Savage 112 Model J .223

Hello, everyone
I am new to this site. I have 2 Savage Model 12's and shoot them both on a regular basis.
I just bought a 112 Model J in .223. Model J is the intermediate length action, longer than a short, shorter than a long. Rifle was born in 1976, according to Savage. That was all they could tell me about this rifle, as they said their records didn't go back that far. My question is, will a long action bolt face work on this bolt? I measured from face to center of retaining pin on my 2 short actions, they will not interchange. I don't have a long action that I can check. Reason is, I bought this for my 12 yr old nephew to learn on, maybe get him into competition. At some point in the future, I would like to rebarrel this rifle in a 6.5 mm cartridge, which would require a bolt head change. Can any one help me out, or maybe tell me where I can buy either a bolt head or a complete bolt for the Model J? Thanks in advance for your time and help.
Joeelvis




If you can't hit the side of a barn, move the barn.

Got a 110 V (J Model) in .223. It's bolt head has been swapped many times with no issues.
It's now a 6.8 SPC. Been a test bed for many caliber swaps.
Bolt head swap? No Problem. Nothing odd or fancy. Swapped bolt heads from short and long actions with no issues.
Mag rounds? Issues.

When was your 110 born? Is it a true long action, or an intermediate? This is one of the things I like about Savage, ease of barrel/caliber swap. I will definitely stay away from magnum rounds....

Can't remember the exact DOM but early 80s? It's an "inbetweener". (J) Longer than the now short actions and shorter than the now long actions.
Bolt body, scope mounts all odd sizes. Looked for a long time trying to find a scope mount that "fit" all the holes in the action. Covers some holes and didn't match some others.
Must have bought and returned 10 different mounts with no luck.
Finally got a mount that fit the front holes and another mount that fit the back.
Savage was known for odd ball hole mountings and not always straight. Hard to get the scope to mount straight.
Got a rear mount with the windage adjustment. Shipped both mounts off, had them cut and re welded together. Fits EVERY HOLE and looks like a factory mount. Funny how many $$$ we'll spend on our hobbies.;)

That's what mine is, an in-between-er. You said you had changed the bolt head on yours? Mine is a .223, from front of bolt head to center on retainer hole in the shaft doesn't match the short actions, waiting to hear what the measurment is on a true LA. I have em's out to several companies. Would probably order the PTG, if it will work. Thanks much for the info.
Joey

Yours and mine are "short actions". Done .308,6 and 22 BR just by swapping bolt heads. Seems like I did run into a long action bolt head one time.;)

You know, sometimes I wonder how I became an old man. I was measuring from the front of the bolt head to the center of the retaining pin hole. The J bolt head is about 80k thicker than the newer head. I measured from the back of the head to center of retaining pin hole, it is right on the money. So a SA bolt head will work. I wish I could blame it on the booze, but I haven't had a drink in 15 years! Oh well, now the search for a .308 bolt head begins. Thanks for your help. Jogged my brain loose, got me to thinking.....

Sometimes someone else looking at a situation comes up with a solution. ;)

Funny that you mention becoming an old man. The wife and I were talking about old folks and I'll be darned if it wasn't us!!
At least we don't have to be "teen agers" again.
We woke up this morning so we're on a roll.

The 110 short actions used a long action bolt head. The only difference between what they used then and now is the firing pin clearance hole is smaller on the new production AND the old ones have a notch in the tail that indexes the bolt head. You can either grind out the protrusion inside the bolt body, or notch the bolt head. You will still have to enlarge the firing pin hole.

From the Man that knows. :thumb: :cool:
And I have ground a few "index bumps".;)

I ordered a Pacific Tool bolt head, called them about the firing pin hole. They told me that unless it says bench rest in the description, it is a standard (large) hole. I also read a thread that said PTG heads are all small. I guess I will find out. They said they actually turned down the firing pin to cure the problem. A drill and fine garnet paper. I will grind out the "bump". Can the firing pin hole be drilled out to size? I really appreciate all the info. And, NOR CAL, you are only as old as you feel. At least, I keep telling myself that....

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Originally Posted by joeelvis

I ordered a Pacific Tool bolt head, called them about the firing pin hole. They told me that unless it says bench rest in the description, it is a standard (large) hole. I also read a thread that said PTG heads are all small. I guess I will find out. They said they actually turned down the firing pin to cure the problem. A drill and fine garnet paper. I will grind out the "bump". Can the firing pin hole be drilled out to size? I really appreciate all the info. And, NOR CAL, you are only as old as you feel. At least, I keep telling myself that....

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It should not be a problem drilling the hole out. I would go undersized first (#52 or 53)and see how much larger the hole is then the drill. Even better would be to polish the pin down to fit the head closely.

Also only use a new sharp drill bit. If you don't there is a possibility to drill oversize or for the drill to walk. Take it slow and keep it cool and lubricated. WD-40 is not lubrication for drilling in steel.

Thanks much, Robin. I would probably take it to my 'smith, as the lugs would need to be lapped. When I got this rifle, it looked like it had never been cleaned, I have never seen a firearm so cruddified. I tried to get the bolt apart, wasn't happening. Took it to JW, he had a hard time with it. Said the bolt was as filthy as the rest of the rifle, with congealed grease/oil in it. Probably had never been cleaned since leaving the factory. I just don't understand some people. Spent 3 hours cleaning barrel and action, went to the range, the rifle showed it's appreciation with some good groups. Taking my nephew to the range today, teaching him how to shoot a ladder load. Lapua brass, Sierra 53 gr HP Match. Again, thanks for your time and info. Like your tag, so true!

Good deal, my opinion is you don't need to lap the lugs on a savage. I got that idea from Fred Moreo on this forum. He is "the" renowned Savage Gunsmith. I did a few and realized no improvement.

I will still do any one piece bolt design. I have used the Brownel's GK5 and GK7 as well as some stuff found on amazon.take the BAS off and pull the cocking piece pin out, but leave the spring and pin inside or the bolt will come apart.

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And I have ground a few "index bumps"

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Yep!