Can anyone tell me what the differences are between the 14/114 classic and the 10/110 trophy hunter both in wood stucks? I believe the magazines and bottom metal differ slightly, but what about the stocks? Are both pillar bedded and barrel floated?
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Can anyone tell me what the differences are between the 14/114 classic and the 10/110 trophy hunter both in wood stucks? I believe the magazines and bottom metal differ slightly, but what about the stocks? Are both pillar bedded and barrel floated?
The 14/114 have an American walnut stock vs hardwood for 10/110 TH. The bottom parts (frame assembly, magazine bottom cap, trigger guard) are metal on the 14/114 vs plastic on the 10/110.
The walnut probably looks better but what about function? Are both stocks free floated for barrel and pillar bedded? im looking to buy my wife a new rifle with the concept that hopefully the rifle shoots well out of the box but if not we will do a custom on it...new barrel, possible stock swap etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdown
I don't think either are pillared, and certainly not bedded, but that is easy enough to do yourself. I believe the TH's are all Axis style mags, as well. The 14's have a much better dbm. THey will both have free floated barrels. The barrels are the same. Luck of the draw will determine how well the barrel shoots. Might not need an aftermarket one, but you won't know till you shoot it.
Also, besides the quality/look of the wood, from what I've seen, the checkering is better on the 14's. They are cut rather than pressed/stamped. At least, they used to be.
Both the walnut stock and the hardwood stock have good solid forearms similar to any aftermarket wood or composite stock. IMO, definitely worth the extra cost verses replacing a plastic factory stock. Both stocks have the same pillar inserts. The tang and barrel are usually free floated from the factory. But I usually check and do a stress-free bedding job to make sure. Tru-Oil works well for touching up the American Classic walnut stock or adding a higher gloss finish. The hardwood stocks have a cheesy looking walnut surface finish. But if you are going to do a paint job, then I believe the hardwood stocked models are the way to go.
When starting a build, I usually go with the Savage 10/110 Trophy Hunter models since they have a wood stock. I upgrade to a metal trigger guard and pachmayr decelerator recoil pad. I do a bedding job and then strip the factory finish off the hardwood stock and paint with duracoat to seal the wood. They stand up well to the usual hunting abuse, and hardwood stocks are lighter in weight than a similar style laminated stock. If you love the walnut look, then a few coats of Tru-Oil applied to the 14 American Classic stock will make it almost too pretty to use.
Here is an example of a Savage hardwood stock I just finished in duracoat woodland tan w/Krylon black spider webbing. I used a satin black GunKote finish on the Savage 11 LWH action and 22" factory sporter barrel in 7mm-08. I upgraded the trigger guard to metal ($26), but kept the plastic frame assembly and bottom cap to help reduce weight. Total weight of the rifle as pictured with upgraded pachmayr decelerator recoil pad, Weaver Grand Slam steel bases and Burris Signature rings is 7 lbs, 6 oz.
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps2138ac3b.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps48a770e9.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps52a6b88a.jpg
Beautiful finish on both the stock and metalwork!
How do you manage the spiderweb ing effect? That looks pretty sweet, great job.
Order a rattle can of Krylon Webbing Paint in gold, black, or silver.