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i got me a stevens 200 in .243
I was thinking of getting another rifle in .308, but the idea occured to me of getting another barrel for the stevens in .308
so what do i need to get this to work ?
and what exactly is head spacing ?
does the .243 bolt work with the .308 ?
how easy is this to do ?
Its very easy to do and your action would be perfect for the 243 and 308 with almost no modification at all.
Problem is, your not a paid member and we have mucho articles in our tech section that go into very detail about the tools you need and how to properly headspace (its easy actually).
Swapping out a barrel takes me about 5 minutes.
You really should become a paid member and read up on all these articles, youl be swapping barrels every time you turn around once youve got the knowlege.
becoming a mamber not only gives you access to all the articles, it also gives you access to a great classified section. There's actually a few 308 barrels for sale there now.
Medic 01, all the info is on this site. You can do a search and find most of the info you need, but there is so much more on here that you can only access has a member and it is well worth the 12.00 a year. I've learned more, read more, and enjoyed myself more since. There is alot of satisfaction that goes with knowing what you personally can do with one of these rifles. And you do it on your own, possibly with some help from the fellas on this site, but they are all more then glad to share there knowledge. You can do it.
Also when you become a PAID member you will get the secret hand shake that will allow you to teleport yourself to Mikes next Pa shoot. :) :)
medic01, Swapping barrels is no problem as the rest have said. You need a wrench for the barrel nut from SSS, midway or several others. I make wooden barrel blocks to hold the barrel in a large vise, just drill a hole a bit smaller than your barrel, in a short piece wood. I like oak 4" x 4". After you drill the hole, saw the block in half, parallel with the hole. The goal is to split the hole long ways. This will fit over each side of the barrel and allow clamping in the vise. Clamp in vise, as tight as you can if the barrel nut is as it left the factory. It will be very tight. I use a heavy hammer on the wrench but most use a dead blow hammer.
I feel you need at least a go gauge, I own both go and no go gauges, these set the head space. Gauges can be bought where ever you get the wrench.$20 each. They come with instructions. BTW, you use the same gauges for 243 and 308. Any trouble or questions just ask.... Bill
McCree Precision makes a stainless barrel nut wrench as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Water Bill
:D
Medic01:
This barrel changing stuff is fun, :D but can run into some $$$ >:(... Might use all your "squirrel" money ???.
You got the cost of the action tool or barrel blocks, barrel nut tool; then, another barrel, new, or take-off; go-no go gages for current barrel for when you revert, plus the new barrel if you change chamber dimensions (.243-.308 same thing); bullets for the new caliber, different powders and primers, if required; reloading dies, shell holders, chamber measuring tools; chrony to check your new loads... On and on and on, depending on how technical you wish to get... But, it is a lot of fun ;D... Kids don't need shoes, do they ???
ahh the money building a couple of rifles is nothing, try setting up for chambering them, 30+ reamers at 100-140 each, headspace gauges for each one $27 each X 2 for a set, indicating rods, lathe, lathe tool ect. now that gets expensive.
Tools are cheap.....experience is priceless. ;D
i frown on the day I have to train someone, thats going to be costly.
I guess when you can make a $ at what you like or love to do and shoot too, it ain't all bad. :D