Printable View
I own several caliber rifles. I have always shot factory loaded ammo and had decent results. Within the last year I have had the desire to get imto precision shooting. To do this I want to get into reloading so I can develop my own rounds for accuracy. I was wondering if any of yall could please recommend the best setup for a starter. Also I was wondering if this would save some money on ammo. Any help you could provide would be appreciated.
Here's a similar question you might review.....just a couple of weeks old.
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...n-on-reloading
It will not save you any money because you'll shoot more, but you'll be shooting much better quality ammo and you'll enjoy shooting even more.
- Single stage press like the RCBS Rockchucker.
- Case tumbler (cleaner) and the tumbling media. (you can just wipe the outside of the cases to get them clean if you choose for now)
- A hand priming tool.
- RCBS Full Length sizing dies are best for a beginner. I don't like Hornady dies.
- Powder dispenser and scale or an electronic dispenser of which I only recommend RCBS Chargemaster or the new Chargemaster lite.
- A dial caliper.
- Real all instructions that came with anything you buy for reloading !
Everything else you don't need right away and can get as you evolve....
- Case trimmer
- Chamber/deburr tool
- Bullet comparators
- Primer pocket cleaning / uniforming and military crimp removal tools.
- and more.
I'm sure I'm missing something very important but others will chime in or you'll find in one of your searches.
It is a great hobby if you are really into it
But you sure won't save money on ammo
Tread lightly at first. See if it is really something you want to pursue.
Eventually, if you stick with it, the search for the perfect load will take you down the rabbit hole.
That was my thread that was linked above. Lots of good info there.
Here's what I ended up getting setup with.
-Rcbs rock chucker supreme combo.
-lee dies for the calibers i wanted to load
- Frankfort tumbler
There's some other stuff that was needed/wanted.
So far I'm happy with everything. I've been loading almost every night. I've been getting pretty efficient when loading some plinking ammo for my pistol. Took me just a couple minutes over an hour to load 100 rounds from measuring bare cases to the finished round.
What you got will get you going for a while.
Don't sweat it when the brass grows a few thousands of an inch over the max case length. All Factory SAAMI chambers have 0.020" to 0.025" longer chamber neck than max case length.
For example... 308win max case length is 2.015" but I let them grow to 2.025" before trimming because I know my chamber ends at 2.040" on both the 308win chamber I reload for.
Reloading and loading for precision are very often two different things. The basic tools needed to reload good ammunition are noted above, but if you are really going for precision capability, you will need some very caliber-specific tools.
As far as cost savings, because I load for some non-mainstream rounds, I can claim I save money over factory, but I probably break even because it allows me to shoot higher volume for the same money. What you really need to consider is the TIME... reloading costs time.
No it won't save you any money. If you want precision rounds you will wind up with probably at least $1500 in the right tools.
IU would strongly suggest Thrumblers Tumblers over Frankfurt any day. TTs work and are quiet, very effective.
Read my post if you want to save a lot of interim stuff.
Stainel pins in a tumbler get cleaner brass and that's the way I will go down the road.
It bears on the issue if you Anneal
If you Anneal then the Annie unit is the most consistent (Ferris Coil setup)_
If I was doing it from ground zero I would get the Trim It II Trimmer and the insert for your calibers (it helps if you have 500 cases so you can do a lot at one time, blades have to be adjust for the next cartridge you do)
Chuck it in a cord drill, clamp it upside down in a vice and set the trigger lock and you have a motorized trimmer (and it works well).
Most people do it by hand with the cordless in one hand and the shell in the other (which I did until the day my batteries were all dead)
I figured out quick the 1/2 inch Milwaukee was not going to be held in my hand and used a process from past with sander in the vice .
500 cases?
You will wear the barrel out.before they need trimming
That's 10 reloads and the average is more like 5 x through.
Also new brass gets trimmed to chamfer and de-burr.
One fired is often at or a tad over max.
+1 on the not saving a ton of money becouse you end up shooting more.. And with prices what they are today its kinda hard to justify loading calibers like 9mm. Now when the price goes back up , and it will , you will be saving money and getting premium ammo once your loading skills get better.. Reloading like any hobbie is constantly growing , learning and upgradeing equipment or components...
Most people think that reloaders are better shots becouse they reload and that's true becouse they shoot more.. Quality ammo helps but is no substitute for trigger time.. In rifle it's hard to beat federal gold medal match ammo but an experienced reloader can and save money doing it.. If your loading non NATO calibers you can really save some money..
As others have said buy the best stuff you can the first time even if you have to save up for awhile to get it.. In the precision reloading world you get what you pay for.. While your waiting read everything to can , this will continue forever. The way your reloads get better is for you to be a better reloader.. By doing this you will save money by not buying stuff or components that doesn't work or work well together... And go slow and be safe.. If there is any doubt...DON'T do it till you find out for sure.. I had no one , but if you can get an experienced reloader to help you it will help shorten the learning curve...
True that, and one of the reasons why I quit loading 9mm and .223. With the cost of the component materials and the time it takes to process bottle-neck cartridges in particular, it's hard to justify it vs readily available factory or surplus ammo. I've even found I'm shooting more .308 factory (in my M1a, not the Savage) vs reloading now that prices have stabilized.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rsadams
1) Good for you! But be carefull, "precision shooting" is fraught with voodoo and BS when it comes to advice on the equipment you "need" to be accurate.Quote:
Originally Posted by firemedic142
2) "Best" is an individuals description of what he likes, not a universal thing. I used the Lee Anniversary kit for at least a decade before I bought there iron cast press. The kit comes with everything you need to load ammo. What NO ONE else will tell you is that the stuff that comes with it is capable of making ammo that is more accurate than 90% of all shooters out there, they just aren't good enough marksmen to know it.
3) This just really depends on what you are buying for ammo, how much, etc. A VERY long time ago now, back when I did some cost analysis on the various kits out there, it would take something like 1,200 rounds to pay-back everything. This of course depends on the cartridge(powder being burned, etc.)
Sorry, but not exactly true....depends upon cartridge he's loading for and contingent upon die being set up perfectly. Not something a newbie can be expected to do without some expert mentoring. Some chamber designs such as 22-250 and 243 tend to move more brass each cycle due to shoulder angle, so trimming becomes very important. Definitely on his must buy list, IMOP.Quote:
Originally Posted by m12lrs
As for longer chambers in factory guns, the extra gap tends to become filled in with carbon build up, and if not removed on a regular basis, can act just like a chamber cut to Match specs. Stick a too long case in there and you'll possibly pinch a bullet, disassembling your gun on the firing line in a most unpleasant manner. I've seen it happen with a stock Savage (not mine, fortunately).
Not looking to call anyone out here, just wanting to keep everyone safe.
A comment on the carbon. If you do a minimum bump back then the chamber really is not longer.
The brass is fire formed to the chamber.
Throat? Have to chew on that but I check up to lands and then move back a bit.
If accuracy is your goal, there is another course of action available beside hand loading; barrel tuners. As cheap as $10 on the low end, and the sky's the limit on the high end, but for ten bucks you can determine if it's right for you.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Sims-...tor/741294.uts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSoTBceFkww
Just noticed the OP's not been back for more than a month, so the question is probably moot.
Firemedic, what calibers were you thinking of reloading for?