Just wondering if investing in a new SSS recoil lug is worth the investment while I have the barrel off? Any feedback?
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Just wondering if investing in a new SSS recoil lug is worth the investment while I have the barrel off? Any feedback?
yes
Definately, replace the lug. The factory lug is stamped and is not dead flat on the recoil face.
Yes, +3
with the facxtory ones not being completely true, a $28 investment is worth eliminating that variable, especially since you already have the barrel off.
Yes+4, both the SSS and NSS are very good lugs.
Steve
Yes +5 ;)
If I'm going to bed the recoil lug anyway, would I still get a significant advantage from replacing the lug? I don't have the barrel removal tools and don't foresee another reason to need them in the near future.
KeS
Yep to you. And yep to the original poster. +6Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin_stevens
Ok. I'll order one. Can I get an explanation of why? I thought the whole point of bedding the recoil lug was to give a solid matched surface for it to bear on - wouldn't that compensate for any bend or irregularity?Quote:
Originally Posted by JackinSD
And, may as well throw this in there - anyone in the San Diego area who has the barrel/action tools and wants to walk me through the process for suitable compensation?
KeS
Kevin,
Let's say the stamp is not perfectly centered on the recoil lug. One side could be slightly behind the other, in the recoil direction. You want the recoil lug to be square (90 degrees) in opposition of the the recoil. If is is not perpindicular, you would have a barrel that pushed to one side or the other on recoil, not straight back.
I wish I had a way to show you. Hopefully, you understand my example.
The lug on my 30-06 was almost U shaped. I tried the route you are talking about and had no success. I replaced the recoil lug and got a shooter out of it. Of course, I had to rebed the darn thing. But, it is all tinkering and a learning process.
Yes, I thought of that, though clearly insufficiently. But OTOH, there's two parts involved - if the face of the recoil wall, or whatever it's called, in the stock isn't true, that will drive even a perfectly machined lug offline.
Ah well, we do what we can with what we have. Can I assume a 2006 .375 barrel has a large shank? And how thick a lug should I get for that barrel?
KeS