Advanced bedding theory...

Okay, I notice most people tape or rubber bungee their actions into place during the curing process when bedding their actions.
I personally use slotted guide bolts to get the action into place then I remove the slotted guide bolts and put the kiwied action bolts into place at 30 in lbs torque on both bolts so that the action sits evenly pressured on the pillars. This method exactly simulates real world, there for reducing any chance of a bind on the action. Usually wielding great results.
What do you guys think of my method.

Charlie

I have always used the guide bolts and then used tie-wraps to hold it down. I dont like using tape because the tape can stretch and you never know if the pressure is even or not, or if it will stay that way till it sets up. I felt the ties would not move, therefore keeping the action more secure.

Using the original screws would do the same thing I guess, and would allow you to just tighten up the screws instead of messing with other things.

Sounds like a good method to me.

If/When I buy a lathe, I will thread the other end of the guide bolts, use a tapered locator, and thread a wing nut on the guide bolts so that I can apply even pressure in the bedding process. Sinman - are you listening??? :)

Clay and tape are used quite a bit in any of the bedding jobs that I do. Cuts the work to do in the end by half and provides a great product at the end.

One item not discussed often, but I drill out the action screw holes in the stock to the original diameter again. Why? Your bedding job is holding the action now. Action screws just provide clamping force, not fore/aft movement control.

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Originally Posted by Harriershot

Okay, I notice most people tape or rubber bungee their actions into place during the curing process when bedding their actions.
I personally use slotted guide bolts to get the action into place then I remove the slotted guide bolts and put the kiwied action bolts into place at 30 in lbs torque on both bolts so that the action sits evenly pressured on the pillars. This method exactly simulates real world, there for reducing any chance of a bind on the action. Usually wielding great results.
What do you guys think of my method.

Charlie

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The problem pulling the action into the bedding material, any errors between the inletting and action are or can be reproduced in the bedding. Actions, especially those with a mag cutout bend (and straighten) a lot easier than you think. I've have more than one when the screws are tightened it completely locked the bolt. If I were to pull the action into the bedding I'd reproduce that condition or something very close to it.

The other issue, any flex in the action is transferred to everything above it, most importantly the ring-mount alignment. There is enough to worry about with the external action dimension differences, you don't want to add to it.

The idea behind bedding it is to have the action in it's unstressed state in the stock the same as if you were holding it in your grubby little hand. After bedding I'll check it the action flex by placing an indicator from the ring to bridge.
http://i45.tinypic.com/2s13n6w.jpg

What I'm after is zero snugging the screws, but I'll let one or two thousandths slide by...maybe!

Bill

i threaded my guide bolts an use push springs
then tighten the wing nuts to keep consant pressure on the action
drybean

BillPa, I should mention, before I bed I remove a lot of stock material, I would say the thinnest areas of bedding is at least 1/8 thick where most is closer to 1/4 thick. Along with the tang being fully floated. This being said I would say the action goes in and cures stress free, but that is just my opinion. I like what I see in your setup with the dial indicator. If it is not too much trouble could you give us a better description of your indicator set up with more pics.
I am always out for max precision and you seem to be also.

Charlie

How is it possible to get a stress free bedding job with the barrel hanging on the action? ed ???

I put several wraps of tape on the barrel, near the end of the forearm, to center the barrel in the channel and provide a contact/support point for the barrel when bedding.

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Originally Posted by tunered

How is it possible to get a stress free bedding job with the barrel hanging on the action? ed ???

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Simple as delco said. Here is that same VLS with a few wraps of tape around the barrel near the forend to remove it's weight and also align the edge of the port with the stock fore and aft and center the barrel in the channel.
[img width=600 height=450]http://i47.tinypic.com/2lbddld.jpg[/img]

Savages I do a bit differently,no barrel! After doing the prep work I'll remove the barrel and use this gadget. No filling or taping the nut, only apply release then bed it.
http://i41.tinypic.com/34oy1pe.jpg

I made it .010" larger in diameter than the nut and 1" of the barrel shank that way everything is floated from the lug forward.

Bill

Billpa,

Nice job, Great idea. ed

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BillPa

Savages I do a bit differently,no barrel! After doing the prep work I'll remove the barrel and use this gadget. No filling or taping the nut, only apply release then bed it.
http://i41.tinypic.com/34oy1pe.jpg

I made it .010" larger in diameter than the nut and 1" of the barrel shank that way everything is floated from the lug forward.

Bill

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neat trick ;D