T&T'ed s/a "Catching" when closing bolt

I bought a used S/a from a member here awhile back. It seemed great at the time, but haven't had a chance to do anything with it till now. I'm told it was T&T by SSS and had the homemade bolt lift kit installed and an aftermarket (PTG?????, can't remember for sure) bolt head installed.

Anyways, it gets "hung up" when trying to close the bolt. The only way I can close it is if I slam it forward real hard and aggressively, otherwise, the bolt will not drop. It almost feels like the bolt head has a sharp edge catching on a rough spot in the barrel threads of the action. When I just try to push it forward like normal so as to close it, it stops a little short.

Now I am thinking it seems as though the part of the sear that protrudes up into the action is hanging up on something.

I tried removing the lift kit (BB in pistol case head) and it made no difference.

Any ideas?

I can't post pics, but can email them or send to a cell, although I don't know what you'd see.

Take some pictures and upload them to photobucket and post them.

I've long-since given up trying to post pics. I'm a dumb-ask that way, I guess.

Pull the bolt and look for contact points.
Insert one of your many, many other SA bolts and see if you experience the same problem.
Loosen the front action bolt 2 turns and see if it goes away.

Back the BAS out one or two threads then try it.

Bill

it's not mounted to anything...

I tried another bolt in there and it was the same problem. When running the "offending bolt" in the "good" action, it sort of did the same thing. Almost as if there is something in the bolt damaging the sear. If I press the sear release while closing the bolt it runs smoothly except for a slight "hitch" in the bolt head/threads area just before the bolt is at it's lowest point at closing. There might be two things going on here.

I know I am not describing it well. I am also aware that I am sounding like a Savage newbie doesn't know how these things work, but I am stumped and frustrated, and I FEEL like an idiot.

I am considering replacing the sear, but because there was a bit of an issue in the other action when running the "offending bolt", in that action, too, I am worried I might just end up ruining another sear in the process.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BillPa

Back the BAS out one or two threads then try it.

Bill

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Tried that. Nothing.

Only thing that seems to help is pressing the bolt release, but then it won't cock, of course.

How does the "bad bolt work in a different action

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

How does the "bad bolt work in a different action

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It sort of catches on the sear, but not as badly. That's why I am hesitant to just change sears.

seems to have a very heavy firing pin spring. might that need adjusting?

You should have about .250 firing pin travel. Rebuild it and set it up correctly starting with protrusion.

Foxx,
Did the seller provide paperwork backing up the claim of T&T ?

Check the front top edges of the lugs on the bolt head. Most likely they're sharp and they're catching on the front bridge as you're sliding the bolt home. Simple to fix - just hit them with a file to put a small bevel on them.

On another note, was the action T&T'd before or after the P/O added the new bolt head and bolt lift kit? If he added those afterwards he basically ruined Fred's T&T job.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by J. Baker

Check the front top edges of the lugs on the bolt head. Most likely they're sharp and they're catching on the front bridge as you're sliding the bolt home. Simple to fix - just hit them with a file to put a small bevel on them.

On another note, was the action T&T'd before or after the P/O added the new bolt head and bolt lift kit? If he added those afterwards he basically ruined Fred's T&T job.

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Right, guys. I asked the seller about that, he said Fred did the T&T after the parts were replaced and the kit was installed. And, I trust the guy, just don't remember who it was that I got it from. Certainly don't want him (who ever it is) to think I am complaining or accusing him of anything. Maybe that member will see this and have some advice for me.

Jim, you may be right about those edges, I've been wondering about that myself, and Fred or you have warned us about there being possible issues when using bolt heads with sharp edges. There is a reason Savage rounds them off by tumbling them. A tight fit with sharp corners and edges is not always a good thing.

Clint has offered to post pics for me. Gonna get some out to him in a few.

Okay, Clint will be posting pics. One will show the position the bolt is in when it gets hung up.
another shows the sear is "hacked-up", rough and shiny where the bolt head strikes it while passing by. I also suspect the bolt head is chewing up / catching on threads when in the forward position and rotating upon closing. THat, or the damaged sear is catching on the "cocking piece" while rotating down and cocking.

I will try rounding them off and replace the sear. Good thing I ordered more than one sear a while back when I got one for someone else.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06...ef9971569f.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06...86c31f595d.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06...485a9e3f6b.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06...385b08ffe1.jpg

Might be the sear is rubbing the trigger, due to the trigger stop being adjusted so there is no over travel, try adjusting to get some over travel.

Yeah, it was as Jim said. The sharp edges of the aftermarket bolt head and front baffle was cutting the top part of the sear and affecting the cocking pin and the movement of the sear as the bolt assembly moved over it. Then, also, the edges were cutting into the threaded parts of the action when fully forward (maybe). It could be that it just felt that way because ethe sear was so ragged, chewed up that cocking pin was also getting hung-up in it as the bolt was lowered. The pic doesn't show how rough that piece was. That should have been the first place I looked for signs of trouble.

Anyhow, I rounded off all the edges and corners of both pieces and replaced the sear and it runs fine now.

Thanks, everyone.

One more thing...

Why was the firing pin spring red? Is that aftermarket, also?

According to my records, there has been several changes done to that action since it left my shop. The red firing pin spring...that's part of my work.