I swapped a barrel on my LRPV and have a question

I have a question but need to explain the situation first, so I’m sorry for what is going to be a long read.

I recently traded the 223 barrel off my LRPV for a take off 204. I finally got the chance to put the barrel on and had quite a time setting the head space. I ordered a set of go/no go gauges but only the go gauge was in stock. I ran the barrel up against the go gauge and then hand tightened the barrel nut. Since I didn’t have the no go gauge I placed a piece of scotch tape on the end and tested it and the bolt would not close. So, all seemed good. I set the action in the action vise and tightened the barrel up and gave the wrench a solid whap with a rubber mallet. I then took the tape off the gauge and tried the go gauge again, the bolt would not close. After a couple of times going through setting the head space I found that when tightening the barrel nut, the barrel would turn slightly at first thus changing the head spacing. Once I found this I compensated and now the head space is set for both go and no go.

While going through all this I noticed that after I screwed the barrel up against the bolt it was about 2 or 3 turns from being up against the barrel nut which I had ran all the way to the end of the threads. Seems that the treaded part of the barrel is short. I initially thought that the chamber may have been set back for some reason but I’m pretty sure the barrel has not been modified. I did notice that the recoil lug is quite a bit larger then the ones on my other small shank savages. This may have accounted for what seams to be short threads.

Now for my question ….. looking at the two situations together, is there anything I should be concerned about? I am thinking of not shooting it until the actual no go gauge comes in, hopefully soon, just to make sure the head spacing is correct. As far as the threads, I assume that as long as the head spacing is correct it’s a non issue.

Sounds like the recoil lug being thicker is the issue. Still got the thinner one? Put it back on or try to run the nut up the threads a little more. I've run into the same thing with shorter barrel threads. That's the reason I stick with the thinner recoil lugs. Depends on who cut the barrel threads. I've had some cut "just a little longer" so the thicker lugs can be used. Either have the threads lengthened or stick with the thin lug. If the headspace is set to propes specs, you're good to go. ;)

Mikie,

I don't have the thinner one, the thicker one was on the LRPV when I got it. It looks like it was meant to be semi permantly attached to the receiver. The "nub" on the lug was pressed into the receiver index notch in such a way that you would have to put effort into separating the two.... the lug would not just fall off.

I think I'm going to wait for the no go gauge to arrive to make sure all is good. I ordered a go and no go set from Midway initially and got two completly different vendor gauges. One was a Clymer and the other was a PGK. Sent them back and went with another set.

leave the gauge in the chamber when you tighten the nut.

I didn't think about leaving it in the chamber during the final tightening. When I get the no go gauge I may loosen the barrel and do it agian taking your suggestion 82boy.

..I just use a sized case...screw the bbl. down till you feel it bottom on the case..work the bolt till you get a slight tension..then tighten the nut down..work the bolt again & see if you have a lite drag..if you do you're set..

Nothing wrong with having a "tighter" headspace if you roll your own ammo. If all you shoot is factory off the shelf ammo you might run into a problem chambering that ammo. Adjust accordingly.

I've got a bunch of gauges but I set my headspace on the "tight side" because I'll never use factory ammo. When I started swapping barrels, I used the gauge but after a short time I put them away and use only full length rersized cases now. No factory ammo will fit any of my chambers. Never tried but my guess is factory ammo wouldn't fit? If you've got gauges, use them till you really get the hang of it them use what works best for you. ;)

I don't have any fired 204 cases yet however I do have some new unfired cases. Once I am into reloading them I may reset the head space off of one of the fireformed cases.

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Originally Posted by 82boy

leave the gauge in the chamber when you tighten the nut.

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+1, works like a charm for me ;D

I filled an empty fired round with epoxy and then used it as my go guage ;)

Yep, leave the go gage in the chamber when you tighten it up.
You really should use a nogo gage, but it takes 2 pieces of scotch tape to make a go gage into a no go.

That said, when tightening the nut with the go gage in the chamber, for me it has always been perfect the first time.