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Hi I am new here and i just purchased a model 110 in 22-250. I would like to find out what you all think it is worth, and also see if some on can tell me about what year it was made. The serial number is F047***
It also has a simmons 8-32x44 AO scope
here is a pic
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...k/22250001.jpg
Looks like it is in great shape. With an F prefix and a checkered walnut stock I would say it is at least early 80's. Probably has a cut rifleing barrel instead of button broached barrel. Speculation on my part as I have no idea when the actual date of F series were made. Clean the barrel well and make sure the barrel and tang are free floated and go shoot it.
El Lobo
Cool, Yea it is in great shape. It is a tack driver at 200 yrds. Now for the stupid question, What is tang . I know savages have a free floating barrel but what is the tang?
The tang is the portion of the reciever at the rear where the safety is. On Remingtons, etc thier mounting screw goes into the tang, Savage does not, both mounting screws go into the reciever body. Thats why you free float the tang.
El Lobo
speaking of the safety this thing is kinda hard to switch to safe. I cant get it to switch from fire to safe with my thumb or fingers. it is like it is stuck. I messed around with it last night and took the bolt out and the switch is tight but will switch. it acts like it has a burr or something in it. when I put the bolt back in it i can switch it buy i have to use something to pry it. and it will shift to fire position easy but when I try to pull it back to safe it is hard. also on my savage 111 .270 it has a red dot for fire, the 22-250 has a letter F, is there anyway to clean this are to try to free it up a bit without taking the whole gun apart?
Your rifle undouhtedly has what is called a three screw trigger. Adjusting it may free up the safety as they are related. There is a link that shows how to adjust the trigger. Just take the mounting screws out and lift the whole thing out of the stock to get at the trigger. It may just need cleaning and a little lube. While it is out of the stock sand out a little material from under where the tang sits to give it some free float. Oil the wood with true oil to protect it. When reassembling torque the action mounting screws to about 40 in/lbs. I dont have the link for adjusting the trigger but hopefully someone will chime in with it.
El Lobo
I hope so. will it hurt the accuracy of this gun if I take it apart? i have read that it is tricky being that it is free floating. I would like to get the safety fixed where it is easier to operate, cause this gun has a hair trigger. You blow on it and it goes off. ( not really but it is about that sensitive)
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...pic,510.0.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by ellobo
Thanks I will try to adjust it tomorrow. From the picture it looks like my safety is sticking on screw 3
also I have been doing some reading on here. (great site by the way), if I separate the stock from the reciever /barrel will I need to bed it? Ive never taken a gun apart, except for an old H&R singleshot. Dont want to get into to big of a job. Sorry for my ignorance in all this.
Check out the FAQ section. You do not have to bed the action, barrel, just make sure everything is free floated when you repace the barrel/action. The magazine is attached to the action. Make sure to replace the follower and spring in facing the same direction it came out. If it shoots OK then it probably does not need bedding. OK meaning less than an inch groups at 100 yds.
El Lobo.
so the stock is what actually holds the magazine spring in. gotcha. when I take the stock off the spring and magazine plate will fall out. right?
Spring with follower will fall out, yes. Welcome to the forums!Quote:
Originally Posted by bmdakk
I envy you if that is a cut rifled barrel you have.
El Lobo
Again my ignorance will now show. What is a cut rifled barrel and is it a good thing? how do I tell?Quote:
Originally Posted by ellobo
They never used cut rifled barrels on the 110's, they were all button rifled. That gun was made in late 1990, early 1991.
Thanks Fred. I didnt know all savages going back that far were button broached. To answer the previous question, button broaching is passing a hard tool with the rifling on it through the barrel. It forges all the grooves at once and is economical to do. Cut rifling is where a single cutter is passed down the bore several times to get a single groove, Has to be done for each groove. Time consuming therfore more expensive. A simple explanation.
El Lobo
Gotcha
Just as a note of safety,if you dont know how to adjust a trigger,have a pro do it.I am sure sharpshooter would agree as the safety adjustment can be very tricky ,it will seem like you adjusted it right and then you squeeze fairly stoutly and it will go off with the safety on. It is always better to err on the side of safety.
Somebody say Gotcha? Where is Gotcha? Is he OK?Quote:
Originally Posted by bmdakk