to see if it was properly bore-sited and I can’t get the dot to come to the center of the crosshairs. I run out of elevation adjustment on the turret before centering. So my question is is the scope faulty or is it just mounted improperly? Not going to send it back for warranty work, not going to play the 6-8 month turn around game. Ive never mounted a scope myself thats why im asking.
thanks
ken

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I know how exasperating this can be even though I have not had that problem - my neighbor did and he had a similar set up as yours with the factory scope. First, as fasteddie has indicated 75 yards is to far to set zero. He suggests 25 yards and I agree. In my neighbors situation we couldn't get on paper at 25 yards. Additionally, as in your situation, we couldn't get the bore sighter to match with the scope. Our range has about 12 pistol/rifle ranges from 15 yards out to 200 yards. Since we couldn't get on paper we decided to place a can on the berm and shoot from 25 yards. Before that we center the knobs, as suggested, by cranking them to the stop and backing off to center. One shot told the story - we were so far to the left and high it's no wonder we couldn't get on paper. Now we knew which way to adjust but ran out of adjustment. Went home (range is 10 minutes away) and changed the scope and bore sighted it. 5 shots later we had a perfect zero. It was the scope. The profit margin on $175 rifle with scope included is not great - the rifle might be quality but the scope isn't.

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Originally Posted by brokefootkeny

Hi
Ive never mounted a scope myself thats why im asking.
thanks
ken

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When I started years ago fooling around with rifles & scope I didn't know how to mount a scope either but I wasn't going to pay someone to do what I could easily learn to do. No one was born with scope mounting knowledge. There are a million youtube video's on the subject. You can mount the scope with a minimum of equipment such as a decent vice, a cheap level and a set or wrenches plus the torque values - I have a torque wrench but you can get away without it. Championship shooter won't be calling you to mount their scopes but you'll be good enough for the average non competitive shooter.

Put that "bore sighter" device back on the shelf to remove it from the equation and go old school.
Many boresight devices just plain and simple are made to lighten shooters pockets and don't work.

First set up a sight in target with 1" squares at 100 yards.
Then put the rifle in a rest, cradle or sand bag it to hold her still.
Now pull the bolt from the action and look down the barrel through the bore and center it on the target, when doing this make sure the rings of light you can see down the bore are concentric and even with the targets bullseye centered in the bore.
Studying carefully look back and forth between the bore and the scope until you can see the bullseye is centered in the concentric rings of light shining off the bore and the cross hairs have been moved to the bullseye as well.
Move the target to 50 yards, make sure the rifle is good and steady and fire one shot. It should now be easily on the paper.
Steady the rifle again and center the crosshairs on the bullseye. With the rifle absolutely still move the crosshairs to the bullet hole you just shot. ( sometimes it helps to have someone else turn the dials)
If you successfully held it steady and moved the crosshairs to the bullet hole then the rifle should now be zeroed.
Shoot a couple more to confirm and make small adjustments as necessary.
If you get a few shots in and its wandering then stop. Ammo is expensive. You most likely have a problem with the scope or mounts.

This can also be done by doing the old school bore sighting part by looking out a window at most any distant object and centering it in the bore and moving the crosshairs to that object. The further the better.
Good Luck

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Originally Posted by big honkin jeep

Put that "bore sighter" device back on the shelf to remove it from the equation and go old school.
Many boresight devices just plain and simple are made to lighten shooters pockets and don't work.

First set up a sight in target with 1" squares at 100 yards.
Then put the rifle in a rest, cradle or sand bag it to hold her still.
Now pull the bolt from the action and look down the barrel through the bore and center it on the target, when doing this make sure the rings of light you can see down the bore are concentric and even with the targets bullseye centered in the bore.
Studying carefully look back and forth between the bore and the scope until you can see the bullseye is centered in the concentric rings of light shining off the bore and the cross hairs have been moved to the bullseye as well.
Move the target to 50 yards, make sure the rifle is good and steady and fire one shot. It should now be easily on the paper.
Steady the rifle again and center the crosshairs on the bullseye. With the rifle absolutely still move the crosshairs to the bullet hole you just shot. ( sometimes it helps to have someone else turn the dials)
If you successfully held it steady and moved the crosshairs to the bullet hole then the rifle should now be zeroed.
Shoot a couple more to confirm and make small adjustments as necessary.
If you get a few shots in and its wandering then stop. Ammo is expensive. You most likely have a problem with the scope or mounts.

This can also be done by doing the old school bore sighting part by looking out a window at most any distant object and centering it in the bore and moving the crosshairs to that object. The further the better.
Good Luck

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Actually, that was my first thought if the 64 FXVP was a bolt action rifle but I think it's a semi auto and he may or may not be able to see down the barrel when the bolt is removed. If he can, your method would be a quick & easy solution. My Sight Mark Bore Sighter is a pretty accurate devise but it did lighten my pocket - a lot!!

so to update everyone…. just back from the local smith, scope was never leveled properly at factory as well as the bases were loose and the rings were loose at the bases and on the scope. overall a very crappy job at the factory. now to get to the range and get it dialed in!

Good to hear that you've got this solved !!
I have an 'older' 64 and they're great little rifles - AND easy to take down and clean, too !

I'm gonna chime in one last time regarding the bore sighting. You're working with a 22LR, not a centerfire. The ballistic drop on a 22LR could be almost 9" at 75 yards. A centerfire wouldn't be more 2-3". So ..... if you want to make it easier, do the bore sighting, BUT go ahead and put your crosshair about 9" below the bore center. You mentioned shooting at 12" target, which is 6" real estate above and below bull. If you set that crosshair on the bore center, you could still be off paper low.

And I don't know if y'all realize, but the 64 is a semi, so he may be locked into the laser thing, or just moving closer.

thanks for the help and suggestions, ill let you know how it goes at the range

I want to disagree with members suggesting 100yard sight-in. You should start at 25 so you're 'On Paper', and able to get a small (UNDER 1" ) group of 5-shots. Once you have that 'zero' move out to your 50 yard and work on getting that 1" group there. At 75 yards you'll be lucky to get a 2" group using that 3-9x scope - it's hard to see/hold aim at a small point with even 9x. I have a 6-24x50mm SF-FFP Covenant-4 scope from Cabelas and at 100 I'm glad to keep under 2" for 10-shot groups. Ammo speed variations even for 'Better Quality' ammo can cause 1" or more vertical drift, and if there's even a light breeze that'll move you sideways.
Go and read the ZEROing article on Savannah Arsenal site I sent you to help explain this in more detail.

made it to the range today. started out at 9 yards, and got it dialed in. at 25 yards this rifle will put a full 10 round magazine almost in the same hole on the target! put holes 1” diameter i the target constantly, next week ill get to the longer range but so far this rifle “will kill” as doug mercaida on forged in fire says! looking forward to seeing what i can do with it at 100 yards.
thanks again for all the comments and ideas!

Awesome. Glad you got it worked out.

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Originally Posted by Francosonny1120

how to zero your gun at home without firing it is youre gonna need this specialized tool that you 99% wont have and will need to buy.

https://accuratelyshooting.com/best-...for-beginners/

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WTH is this link for ?? Do you know what you're talking about ?? The OP has the issue solved, anyway. DUH !!

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Originally Posted by Fasteddie01

WTH is this link for ?? Do you know what you're talking about ?? The OP has the issue solved, anyway. DUH !!

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Spammed him and then see there is a long, very long list of names attached to that IP