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Oil and wood
Ok we all know that oil can break down and soften wood over time so you're not supposed to get oil on your wood stocks. I oil/lube my guns with a very thin film and always have and wipe off the excess. I've always wiped a thin film of oil on the metal surfaces to protect them from corrosion and have never worried about it before. But I've been thinking more about it lately. If all metal surfaces should have a thin film of oil on them, then how are you supposed to totally keep any oil from coming in contact with the wood? I've always wiped down the bottom of my receivers when I had the stocks off and so far haven't seen any ill effects. Now granted, I don't have them soaked, or dripping but I'll put a couple drops in pivot points and a thin coat on the metal and wipe off excess. So I guess what I'm wondering is how much does it take to damage the wood? I know soaking it would, but are small amounts like that detrimental too? Like I said though so far I haven't seen any problems with mine. Thanks for your opinions.
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Re: Oil and wood
For the oil or grease to have any effect it has to soak into the wood, and even then it takes a long time to have deleterious effects. The amount you are using will have very little effect if any if the stock has a finish on it. You will be long gone before anyone will notice.Worry about the more pertenant things like coppering up a barrel or non-floating barrel and tang.
El Lobo
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Re: Oil and wood
The part with no finish is what I mean. Like the part that's inletted for the receiver to fit in has no finish and is just bare where the bottom of the receiver sits. I have a couple laminate stocks that are this way too. They have a nice exterior finish but none where they have been cut out to fit the receiver.
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Re: Oil and wood
just get some tung oil or tru oil an have at it
then no more worrys
drybean
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Re: Oil and wood
Does the tung oil seal the wood to keep the gun oil from soaking in?
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Re: Oil and wood
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Re: Oil and wood
Thanks. Maybe I'll try putting a coat inside the receiver inletting.
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Re: Oil and wood
I use Johnson's Paste Wax on the exterior of my rifles. It is oil free and is sound protection agaist rust and corrosion. I a pinch I use wd-40 and then wipe it down. I have started to shy away from oils in lieu of wax.
Best regrds,
Grit
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Re: Oil and wood
How about other types of wood sealers? I see Brownells and Midway has several different types.
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Re: Oil and wood
I seal the inside of my wood rifle stocks with spray satin Krylon. No worries. oil bore sovent and water stay out.
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Re: Oil and wood
Do you guys do anything to prep the wood before applying? Although I've done several builds this is my first time messing with wood finish.
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Re: Oil and wood
Irondog54, is that plain old Krylon spray paint you're talking about?
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Re: Oil and wood
"Sealers" that Midway and Brownells sells are for part of the wood finishing process. I would use plain old tung oil, or Birchwood Casey Tru-oil on bare areas.
Note that if you are going to bed the stock, you don't want to put the tung oil or anything else on there before you do your bedding - that will keep the epoxy from sticking.
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Re: Oil and wood
Plain old krylon satin. Dust insie with dry paint brush. Don't over do it. You can mask off the butt pad and take off the sling swivels and do the whole stock right away. Maybe wipe the shiny surfaces first with isopropl alcohol, but you will be good!
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Re: Oil and wood
Thanks guys! Sounds easier than I first thought. I see Birchwood Casey puts their true oil in an aerosol can so that should make it easy to apply. I'll either do that or try some clear Krylon or maybe even Rustoleum. I assume the true oil and Krylon would resist solvents?
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Re: Oil and wood
Krylon paint sure won't resist solvents - will disolve and make a mess.
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Re: Oil and wood
Ok, ya can't be piggish with the solvent. I have better sucess with Krylon. IMHO
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Re: Oil and wood
Kinda what I thought about the Krylon. I assume it will be ok if a little oil gets on it though? Irondog, what do you mean better success with Krylon? Better than what else? Thanks again for the knowledge guys. I picked up some Krylon from Wal-Mart on the way home. Local Dicks Sporting Goods had small bottles of Birchwood Casey True Oil but I didn't like them. Just ordered a couple aerosol cans of it from Birchwood Casey.
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Re: Oil and wood
None of the oils will resist solvents. Even plastics like Krylon will dissolve. Epoxy will resist solvents for a period of time but if left on very long they also will break down. Unless you are slathering solvents all over any oiled wood I wouldnt worry about using oils. Oils will soak into the wood while Krylon sits on the surface. I would use oils.
El Lobo
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Re: Oil and wood
10-4. I'm gonna try to True Oil as soon as it gets here. I don't use a lot of solvents. Really just in the bore. For cleaning/degreasing the action I use the Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubbe which is supposed to be safe for synthetics and finishes so I assume it probably wouldn't hurt paint. It's never harmed my stocks before. Although I wipe off the excess pretty quick and it evaporates pretty quick anyway. Accidents can happen though but I guess as long as I wipe off any solvents that may get spilled or splattered quickly it should be ok. Thanks again for all the help guys.
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Re: Oil and wood
My sucess with Krylon is based on easy applicatio, good looks and durability. Drying time is fast vs ,say, Rustoleum.
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Re: Oil and wood
So they won't resist solvents but it's highly unlikely I'll have solvents running to the bottom of the receiver anyway. Am I right in assuming that the Birchwood Casey True Oil will protect basically the same way that tung oil will? These will keep any gun oil from soaking in, in the event that too much gets on the action? The petroleum based oils are what eventually breaks down the wood and I just want some kind of layer on/in the wood to keep it from getting in there although I do oil sparingly.
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Re: Oil and wood
Right - tru-oil is basically boiled linseed oil with drying agents/varnish in it to make it easier to work with. Either Tru-oil, BLO, Tung oil or any other non-dinosaur based oil will protect the wood as long as you don't get sloppy.
Good thing about the "natural" oils is you can reapply easily whenever you need to.
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Re: Oil and wood
forgot to add boiled linseed oil would work also,but
slow to dry
drybean
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Re: Oil and wood
[quote=drybean ]
forgot to add boiled linseed oil would work also,but
slow to dry
drybean
Oh yeah, very, very slow to dry. Last resort type stuff. The fact oils soak into the wood to an extent is thier saving grace. And they harden to the depth that they soak in.
El Lobo