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I ordered a hardwood stock today for my Stevens 200. I have read some tid-bits about bedding just the recoil lug. In my search I have found a You Tube about a Remington and various comments about just adding tape to a Savage. Can anyone point me to a better set of instructions on how to go about this to my ersatz Savage?
Go to the search and type in bedding a rifle. Plenty of help there
I have searched and found lots of information on complete bedding but only mentions of Recoil Lug Bedding Only. I am looking for more detail on bedding only the Recoil Lug.Quote:
Originally Posted by twarren
Point 1: Ersatz is traditionally defined as meaning: " artificial and inferior substitute or imitation" The Stevens 200 is a lower priced model of a Savage, certainly a more-than-adequate substitute, but certainly not artificial or inferior.
Point 2: I presume by bedding the recoil lug, you would put bedding material behind the rear of the lug so that the entire lug surface would evenly bear the force of the recoil. Make a space for your bedding material, put release agent on everything you don't want bedding material to stick to, goop the bedding material in behind the recoil lug and have at it. While you are at it, however, why not bed the action as well? ...and if you are bedding the action, throw on a set of pillars and do a full stressfree bedding job. It's really not much more work. Honestly. :cool:
Agree. Bed the whole thing. Just rough up the wood with a dremel and bed it all. If you have pillars with that wood stock, it may be ok not to bed the action. Just be sure both pillars are touching the action or it will bind.
To bed the recoil lug, I put a piece of tape or 2 on the barrel side of the recoil lug and leave all other surfaces bare. Apply kiwi neutral shoe polish liberally to all surfaces and tape. Fill the recoil lug space with devcon steel putty. Screw the action to the stock. Just be sure the action touches the pillars
I really don't need or want to bed the whole action. Here in West Kentucky a long shot on a coyote might be 100 yards and for a deer maybe 50 yards. No 250 to 300 yard shots around here (at least not where I hunt). I don't know if the stock has pillars, but I doubt it. It is a replacement stock from Numric's for a Savage 10 SA-Staggered Feed - same as my Stevens 200 (which is where the "ersatz" comment comes from - turning a Stevens into a Savage). I am replacing the stock for purely ecstatic reasons. I prefer wood guns. I spent 20 years in the military and I still have not forgiven them for taking my M14 away and replacing it with the Mattel piece. I know plastic stocks are more sensible on a gun I am going to carry in the woods but I still like wood. I guess I will mount the action in the stock, take it to the range and then see if I think it needs the lug bedded, the whole action bedded or just to be left alone and used.
And jgerrington - thanks for information for which I was looking at the end of your post.
Clint, i'm with you, i prefer the wood stocks also but if your new stock doesn't have pillars then all the more reason to bed the action. not much more work if you're going to do the recoil lug anyway.
I'll respectfully disagree with jgerrington...
You do NOT want to put ANY tape on the barrel side of the recoil lug.
This will create a gap- the thickness of the tape- and it will allow the action to move rearward under recoil. Whole point of bedding the recoil lug is to eliminate that...
Use blue painters tape, two layers on the front face and the sides (yeah, skinny- use a sharp razor blade to trim) to create enough space to be able to get it out of the bedding. Without the tape, you risk not having the minimal clearance necessary to get the action out of the stock.
Wouldn't the barrel side be the front side -as you suggested?Quote:
Originally Posted by tobnpr
Christ, I need a beer....or maybe something stronger.
I've been in reverse all day. Yep- he was absolutely correct.
My apology.
yep, i think i'll join you in a cold one!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by tobnpr
As will I -Quote:
Originally Posted by devildogandboy
On another note - I can use the Savage Part Finder to get parts for my rifle BUT - I am going to need the screws for a Mod 10 and need a Serial Number to look up the correct part number. Anybody got a serial number I can borrow? I was going to get them from Boyd's but they are back ordered.
Brownells has them, Midway probably does as well:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0...e_action_screw
Numrich has schematics and parts for just about any rifle.
Hope this helps...
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/...aspx?catid=386
Shown in all the schematics and on none of the parts lists.
Clint, are you looking for blue or stainless screws? i will look around in the morning and see what i have, i'm not sure if they are the longer or standard screws. i will check!Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint KY
I am looking for Blue screws. The screws for a wood stock are longer than for a plastic stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by devildogandboy
Savage Action Screw Lengths
Action screw lengths:
Short set...used on "F"(tupperware stocks)
front-1.100"
rear-1.510"
Long set...used on "G" and "B" (birch and laminated stocks)
front-1.170"
rear-1.570"
Isn't that this:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...INE-WOOD-STOCK
and this?:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...INE-WOOD-STOCK
Clint, sorry for the delay, lost a day somewhere. i have an Blue screw for the rear of the action(measures 1.570). the front ones i have are the tupperware length. pm me your address and i will send you the rear one if that will help you any.Quote:
Originally Posted by devildogandboy
Bruce