torque

I just purchased a new Criterion (read that Krieger with button riflings) barrel (28", 1:10 twist, bull, match, small flange).

Rifle
Savage 10FP LE (current barrel is stock 24", 1:10 twist heavy, small flange)

Tools I have
Wheeler Engineering Action Wrench #2 Remington 700, Savage 110
Wheeler Engineering Barrel Nut Wrench Savage 10, 110 (w/ 1/2" torque wrench holes)
A great workbench with large Irwin vise

My questions are these.

1) What torque in ft lbs should I use?
2) Should I put anything on the threads, blue loc-tite? red loc-tite? anti-seize compound?
3) Is there a good video on this type barrel swap anywhere? I believe I can chuck the action into action wrench with the action wrench locked in my bench vise. This should give me a stable platform for loosening the barrel nut wrench for removal of the old barrel and also for installation of the new barrel.

Any further assistance anyone can give will be appreciated?

Lightly oil threads, I guess you could torque the barrel nut (believe 35 to 40lbs) but I always do mine "just tight". So when you switch again you can get the darn thing apart without needing big hoss to take it off ;D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DougMH

1) What torque in ft lbs should I use?

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As tight as you can get it by hand, and a light whack with a hammer. If you use a torque wrench on your barrel nut wrench, it will not have the right torque values, as they change with the additional leverage of the nut wrench. Besides a torque speck would not make any difference.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DougMH

2) Should I put anything on the threads, blue loc-tite? red loc-tite? anti-seize compound?

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ABSOLUTLY DO NOT USE LOCK TIGHT ON THE BARREL THREADS, OR ANY PART OF THE ACTION!!!!!!!
A bit of oil on the threads is a good thing, I use anti seize compound on mine. Do not assemble it dry for you will get galling.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DougMH

3) Is there a good video on this type barrel swap anywhere? I believe I can chuck the action into action wrench with the action wrench locked in my bench vise. This should give me a stable platform for loosening the barrel nut wrench for removal of the old barrel and also for installation of the new barrel.

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There is an excellent article on this site, look in the article section. It has pictures and walk you thought it step by step.
in the articles section click on the technical articles and it is at the bottom of the list.
Nice thing about this site is there is lots of members see if you can find one in your area, that may be able to lend a hand. Last check out youtube, there are videos there, but remember you get what you pay for.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsM6_...yer_detailpage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MeCae...yer_detailpage

Thanks for the tips. There is calculator to account for torque wrench extensions:

http://www.norbar.com/Portals/0/java/twec/index.html

Basically, it says for X inches of extension to the wrench, use this X amount less torque on the gauge to achieve the actual desired torque. I've used it for other applications and I'm sure it's accurate.

I've watched both those YouTube videos you posted. I admit I've not done this myself, but what I don't really get is why he's bothering with a barrel vise. My idea would be to

1) Mount the lower part of a Wheeler action wrench in my Irwin bench vise.
2) Mount the action into the properly into the Wheeler action wrench with the recoil lug properly located.
3) Slip the barrel nut wrench over the barrel and remove the nut.
4) Remove the old barrel and install the new barrel in reverse order.

But I'll definitely read article you mention. The last thing I can afforde to do is screw this up.

Here's my video swapping the Savage original barrel with the new Criterion (Krieger in button rifled clothing).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPlFtskCwng