Choate stock

So i just ordered a choate stock and factory plastic bottom plate to convert my non magazine rifle to have a detachable mag, will i need any extra screws since my current stock doesn't have a bottom plate and do the choate stocks require some type custom bedding or are they already bedded?

I presently own two of there stocks.They are both aluminum bedded and are very
solid stocks. Both of my rifles one on a varmint the other on a tactical can shoot
.25 inch 5 shot groups @ 100 if i do my part.. I did bed the tactical stock to see if
it would shoot better but nothing changed. The aluminum bed does the job. I have
blind mags so i can't answer that question. :peace:

Bunky,
Do you also use the plastic bottom metal on either of your Choates? I’d like to know if you can torque down the screws well enough with the aluminum beds. Looking for a stock for my Trophy Hunter with Axis style mags and not spending $150 for metal bottom metal, thanks!


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Well I just re-read your post and realized you have the blind mags, ha, never mind about the bottom metal. Do you have the metal trigger guard or plastic?


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Its a metal guard. The action donor Savage Model 10 FXP came with the plastic guard but it didn't hold up.
Ordered a new one from Gun Shack. Only thing you will have to do is make a spacer/shim where the rear action
screw goes for proper line up..

Thank you for the info


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I have played with these stocks a fair bit and I found that there is an extremely tricky balance between the action screw length and being able to torque the action to proper ftLbs. The stocks often come with screws and I have found that in order to get past 45lbs I have to grind a substantial amount off. Preety much put it togeather then take it down and shave a bit off and rinse an repeat until you have enough toque to have a solid fit and you don't bind the action. I find that it's not worth bedding them but every stock and rifle is unique.

Converting it to a dbm is essentially the same process of getting the correct screw length. However due to feed issues you can add in washers to shim it but personally I avoid shims as they can shift when removing the stock thus I try to stick to screw length and if possible you can pillar bed it once you have the proper height and then you know it's going to be consistent when reassembled and it shouldn't have any feed issues. Ultimately unless you want to do it purely to learn I reccomened getting it professionally done. The amount of time to do it right is long enough that your own time and the risk of messing up typically is not worth it.

yea maybe ill just leave it alone and get it done properly. i got the rifle super cheap, literally 250$ never shot before from a buddy, bought a decent scope mounted it and went and shot it the first time two days ago. Funny thing was the first 3 shots hit exactly where i was aiming making 1 jagged hole, i didnt even have to adjust anything it just dead on the money. That was a first for me

What model gun are you working with? When I did mine savage 12v I used the factory rear action screw and ordered a front screw from midway that was for the hs precision stock rifles.