Shorten baffle?

I have a 12 FV that I recently converted from .223 to 6.5 Creedmoor. As this is strictly a target gun, I deleted the blind mag and installed a single shot sled, then deleted the ejector when I did the conversion. It all works great with only one minor issue. If I chamber a round, then decide not to take the shot, it can be a challenge to remove the round due to bullet length and the extractor still holding onto the case rim. So my question is, can I just shorten the baffle? And if not, is there a shorter baffle I can use in its place? Thanks.

Dave

You can get a shorter one here: http://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts?product_id=1986

Or just grind it down to whatever length you want...I have done it before.

Thank you, that's just the info I needed.

Dave

Or you could depress the bolt release and back the bolt out enough to remove the round.. Or you could file the guide rail off the original and rotate the baffle 180 degrees.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Robinhood

Or you could depress the bolt release and back the bolt out enough to remove the round.. Or you could file the guide rail off the original and rotate the baffle 180 degrees.

---

I've done the former, but to be honest, it makes me a little jumpy touching the trigger when there's a live round involved, even though I KNOW it (probably) couldn't go off. As to filing off the guide rail, if it isn't needed, why is it there? And wouldn't it just hang up on the other side? Forgive me if that last is a silly question, I don't have the rifle in front of me, and I've never thought to look at just what stops the bolt's rearward travel. Guess I'd better go dig it out and look things over. Later.

Dave

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by daved20319

I've done the former, but to be honest, it makes me a little jumpy touching the trigger when there's a live round involved, even though I KNOW it (probably) couldn't go off. As to filing off the guide rail, if it isn't needed, why is it there? And wouldn't it just hang up on the other side? Forgive me if that last is a silly question, I don't have the rifle in front of me, and I've never thought to look at just what stops the bolt's rearward travel. Guess I'd better go dig it out and look things over. Later.

Dave

---

The baffle floats. The part of the sear that protrudes into the bolt raceway on the right side stops the bolt by stopping the baffle. When you push down on the bolt release it moves the sear rearward and lowers the bolt stop simultaneously.

You're better off buying a new baffle. It will be like factory and that's a good thing. A lot of stuff gets modified around my place and it all works fine but that is me.

A new baffle for 308 based cartridges is $4 plus shipping from Numrich (Gun Parts Corp) or Gunshack and in stock at both. ;-)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PhilC

A new baffle for 308 based cartridges is $4 plus shipping from Numrich (Gun Parts Corp) or Gunshack and in stock at both. ;-)

---

Yeah, I just saw that last night, just trying to figure out what else I need to make it worth placing an order, I hate putting $4 charges on the credit card. Of course, shipping will probably more than double the cost, anyway. Later, and thanks to all.

Dave