New Member / Savage 111 questions

So I recently purchased a Savage 111 trophy hunter xp in .270. Plan on doibg some hunting with it this fall. Took it out to the range for the first time the other day and put some rounds through it. Sighted in fairly quick, and I was shooting abou 1.5 inches with 3 shots at 100yards. I think as I get more aclimated to the gun I'lll shoot better as I'm mainly not useto any recoil.

The gentleman I was shooting with has an Axis .308. He put a boyds stock on it and a metal trigger guard. Made the rifle a bit heavier, but I liked the look and feel of it, but most of all he said it made the gun more accurate, so for roughly 100$ I was thinking about going for it. So I wanted to get some thoughts on where I should go from here.

This will be a deer rifle, but I will probably go ring some steel a few times a year as well. Plan on shooting 50-300 yards.

I'm wondering if I should: get a boyds stock, get a boyds stock and bed the rifle or just bed the rifle with my current stock.
Also are there any other minor things I should do while I'm at it?


Any imput is much appreciated
-Ryan

Ryan,
Stocks are like socks.
The general notion is that ANY form of additional support over the wet-noodle stock is an "Improvement". I have a heavy barreled FP that I shot for a long time, then bedded it, and later added forend supports.
At this point I honestly don't know that all that work on the factory stock was an improvement. The various aftermarket stocks were some, but the biggest help was me actually learning what the Deuce I was doing.

Consistency and trigger control can't be bought, only learned; same with load development. I built a Creedmoor on a XL7 that I shoot to a mile with, that rifle wears a bone stock Boyds stock. It is a stock rifle with a Heavy E.R. Shaw barrel that had a "tight spot" near the muzzle. I certainly won't win at camp perry, but that rifle is easily capable of MOA at a mile. The trick is the screwball with his booger-hook, on the bang-switch.
As I posted on another forum, I did some grouping work last month. That "Group" was around 200 yards, and was just shy of 100 rounds rapid fire. Many would think I'm crazy, and though they may be correct; has nothing to do with shooting. That style of shooting is what is most likely to be encountered in a match. So what the rifle does as it heats, cools, any shooter fatigue, environmental changes, etc. LEARNING yourself, your system will show you how good, or Poor of a shooter you really are.

I would throw that factory stock in the ocean, simply because of ergo's. But you may enjoy it, just find comfort, and start practicing.

IMO, the Savage TH stock is not worth the time and money spent trying to bed or stiffen the forearm to improve accuracy potential. For the money, a Boyd's stock is a good first step. You will need to order a plastic DBM frame assembly (surround) to use your current lighter, plastic bottom DBM. At the same time I would also order a metal Savage bottom bolt release trigger guard to replace the plastic one for better support under the rear action bolt. These can be ordered from Savage Arms Parts. Epoxy bedding the action and recoil lug usually improves accuracy potential. You want to free-float the rear tang on a Savage action and the barrel. Ordering a target/varmint Accutrigger spring will allow you to lower the trigger pull down around 1.5 lbs which helps improve groups verses a heavier trigger pull. You can adjust higher for hunting. The Accutrigger target springs can be ordered online from GunShack, a site vendor. It appears your Nikon scope is tracking properly and holding zero. You'll know if it goes south. I usually replace the cheap package rifle bases and rings with a better product. I find the Weaver Grand Slam 2-piece bases, or Burris Xtreme Tactical bases and Burris Signature Zee rings work best for me on a Savage LA hunting rifle. Try several brands of ammo to find what your rifle shoots best. I would also consider upgrading to a softer 1" recoil pad with a 270. If you order a Boyd's stock, letting them fit the stock with a 1" pad (custom option) will be cheaper than DIY. Reducing felt recoil will improve groups and help avoid developing a flinch. With these simple, cost-effective modifications you will see your groups improve when you do your part. Welcome to the world of Savage "barrel nuts".

I have the same rifle in .25-06; be warned once you start "tinkering" there is a slippery slope. Pulled the factory tupperware off and epoxy bedded it and did a rattle can cammo job. About a year and a half later I'm about 3/4 done with a full-out "custom" build.... bought a model 10 used and the only thing left original is the action.

I do agree with darkker that the best way to improve groups is to practice; not being used to recoil can both help and hurt... if you don't have one already I'd buy a .22 or other smallbore low recoil rifle and spend a lot of time on the range. Will it be the same as shooting the .270? No. Will it help you apply the fundamentals of marksmanship without breaking the bank, bruising your shoulder, and developing a flinch? Yup. Plus... like I said with the slippery slope... its an excuse to buy another rifle... sooooo where is the downside?

I have the same rifle as you. Not that yours will shoot the same as mine, but my best grouping factory ammo was 150gr fed softpoints after replacing the crap mounts and rings with DNZ game reaper one piece mount ring combo. It consistently grouped rounds in just over an inch at 100 yards. I am now flirting with 1/2" @100yards after a boyds with pillars installed and action bedded, replacing the nikon with a redfield and loading my own. But I like the nikon for a package gun scope. It is more then adaquate for hunting deer @ 300yards.

BTW I tried all the factory ammo I could get my hands. 130gr to 150 gr, remi, win, fed ,horn, pirv....

Hey All,
First off, thanks for all of the responses. Sounds like I will go along with what I planned and order a boyds stock and just ditching the plastic, thanks jpdown for the heads up about getting a softer recoil pad when I get the stock, might as well do it all at once. . With the accutrigger, I think I had it set at stock, so I'm going to back it down to its lightest setting before thinking of putting in the varmint spring.

I'll also be changing the sight mounts to one of the above mentioned. The mounts did fine on my first round of shooting, but I haven't taken it back out since, after the suggestion I would assume that next time I take out the rifle I will have to re-zero it.

Speaking of the recoil mentioned earlier, I was thinking about getting an upgraded recoil lug at the same time. I looked at the installation and it looks pretty self explanatory replacing the ring after unscrewing the barrel. But does anyone know how the fitment will be with the boyds stock? will I have to modify the stock to fit the thicker lug? Also I was looking at another thread and someone mentioned that they had to modify their aftermarket (holly?) recoil lug to fit.

So does anyone know of a recoil lug that would be a direct fit with my Savage 111 and a boyds stock, or will I have to modify? Or should I just leave the stock recoil lug in and bed it?

Also I am aware that by the time I start throwing money at this thing it will set me back a couple hundred bucks, but let me tell you what, it was much easier to convince the wife that I could but a rifle for $500, than $800 or $1000, If I have to spend the money in between to upgrade it those costs will be behind the scenes and save me the headache.

You should be able to adjust the standard Accutrigger down to around 2 to 2.5 lbs. Since this is a hunting rifle, I would not worry about changing out the factory recoil lug until/unless you decide to swap out the barrel. Your not going to see a noticeable difference in accuracy. And bedding the factory recoil lug should resolve possible issues. The factory recoil lug should drop into the Boyd's stock without a problem.

If you do go the route of installing a new recoil lug, then you are going to need access to a vice or action wrench and barrel nut wrench to remove the barrel nut and a set of go/no go gages to reset the proper barrel headspace. The aftermarket recoil lugs are thicker and may require some dremel work on the stock inlet to fit. I would recommend the SSS competition recoil lug or the Northland Shooters Supply recoil lug. They fit the Savage action without problem. You'll also probably need a new barrel, since you will most likely end up having to use a pipe wrench to remove the factory installed smooth barrel nut the first time. IMO, the time and cost don't add up to any noticeable gain in accuracy.

Any time you change bases, rings or remove the scope from your rifle you will need to recheck the zero. It is going to change.