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I have a had a Weather Warrior (pre accustock) for a few years now and I've decided its a little too much for whitetail at the ranges I hunt at. My question is what is needed and how viable is it to switch the .300 WSM to a .308.
I know I'll need a new bolt head and most likely a new barrel but is there anything else? How difficult will this be? I am mechanically inclined but I haven't done anymore gunsmithing than mounting scopes and basic things like that.
Thanks in advance everyone.
The only other thing I can think of is you will probably need a new magazine to get the .308 to feed if you aren't going to single feed it. You will also need a set of go/no-go gages,a barrel nut wrench and either an action wrench or barrel vice, some swear by one some by the other, take your choice. You will be surprised by just how easy it is to change barrels. If using the action wrench make sure that you don't have it tightened down so tight that you can't unscrew the barrel from the receiver once you have the nut loose, please don't make me tell you how I know this :-\ .
It's a blind magazine. Because of that will it have to be a single shot from now on?
No, you can change the internal magazine body and follower. You can get the parts from Numrich for under $30.
When you swap the bolt head beware that you may also run into some issues with the size of the firing pin. Brian Brown.
Labrat, thanks for your help. Don't worry, I won't ask any questions with embarrassing answers.
Fullersson, is there a way to know if my firing pin is the right size ahead of time?
The bolt I had problems with was an older long action that was chambered in 7mm mag. I ended up buying a new bolt assembly because I needed the bolt body, the firing pin assembly, and the bolt head. The bolt body had been punched from the factory and the bolt head shaft was grooved to fit properly and like I said the firing pin was too large for the new bolt head so I just ordered a new bolt assembly. I don't know why this bolt was so different from the others I've dealt with. I don't know if it was because it was older (20 years old) or if it was because it was a magnum. I'm sure there's a way to tell ahead of time but I don't know what it would be. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Brian Brown.
Thanks Fuller, that was actually a lot of help. I'll have time to experiment and find out what works since I'll be starting soon and it won't be warm enough to go to the range for a couple months.
It sounds like with on of the ER Shaw barrels, magazine parts and bolt head I'm looking at around $260 plus shipping.
If you reload, (or know someone who does) you could save a lot of money and time by loading the 300WSM down to .308 velocities. It's easy to do and costs nothing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou75
IIRC, weren't the WSM rifles large shank barrels too? Double check the dimensions of your shank, but if you have a large shank action, a factory .308 won't fit, unless it was from one of the target actions. I believe they were large shank actions too. Long story short, you don't see many, if any, factory barrels in .308 with a large shank, weater or not they made them.
Just get a barrel from one of the custom makers.
Good choice though to switch down to the .308. Makes shooting a lot more pleasurable. I switched from a 300WM to a 308 a few years ago, and nothing I shoot can tell the difference, except my shoulder.
Have you thought about going down to either a 270wsm or a 25wssm? All you would need to do is swap barrels.
I have heard about the different shanks so I'm going to check it out in the morning.
Mossy, i've considered the 270 WSM too but one of the reasons I want to switch is to save money on buying ammunition and be able to find it easier. Last box of 300 WSM I bought was $38 and I had to have the store order it. 308 seems to usually go for under twenty bucks and is all over the shelves. I know hand loading would solve this but I just to have the time and the means to get started in that right now.
Looks like it is the large shank barrel. From what i've heard this complicates things quite a bit.
If you go with LEE brand you can get started reloading for $208.00 or a bit more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou75
I am not sure what all you want to hunt other than whitetail deer and at what distance, but I would recommend using either 150 grain or 165 grain bullets (I use the 165) both of which I listed below, just pick your favorite.
Below are what you would need. These items will come out to around $178.00 plus shipping depending on where you get them, the prices I used below are from http://www.midwayusa.com
You will also need:
Primers at around $3.00 to 4.00 per 100, get these locally to save on hazmat fee's.
Powder at around $20.00 to $25.00 per pound, get this locally as well.
So your looking at a total of around:
$178.00 for equipment and bullets.
$30.00 for powder and primers.
For a total of about
$208.00
Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit
Product #: 121744 Lee #: 90030 $99.99
Lee Breech Lock Quick Change Bushings Package of 2
Product #: 971565 Lee #: 90600 $7.49
Lee Pacesetter 2-Die Set 300 Winchester Short Magnum (WSM) Product #: 173921 $28.99
Lee Case Length Gage and Shellholder 300 Winchester Short Magnum (WSM)
Product #: 817365 Lee #: 90034 $4.49
While you can use the lube LEE sends in the press kit (I did for the first year or 2) the Hornady One Shot is much easier and better in my opinion.
Hornady One Shot Case Lube
Product #: 438512 Manufacturer #: 9991 Product Family #: 1165269233 $7.89
Bullets below, pick your favorite or choose another from where ever you decide to order from or locally.
Speer Bullets 30 Caliber (308 Diameter) 150 Grain Spitzer Boat Tail Box of 100 Product #: 363815 $26.99
Sierra GameKing Bullets 30 Caliber (308 Diameter) 150 Grain Spitzer Boat Tail Box of 100 Product #: 467379 $23.19
Speer Bullets 30 Caliber (308 Diameter) 165 Grain Spitzer Boat Tail Box of 100 Product #: 253693 $26.99
Sierra GameKing Bullets 30 Caliber (308 Diameter) 165 Grain Spitzer Boat Tail Box of 100 Product #: 349363 $24.79
For the above $208.00 dollars you would have enough stuff to reload 100+/- rounds depending on the powder charge used.
Below is the cost per round.
$0.27 per bullet
$0.04 per primer
$0.15 to $0.24 per powder charge
For a total of
$0.46 to $0.55 per round.
$9.20 to $11.00 per box of 20 shells.
You said the last box you bought was $38.00, it only takes loading 5˝ boxes and you break even and then start to save at least $27.00 per box after that.
Or you can say the first box costs you $208.00 and after that every box is saving you money. ;)
And remember you can load down to 308 loads if you want, that will save more on powder costs. DO NOT JUST REDUCE YOUR LOADS, GET A BOOK AND MAKE SURE THE REDUCED LOAD YOU WANT TO USE IS OK TO USE AS SOME ARE NOT SAFE WHEN REDUCED.
PS. Make sure to get at least 1 reloading book if you do not already have one, get several if you can afford it.
You can also look up a lot of reloading info on the powder manufacturers websites.
Michael Grace
Lou75,
The large shank barrels will be a little harder to find and a little more expensive but it's not going to be that much more complicated. If you can't find what you want you can always buy a barrel blank and have it chambered by a gunsmith. If you need any help let me know I would be more than happy to chamber a barrel for you. Prices are listed on my website or you can give me a call if you are interested. Brian Brown.
http://bbgunworks.com/
Lou75,
Maybe this info will help you with your barrel and bolt selection. Also is a couple of links for large shank .308 barrels from Midway. Brian Brown.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/765...zle?cm_vc=S016
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/316...tainless-steel
Savage Rifle Gun Parts InformationBarrels
Most Savage barrels, barrel nuts, and actions are threaded 1.055"-20. In 2001 Savage began using a larger thread size 1-1/16"-20 for Winchester Short Magnum (WSM) calibers. This larger thread size has also been used on other magnum calibers and is often referred to as the "Large Shank" thread. Before purchasing a barrel or barrel nut, please measure the existing threads with a caliper.
Bolts
Pre-1999 non-magnum and magnum caliber rifles have a bolt head that utilizes a large firing pin body diameter (nominal diameter is .150"), termed "large hole bolt head." These rifles may also have a tab in the bolt body that mates with the bolt head.
Post-1999 rifles use a small firing pin body diameter (nominal diameter is .100") in all rifles, both magnum and non-magnum. Important: This was a running production change. The large diameter firing pin components where used to build rifles until supplies where exhausted. The rifles built during the period 1999 through late 2001 will be found with both sizes, with the exception of the controlled round feed short magnums which will be small diameter only. The only way to confirm which components a transitional period rifle may have is to dismantle the bolt and measure the firing pin shank where it goes through the bolt head retaining pin.
To convert a bolt that now has an older large hole bolt head to the later small hole bolt head, it will be necessary to replace the existing parts with a small body firing pin, bolt head retaining pin and small hole bolt head. The replacement bolt heads are available in push feed and controlled feed configurations. All controlled feed rifles have the later small pin bolt head. If the rifle´s bolt has a slot that allows an action-mounted ejector to protrude into the bolt face to eject the cartridge case, then the rifle is controlled feed. If the rifle´s bolt face has a spring-loaded ejector in it, then the rifle is push feed. All short magnums are typically controlled feed. The exception is pre-2000 rifles in the Remington Ultra Magnum calibers, which may be push feed.
Replacement push feed bolt heads do not include the ejector, ejector spring, ejector retaining pin, extractor, extractor spring or extractor detent ball. Replacement controlled feed bolt heads do not include the extractor, extractor spring or extractor detent ball.
Replacement push feed bolt assemblies are complete except for the following parts which must be ordered separately: ejector, ejector spring, ejector retaining pin.
Replacement controlled feed bolt assemblies are complete except for the following parts which must be ordered separately: extractor, extractor spring, extractor detent ball.
Later-style small hole bolt heads do not have a milled recessed area for the older bolts that had a tab in the bolt body. If the rifle had a bolt with this tab, the tab will need to be removed to accept the later-style bolt head. The tab can be ground away with a Dremel or similar tool or filed off.
When fitting a bolt head, sufficient bolt baffle washers should be inserted in the bolt assembly to insure that the fit of the bolt head and bolt baffle is snug to the bolt body proper. This insures that the bolt head is fully supported by the bolt body. Otherwise, the bolt head retaining pin is supporting the bolt head and premature failure of the bolt head retaining pin will result.
Wow, thanks so much for the help everybody. So far this is the best shooting forum I have ever seen. Not only is everyone helpful but you guys seem to really know your stuff.
Fuller, that tactical barrel is very interesting to me as I was hoping to go shorter anyway. I'm guessing the diameter of the barrel will require a new stock or at least some dremel work to the old one. Am I correct?
Baryn, I know somewhere down the line I'll be reloading but right now with working a lot and four kids I just don't have the time right now. The list you provided will be my guide when I start.
Lou,
More than likely your stock will need some work or need replacing. Brian Brown.