What's the proper way to time a used barrel with iron sights onto an action? Though I've been tinkering Savages for quite a while I haven't tried this yet. I found a barrel I'm interested in if it's not too much of a PITA. Thanks
Printable View
What's the proper way to time a used barrel with iron sights onto an action? Though I've been tinkering Savages for quite a while I haven't tried this yet. I found a barrel I'm interested in if it's not too much of a PITA. Thanks
What kind of barrel is it? What's it chambered for?
Have you tried just headspacing it and seeing how close it is to lining up?
i tried that with 2 different barrels on one of my actions and wasnt that close. the closest one was about 30 degrees off when headspaced properly. good luck, i hope yours works out!
I have done it by sanding down the recoil lug, and it worked out fine, I have also did the same to get the proper head space on a Remington.
Dean
I have no knowledge of how to index a barrel with sights, but I would think that you would need to extend/retract the bolt head to alter the head spacing. The sights have to be at 0 degrees (TDC) so one has to alter another part of the rifle to achive the correct head spacing. That would seem to be the bolt or bolt head?
You could ream the chamber if your sights are at a postion before 0 degrees.
As I understand it, after setting the headspace the barrel is roll stamped and drilled-tapped for sights if they're to be installed. Its why many times when swapping barrels between actions the stamping doesn't line up. I had some a 1/4 of turn off. Its the difference in actions and how the headspace was set at the factory, tight, loose or somewhere in between.Quote:
Originally Posted by big honkin jeep
Bill
It's not my savage scout barrel on eBay is it? 7.62x39?
I would think the only correct way to do it would be to rechamber the barrel. It would never take more than .050 in length to get the job done.
I think Dean may be on the right track to getting the sights to line up, seems like starting with a thick recoil lug and taking it down as needed may be the right route. but I'm not sure how sanding the recoil lug would affect the headspace. I'll have to clear my head to think about the geometry. Seems like a can of worms but I'd really like to know the proper way to get it done.
It's easy you just take off a little at a time, and check they alignment and head space every time, practice with an old recoil lug if you are not sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by big honkin jeep
Dean
When using a nut the lug has no affect setting the headspace.Quote:
Originally Posted by big honkin jeep
Bill
Thanks William
Dean
Sounds like a question for Fred!
Re-chamber is the only way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by geargrinder
I agree. He may get lucky, but as I said, rarely does the roll stamping line up when swapping a barrel from one action to another, sights wouldn't be any different.
With that said, if having sights isn't the reason for buying the barrel then remove them and install plug screws. They might not look the best but who cares. I've seen some installed proud, filed to the contour of the barrel and touch up blued, some done so good you had to look close to see them.
Bill
Once you plug the screw holes you could always have the sites refitted if it is important to you.
I've always been lucky when lining up the roll stamp or sights. Too bad it was always the bad luck. Never the good.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by BillPa
I would think that unless the sights were 180 degrees out it would not matter too much. If you are only a couple thousands tight or loose I would not think it was that big of a deal. I can't imagine that every go/ no go gauge set are exactly the same. I have several 308 rifles and none of them are the same as far as the chambers go. If I measure the brass after firing none of them are the same. I make sure that none of the brass gets mixed up. Fired brass goes into separate tubs that are marked for that particular rifle. The whole reloading process is done for the individual rifle. The three of them like different loads and seating depths. It's a PITA sometimes. I wish they were all interchangeable but so be it.