After you get the nut loose, does it thread hard out of the action? I won't be doing it for some time but need to figure out what I will need. I intend to do it with buying as little as possible.
Printable View
After you get the nut loose, does it thread hard out of the action? I won't be doing it for some time but need to figure out what I will need. I intend to do it with buying as little as possible.
Some are hard to thread out because of a micro bead compound they use to kinda act like loctite but not all savages ive worked on have that, some thread out really smoothly, some you have to work back and forth while cleaning up the gunk along the way. A action wrench us definitely helpful and some sort ive barrel vice to hold it in place. Then of course you'll want a set of go/no go.. I use Clymer, other good ones are forster, pacific toolQuote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Snerdly
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
They usually come out of the action ok. The nut can be pretty stubborn with all the sandblasting grit wedged in there. I would apply a good amount of oil to help work it out. And be sure to wipe up the grit as you work things loose.
All I use is a Viper barrel vice and the nut wrench.
Freeze or heat.
Just out of curiosity why a new barrel and what caliber?
A new crown and cleaning them up good shoot very well.
Show us some pictures!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I use a NSS action wrench. The barrels I removed either came free with hand turning or a little assistance from a vise grip over a leather wrap. Make sure you clean the junk out of the action threads thoroughly after the barrel is removed. I use an old tooth brush with WD-40.
Getting the nut off the barrel has given me more difficulty but I prevailed by working it back and forth with lots of WD-40 in between.
Mr. Snerdly, if You do a search on this site, You will find an infinite number of suggestions, ideas, experiences, do’s, and don’ts, relating to barrel removal. Something relating to Your exact needs will certainly be covered:(
Well, I won't do it until a few rounds are fired but the 243 barrels don't last forever. I have a 7MM-08 to put on. Just trying to learn as much as I can before I do it. Looks to me like cutting the barrel nut would make it a lot easier unless I get lucky and it comes right off. I am sure there is a small cutting wheel I could find for my air tool. If you cut into the barrel it would be no big deal. Wouldn't be able to sell it and I wouldn't want to put it back on.
If you are using an action wrench (Wheeler or NSS) make sure to loosen the clamp bolts before unscrewing the barrel. The clamp bolts only have to be "snug" overtightening them can distort or possibly damage your action.
The action wrench uses a 1/4-28 bolt that goes into the front action screw threaded hole. It provides all the "strength" needed when loosening the nut, not the clamp itself.
Just a reminder.
Before I pull a barrel, I stand the barreled action in the corner
with the muzzle on a rag. I spray into the action a chemical
called "Free". Think PB Blaster but 10 times more efficient and
very little odor. I let it sit a few hours.....Note, I have no clue
if "Free" effects bluing, so be on the cautious side in that respect.
All my actions are stainless.
If it's a blued action / barrel, the bluing salts will be in the threads of the barrel and action. I've never had any issues getting any barrel off, but there will be a lot of grit / dried bluing salts in the threads.
As other's have said, once you break the barrel nut loose, loosen the action wrench, then the barrel should unscrew pretty easily from the action.
Then clean up the action threads good, and install your new barrel.
Make sure to remove/pull the screws from the front scope base!
If one happens to be screwed all the way through the action against the threads, it will make removal difficult and can ruin the threads on the barrel and the action.
One of them hard lessons you don't soon forget :boom::black_eyed:
See, If you used an action wrench you wouldn't have done that. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by big honkin jeep
You gotta remove the front base and screws for the wrench to fit on the action.
To answer your question of how to do it with the least tools possible I put my barrel in a large vise and turned off the nut with a pipe wrench. Then the action screwed right off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Snerdly
Now to put the barrel back on I bought a light duty barrel nut + action wrench set from Amazon for $27 free shipping and I'll be renting go no go gauges for $7.
https://youtu.be/81F8oMso6dk
https://youtu.be/G3bdcQ8eN1A
https://youtu.be/uwuP0MY955Y
I've had a few actions that were tough to get off the factory barrel, but I've always been able to remove them by hand. A few had me wondering, but they always came off by hand in the end. That bead blast material can be a bugger sometimes. It helps to unscrew until it gets tight, then screw it in a half turn, then keep unscrewing.
I pulled one last night that I've pulled before. I blew off most of that bead blast material when I pulled it the first time. Last night it spun right out.
Not necessarily and it can easily be done. I had the right tools and did use an action wrench and a barrel nut wrench and a barrel vise without removing the 2 piece bases. At first when I saw the threads coming out of the action I thought it had been cross threaded from the factory before realizing what an idiot I had been. It's been quite some time ago, but a lesson I wont forget. Thankfully a member here was kind enough to loan me the correct tap to chase and clean up the action threads and at least save my action. The factory barrel unfortunately was turned into a tomato stake.Quote:
Originally Posted by Txhillbilly
I think we all have learned a few lessons that way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by big honkin jeep