How in the world can you get the muzzle break off one of these a nice 50 Bowers that can't be used. I have tried heat using pine boards after heating in a vice. Savage says its just tight but requires a gunsmith. I am trying to get it off without scaring it up which may not be possible.
Ideas?
You need a barrel vice.
You could try making round channels in two pieces of wood, for the length of the break. Then back in the vice. This provides much more surface area to grip.
This is the one I have but it is liked this thing is pinned in placeQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Bal...el-Vise/BE1127
That is a slick unit.
I wonder if it’s silver soldered? You have any pics? Where was it done?
An email from Savage says it is not. There may not be a way to get it off without marring the break UGH SAVAGE why.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Do what Dave suggests about the channeled wood, then two
more steps I would add. Soak it down with some "Free" or "Yield"
(way better then PB blaster), and drill thru the wood to match
where the ports are at. Insert a "SOFT" brass rod into those ports
for more bite.....I had to remove a brake where I almost needed to
lag the bench to the floor. Ended up using an air hammer and lead
slugs.
How old is it? Any chance it’s corrosion on the threads? Any signs of it?
I ask because an old trick for “seized” threads is actually to try TIGHTENING first...just a cinch, then loosen. It’s a good trick that will BREAK the corrosion bond. Always worth a try. But it sounds to me you’re just having a gripping problem? So, yeah..you just need more surface tension.
Good way for the wood is to cut a 3” section of 4x4. Mark and drill the center of the wood block to the approximate diameter of the break, (or barrel if that is what you are gripping). Then cut the block in half. Sand the two halves for a perfect fit. Works good & on the cheap.
What do you guys think?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h581f-JilPM
I believe it is rocksett
Give it a try.... That’s what I was getting at along the lines of SilverSolder. I know there are several other “epoxies” like Rocksett. Easy enough to try. I imagine that method is good for any STUCK muzzle attachment anyway. Let us know.
No muzzle brake should be that tight. I hope it isnt blind pinned like here in new york state. I would put it in a barrel vice and use a nother clamping device on the brake or put the brake in the barrel vice and and borrow another barrel vice and use a large wrench on the ears of the vice. Be sure to pad the vice with strips of an index card before you torque it down so as not to narr the barrel. Mount the vice on the brake in a bench vice and use the other like a wrench. Personally I would use a propane torch on the brake to get it to let go.
Thought I would come give and update SO DISAPPOINTED SAVAGE. so tried the boiling water method just in case it was rockset did it 5 times boiling water can't get it to budge either way. If Savage is making these things that tight you may as well not advertise a rifle being threaded.
What sucks even more which is new to me NO RMA shipping. So I will have to pay 50 bucks or more to ship it back -- Head popping off.
I will let everyone know when it comes back from Savage. Took it back to the shop, they put it in a barrel vice with a long breaker bar and could not get it off. I imagine Savage is going to send beack a new barrel which sucks because I know this one really shoots.
Had the exact same issue last summer. Tried everything suggested including the above. Finally I put the barrel in a vice, took a large pipe wrench with cheater bar and gave it a go. No luck! "Enough!" says I....took the barrel in my right hand, walked out the back, threw it as far as I could manage into the prairie! Still there and will remain there. I will not keep, care for nor feed an uncooperative barrel.Quote:
Took it back to the shop, they put it in a barrel vice with a long breaker bar and could not get it off.