Bedding questions?

I recently purchased a 12 BR and had read here somewhere that the action could use some bedding in the laminate stock, which sounded logical.

I ordered up some Devcon (from the link that was moved, using the coupon code of course :) )

Things I think are right:

The tang free floats
The barrel gets wrapped to set free-space
clay or tape goes where I don't want epoxy to go.

Questions:

1. There seems to be different opinions about putting about an inch of barrel in the bedding compound at the receiver. I've looked at a few custom rifles and they range from about 1 1/2" of barrel bedded on a Remington 40X custom shop 338 LM, to stopping behind the recoil lug on others I've seen. Opinions?

2. I hear 65 in/lbs a lot for a torque spec. which I think comes from an aftermarket stock maker's recommendation. Stock has pillars (though they look more like spacers to prevent crushing the stock with the action screws, and not like big fat pillars in the traditional sense) so you think 65 in/lbs would work here?

To clarify, Ive read the bedding article in the paid section and I'll extremely confident in my abilities. I've been designing and fabricating all manner of contraptions using the correct tools for over 20 years and have a pile of tools grinders, sanders, drill presses, a small mill and lathe, even a TIG welder, should the need arise, in the garage.

Thanks in advance

Yes a bedding job would help the gun out.

I bed about 1 to 2 inches of the barrel past the barrel nut, and this would fill the entire recoil lug pocket. I wrap the recoil lug in electric tape leaving the side toward the action unwrapped. I use shoe polish as a release agent. You can free float the tag or not it doesn't make a difference. I place a spot of clay under the barrel to keep it floated. Get a pair of long 1/4 x 28 bolts cut the heads off and use then to guide the receiver into the pillars.

Don't worry about torque specks just hand tight is all the that is needed. If a stock needs torqued it has a bedding problem.

Thank you Sir!

Eventually I'll shoot this thing :)

I agree with 82boy. 1-1/2 to 2 ' of bedding @ the rear of a barrel is a good idea. It helps support the long, free-floated heavy-weight barrel. Wax-type shoe polish works great as a release agent. I also have used 'SnoSeal', a slick waterproofing agent for boots. it works as well, or maybe even better!

[img width=600 height=400]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q228/ultramag44/Savage%20Bench%2012/SavageonBench2.jpg[/img]

Well how did it shoot ??? I have the same gun and I am planning on doing a bedding job on it !

No report yet. The Devcon is still in the mail.

Ultarmag44 shot his and wrote up a brief review: http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,34878.0.html

Or are you asking specifically about how is shot bedded?

The plan is to shoot it next weekend and the following week (if the bedding material arrives) I have a weird job and my schedule is a little unpredictable; but, for now, that is the plan.

I'll post pictures and the results from the shooting as soon as they are available

By the way i recieved the devcon i posted the link to in 2days. ;D

nefarious, you've got excellent advice from all here. Would like to make two small suggestions. When I bedded mine I found the stock was slightly too tall @ the tang preventing the rear- most pillar from making firm contact w/ the action. A light, careful sanding eliminated the problem. You might also want to consider removing the trigger group prior to bedding. The Devcon sets up HARD. One little squeeze around the trigger group could ruin your day! Hope it all works out well for you. Dale

Thanks Dale,

After "making room" around the pillars and in the lug area I noticed the same thing today. Tomorrow I'll clearance the tang area and it should be about ready for goo.

When installing new pillars, do you cut the notch for the trigger group before or after you bed? I have had trouble keeping the notched pillar perpendicular to the action, so thought I would try cutting the notch after bedding.

@ bsekf:

I used the standard pillars and I'm bedding a dual port which has the rear pillar set forward from the trigger group, so it doesn't get notched.

Perhaps one of the more knowledgeable gentlemen would care to assist?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bsekf

When installing new pillars, do you cut the notch for the trigger group before or after you bed? I have had trouble keeping the notched pillar perpendicular to the action, so thought I would try cutting the notch after bedding.

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After, remove the trigger group prior to bedding.