Savage Firing Pin Info and question requested

Savage Firing Pin Info

Excuse me if this has been answered elsewhere but I did a search and didn’t find anything or my search words didn’t match in prior discussions on exactly what I was looking for.

I have some questions.

Can you disassemble the firing pin assembly? If so, is there a tutorial that can be linked to on the this site or elsewhere indicating how this is done?

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...in3-2012ng.jpg

Does anyone know the poundage of the firing pin spring? I was told it was 22# but I haven’t seen that in writing or anywhere that is verifiable.

Will removing a bit of the spring (Maybe start with ¼ round or so and work back) eleviate some of the stiff bolt lift?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I found this on CalGuns.net, Seems reasonable. Does it seem reasonable to you?

"I've had a number of requests on how I lighten my bolt lift so I figured I'd share with everyone. As any savage owner knows the bolts are HEAVY! Savage kinda over did it on the spring IMO. "Go big or go home" does not really apply to bolt lift but kudos to them for thinking big

Before you get started, measure your firing pin using calipers. A ruler is not exact enough so if you don't have a pair invest the $20 and get one. You want to make sure that the Pin Stop nut in the front (pointy end) remains the same. This nut sets the depth the firing pin protrudes out the bolt head. If it protrudes too much you risk puncturing the primer and damaging your rifle or yourself. If it does not protrude enough you will get light primer strikes and your round might not go off. Measure and wright down these lengths and be sure to set them back exactly."

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...on3-2012ng.jpg

"Unscrew the rear cocking nut and remove the spring. Try to leave the Pin Stop Nut in the front alone. Measure the length from the back of the Pin Stop Nut to the end of the firing pin shaft where the threading ends. Using a dremal cut the spring to this length."

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/...ed3-2012ng.jpg

"Rebuild the assembly making sure the rear nut hole lines up with the castle nut/washer peak and you are done. Your bolt lift should be about 30%-40% less. There is still plenty of power left in the spring to set off even magnum primers."

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=450082

I suppose that works to, although you loose some of your protrusion adjustability by chopping the spring.
In my rifles, the spring wasn't the issue for heavy bolt lift. It was drag IN the bolt body, angle on the bolt body, and the rear-most baffle outside the action.

That's a good way to screw things up...

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Originally Posted by TRguy

There is still plenty of power left in the spring to set off even magnum primers."

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That says all you need to know about how much to trust this info...

OK, so we now have two opinions hinting at what not to do. Care to elaborate? I'm sure the OP wouldn't mind learning something new from the experts here.

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That's a good way to screw things up...

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I would listen to Sharpshooter!

Anyone got suggestions they care to share how to improve bolt lift?

Beside what I found will just "Screw it up", any constructive info would be greatly appreciated.

TRguy

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Anyone got suggestions they care to share how to improve bolt lift?

Beside what I found will just "Screw it up", any constructive info would be greatly appreciated.

TRguy

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TRgun, the above opinion was given probably by the best most well known Savage gunsmith in the country!

He is also capable of giving you the best solution, but I don't know at this point! I believe he was making a point your going in the wrong direction!

I personally have 4 actions worked on by Sharpshooter, Trued and Timed, and they are the best actions I own!

I'm sure if you give him a chance, you will get the best answer your looking for!

Dennis

How about a lighter spring full length? No messing with other parts.

El Lobo

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Originally Posted by Dennis

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I'm sure if you give him a chance, you will get the best answer your looking for!

Dennis

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That is all I am requesting.

It may take some google-fu but Fred has posted how he uses his proprietary process to reduce bolt lift several times.

I won't be cutting any critical function springs. I just get on the list and send mine in when Lisa tells me to. Lift and cock all of my SharpShootered actions with one finger.

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Lift and cock all of my SharpShootered actions with one finger.

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Same here!

Does any of this seem accurate?

Got it from http://www.snipercentral.com/forums/...ic.php?t=23932

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Post Savage Bolt Lift Kits
Fred Moreo uses the case head off a .357mag and a detent ball glued in. and he shortens up and polishes the screw.

Kevin Rayhill puts a machined shoulderd cap with a detent ball. He may or may not shorten the screw.

I use to turn a .399 shoulder on the screw, giving the cocking piece sleeve less surface area contact and keeping the firing pin center aligned.

Today I make a shouldered cap with a center detent. This cap fits in the back end of the cocking piece sleeve. I drill, ream, and tap the main screw .250 x 28tpi. I insert a .750 x .250 x 28ti grade 8 cone point set screw inside the main screw. The cone point set screw mates with the detent keeping the firing pin centered. The set screw can be turned in and it increases the firing pin spring tension.

A factory Savage takes and adverage of 22 lbs to :-). A timed and trued Savage that has the aformentioned modification takes less than 10 lbs to :-).

Nat Lambeth

_________________
Nathaniel G. Lambeth, Sr
Custom Guns and Ammunition
15 Sunflower Drive
Youngsville, NC 27596

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http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...ic,4899.0.html

Angles, timing and angles....

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Fred Moreo uses the case head off a .357mag and a detent ball glued in. and he shortens up and polishes the screw.

Kevin Rayhill puts a machined shoulderd cap with a detent ball. He may or may not shorten the screw.

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Two of the best . . . Fred Moreo is Sharpshooter, FYI

As per the above web link, your best bet is to let Fred True and Time your action!

You will be happy with the results!

Dennis

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Originally Posted by Dennis

As per the above web link, your best bet is to let Fred True and Time your action!

You will be happy with the results!

Dennis

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Thanks!

Cutting the spring in that situation is like setting the idle speed higher on a car that runs but won't idle. You may have put a band aid on one issue but you haven't fixed the problem and you might cause more issues.

So nobody has come right out and explained why this shouldn't be done...

Reducing the spring pressure would also increase the lock time; which is not desirable.
I had my 12 action trued by SSS and I am completly happy with it
Best regards,
Grit

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Originally Posted by Grit #1

Reducing the spring pressure would also increase the lock time; which is not desirable.
I had my 12 action trued by SSS and I am completly happy with it
Best regards,
Grit

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Increasing lock time? Not to be so naive but what is exactly "lock time"?

Is that the time from trigger sear release until the pin hits the primer?

Also does anyone know what the standard spring weight is for the Short Firing Pin Assembly is? is is 20#s or 22#s or some other number?

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So nobody has come right out and explained why this shouldn't be done...

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From "MY" personal experience, I don't modify anything within a reciever/bolt assembly!

I lost a state match over a smiliar experience! Won't happen twice!

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Originally Posted by Grit #1

Reducing the spring pressure would also increase the lock time; which is not desirable.
I had my 12 action trued by SSS and I am completly happy with it
Best regards,
Grit

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Increasing lock time? Not to be so naive but what is exactly "lock time"?

Is that the time from trigger sear release until the pin hits the primer?

Also does anyone know what the standard spring weight is for the Short Firing Pin Assembly is? is is 20#s or 22#s or some other number?

Lock time

Lock time is the time between the release of the sear, and the ignition of the cartridge. A lengthy lock time gives time for the shooter to drift off target, and so it is advantageous to minimize the lock time, and reduce the window for error. Reductions in lock time are generally performed by lightening parts that move as part of the firing operation, such as the hammer and firing pin or striker, and using a more powerful spring. Further reductions in lock time, to near zero levels, can be achieved with electrical primers.