Check list before first fire

Alright guys I need some help before I pull the trigger and have a bolt kiss my retina. What started as a factory savage 110 chambered in 30-06, is now a switch barrel .300 win mag. What I need help with is I need reassurance before I pull trigger. I bought by accident a bolt head for .300wm but it used the small firing pin instead of the large original pin, so I drill the hole out using the original bolt head as a guide think it was a #49 or #51 drill bit if I remember correctly. Is this ok or wil I have problems with firing pin? I switched out the 06 for a McGowan varmint contour 26" stainless barrel, when I headspaced I put go gauge in and screwed barrel until felt it hit go gauge. Took the gauge out and measured oal and put a piece of scotch tape on gauge and remeasured and got .0015 to .002. I then torqued the nut using Jim's action wrench and barrel nut to 45ftlbs. Putting go gauge in with tape on base of gauge the bolt will half way close. Is this sounding good is there any problems the pros are seeing before I pull the trigger this weekend? I also wanted to know if I can gun kote the bolt body or will that cause clearance problems and stiff bolt travel. Please help me out in case I did something wrong before I fire it thanks a million guys! Ill post pictures as soon as I get a chance it turned out pretty nice for my first build and I'm already dreaming of another one!

You said that after you tightened the nut the gauge with the tape on it would not allow the bolt to close. Will it close on the gauge without the tape?

Firing pin: A 49 and 51 drill bit diameters are .073 and .067 respectively. What is the diameter of the firing pin at the hole?
The firing pins are .095 and .145 in the area where they pass through the cross pin. This was changed to increase strength and eliminate cross pin failures.

You can Gun Kote the bolt body. Do your prep right. I have seen limited success doing this with their gear kote.

I'm at work right now I could be wrong on the drill size I took the number drills and matched the best fit to the old bolt head diameter. Is that a big mistake with the cross pin being to thin? Will it break? The bolt did lock on the go gauge but did not lock on go gauge with tape, also tried factory rounds and they chamber fine.

Sounds like you are good to go with the headspace. When sizing, just bump the shoulder back maybe .001 or .002 max and you will have brass that lasts. The Large hole cross pins, and I just learned this recently from another post, are compromised whilst dry firing. I am not sure on the clearance between the bolt head hole and the firing pin. Possibly one of our resident guru's will chime in. Seems like .005 would be sufficient.

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Originally Posted by DeadIdick

I'm at work right now I could be wrong on the drill size I took the number drills and matched the best fit to the old bolt head diameter. Is that a big mistake with the cross pin being to thin? Will it break? The bolt did lock on the go gauge but did not lock on go gauge with tape, also tried factory rounds and they chamber fine.

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If the shank on the pin you have is .140" you should use or have used a #28 bit. (.1405") to open both the retaining pin and bolthead shaft but only to the vent.

As far as breaking I repeat....use a snap caps! In the absence of a primer or snap cap the protrusion nut slams against the bolthead shaft and that hammer blow is transferred to the retaining pin and may fracture it, especially those for the .140" pins.

You don't necessarily need to buy snap caps. They can be something as simple as a case with an pencil eraser glued in the primer pocket or the pocket filled with RTV.


The rest sounds as though you have things in order. If your unsure do what I do. Take a friend along and tell him to touch a few off while you get a cup of coffee out of the the truck! If you hear a loud boom but no scream your good to go!:p

Bill

So, Bill, have many friends? :) ;)

Bill was the one discussing the Cross Pin issue. Thanks for chiming in Bill.

I know where you are coming from in being a little apprehensive on your first build's test fire. My first build was a .270 that I put together a couple of years ago. When I got the barrel all screwed on, and had some nice shiny test loads all ready to go I took it out to my father in law's place where we have a range. I had been telling him about the build, and he was very impressed with how it turned out as far as looks. He was so worried about me firing the gun, that he actually talked me into letting him cover me up with a big pile of pillows. I wish I had a picture...he took all the pillows and cushions off the coach and piled them up around me for that first shot...then right before I pulled the trigger, he ran inside and closed the door! lol. Of course it all went well, and about 10 minutes later I had shot a .295" 3 shot group at 100yds that made his jaw drop! Was a fun and very satisfactory day! Good luck with your build. Check it, and check it again and again if that's what you need to do. Each time you do one, it will get less nerve racking.

Thanks for the advice guys I really appreciate it. Bill I tried to find some volunteers but for some reason I couldn't find any? I rechecked my work again tonight and the go gauge fits and the go with tape does not(tape added .0015). Factory rounds chamber and so do the rounds I fl sized in my die. I did make a snap cap out of a piece of brass and an unlucky pencil eraser tonight also thanks for that advice as well because I do practice with dry firing often. As for the gun kote on the bolt body will I run into a clearance problem on the action? Should I only do one coat? The only reason I want to gun kote is because I think it will look kinda goofy on a camo rifle. Thanks for all the help guys ill be posting pics as soon as I can

No clearance problems.

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Originally Posted by teebirdhyzer

I know where you are coming from in being a little apprehensive on your first build's test fire. My first build was a .270 that I put together a couple of years ago. When I got the barrel all screwed on, and had some nice shiny test loads all ready to go I took it out to my father in law's place where we have a range. I had been telling him about the build, and he was very impressed with how it turned out as far as looks. He was so worried about me firing the gun, that he actually talked me into letting him cover me up with a big pile of pillows. I wish I had a picture...he took all the pillows and cushions off the coach and piled them up around me for that first shot...then right before I pulled the trigger, he ran inside and closed the door! lol. Of course it all went well, and about 10 minutes later I had shot a .295" 3 shot group at 100yds that made his jaw drop! Was a fun and very satisfactory day! Good luck with your build. Check it, and check it again and again if that's what you need to do. Each time you do one, it will get less nerve racking.

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LOL a pic of that would have been great! The first time I pulled the trigger on my first build I wore my welding helmet and elbow length welding gloves!

You can do a function test by using full length sized and trimmed cases (if you have them) and add a live primer. Pull the trigger on a live primer and you know it the action works. You can even do it indoors or behind the garage if you don't have nosy neighbors.

DO NOT USE LOADED AMMO FOR THIS TEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You might want to check the firing pin protusion to be safe.I cant remember if its .028 to .035 but soemone will chime in with the correct amount to check for.

I didn't check the firing pin protrusion I will check tonight. What is the best way to check that? Can I do it with a caliper? I forgot mention one thing I did do a DIY trigger job on this rifle has anyone had any problems with slam fires or accidental discharges? It's a flat back two screw trigger 110. All I did is filed slight with a super fine file on the trigger where the sear contacts, that took out my creep then I replaced the factory spring with a .045 spring I made. I then adjusted the safety and over travel screws. Drop testing slamming the bolt with and without safety it did not fire. Trigger feels good my guess would be its at 3lbs or less. However I could get it to fire on safety if I hit the trigger with a screw driver pretty hard about 5 times but I think that would be pretty impossible to do with the trigger guard? I did not file a whole lot because I read about the softer inner metal pretty much just filed the burr that was there. Thanks guys for all the advice

QUOTE] You can do a function test by using full length sized and trimmed cases (if you have them) and add a live primer. Pull the trigger on a live primer and you know it the action works. You can even do it indoors or behind the garage if you don't have nosy neighbors.[/QUOTE]

Funny. This is how I did my primer test. I wanted to know the real difference between the CCI200, CCIBR2. I made up rounds with several of each primer and shot them in the back yard with the rifle on the bipod with the black plastic cap that came on my McGowen barrel on the end. Figured the hottest primer would shoot it the farthest. Standard 200 went just as far as the BR2. :cool:

Alright guys I went to the back 40 range this weekend and shot the old .300wm and it appears I have done something terribly right this time! First off the rifle didn't explode in my face and second of all I think I may have a real nice shooter on my hands. After break in of the barrel with a box of Remington core locks I started shooting my reloads I made for load development. I made it 2 grains from starting load and found that the rifle really likes smk 168 bthp with 77.0 grains of magpro. Shot a .172 three shot group paint it green and its a lucky clover. I really appreciate all the helpful advice couldn't have done it without all the wonderful people on this sight! Keep up the good work.