Setting up a scope correctly (Possibly an easier way?) Please discuss

We all want our scope reticles leveled so that the horizontal axis is really horizontal and the vertical axis, if extended, would run through the exact center of the barrel. Here's a technique that I believe does that with minimal effort.

This is submitted for discussion. I don't pretend to be an expert, and perhaps I am overlooking something critical here.

Before doing this, make sure the rifle is unloaded and that you follow all safety rules.

1. center the reticle (I use a point midway between the elevation and windage extremes.) I have heard that one can also do this easily by placing the scope on a mirror and lining up the reticle with the reflected reticle.
2. Mount your scope keeping it loose enough to turn in your mounts.
3. Set the forward/rearward position of your scope for your cheekweld and optimum eye relief.
4. Take the rifle with the scope to a mirror on your wall.
5. Look through your scope straight into the reflection of the scope in the mirror. You should be able to see the reflected reticle.
6. Place your scope's vertical reticle right on top of the reflected vertical reticle and keep it there.
7. Now with one hand, rotate the scope, keeping the real and reflected reticle superimposed on each other until your vertical reticle bisects the reflection of the end of the barrel.
8. If I have explained myself clearly, now your vertical reticle should be running through the center of your muzzle and the center of your scope while still superimposed on the reflected reticle.

I think now your scope would be properly aligned with your rifle.
Tighten your rings to an appropriate torque value without moving the scope and you should be good to go.

Edit: Tried this a few days ago with a 3-9 scope on 3 power worked well. This evening with a fixed 10 power scope, this method did not work so well. I think it needs a relatively low power to be effective.

I find the two magnetic spirit levels takes all the guess work out of it.

I like the way Tony Boyer levels a scope. He goes out on a relatively calm day and hangs a plum bob on the target backer. He levels the rifle, and then he places the vertical cross hairs on the plum line, and locks it down. Tony also likes to keep the scope optically centered. (With all adjustments in the center of their travel.) He centers the scope, and then bore sites it on the target, placing shims under the scope between it and the rings. Once he has the scope on, he super glues the shims to the ring. He then goes back and beds the rings to the scope. A bit of clean up, and he puts it all beck together.

The mirror things something I would have never thought of, kinda interesting, worth trying maybe. Ive always put my gun on the front and rear bag and support that I use when I shot off my bench. I level the gun with a small level on top off the bases. Then level the scope using the top turret. Gun and scope are aligned together. Also get down on the rifle as If I was shooting, Get comfortable with my eyes closed, what feels like my natural shooting position then open my eyes and slide the scope forward/back whatever needed to give proper eye relief. As long as you have the relief thats right for you and you get everything level thats what important. Do what ever works for you.

How close / fare away from the mirror did you go once riffle mounted??

I was in the same room, put the scope on the lowest power and was, oh, maybe 3-6 feet away from the mirror. I rested the rifle on the back of an upholstered chair to hold it steady while I manipulated it.

The 10 power scope wouldn't focus that closely, but the three-power (a 3-9 Nikon) did.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 82boy

He goes out on a relatively calm day and hangs a plum bob on the target backer. He levels the rifle, and then he places the vertical cross hairs on the plum line, and locks it down. Tony also likes to keep the scope optically centered.

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This is how I do it also. I've also found that using quality rings and bases leaves my stuff really close on the bore sight, with only minor adjustments to get zero. No need to over think it.