Savage 110 trigger stoning?

Has anyone attempted this or know where I can find a write up. I did a forum search as well as a Google search with no luck.
Thanks.

I used a diamond file to remove any minor high spots (took only a couple of passes) then used a ceramic stone to polish the contact surface. They say not to do this because the factory trigger is basiclly pressed powder with a hardened surface. Now I may have just got lucky but the trigger has functioned flawlessly ever since I polished it and the sear. For the sear I used an Arkansas hard stone. I got the trigger to about 2.5 lb.

I don't know if my efforts did any good at all, it may have been the spring change, but the trigger feels good. For reliable results, Rifle Basix and Timney both sell replacement triggers that are capable of producing lighter trigger than a polished factory trigger.

It is best to have a jig to keep angles correct if you remove any material.

Google"Adjusting The Savage Trigger"...By Claude Gatewood.

I have worked on several, and it has not disrupted the surface hardening. You don't need to take of much. :-)

+1 on the jig. You can mess up a trigger real quick not having it straight. You want a safe trigger, not one with a mind of its own.

Be careful and go slow. I don't talk because I hard some one else say it, I learned from experience. Metal starts disappearing pretty quick in places you don't want it to if your not careful. Just set aside a couple hours so you can go step at a time and made sure the edges are nice and sharp. There is also negative, neutral and positive relationships between the trigger and sear so make sure you do some research on that to.