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Just got my PTG bolt head (LH, LA, .308) after a two month wait. Very well machined. Except... the lugs are 60 thousands too long front to back. So it won't close.
IIRC, .560 vs. the correct .500.
I'm new at this: Can I correct this by screwing the barrel out, and re-headspacing? Or do I need to return the head to PTG?
Thanks.
Should ALWAYS re- head space when installing a new bolt head and/or barrel. That would fix the bolt oversize issue.
I was going to reheadspace-- I'm not _that_ new. But the bolt won't turn. Is there really an extra 60 thousandths space in there? Seems like an awful lot. I recognize that if it fits, the barrel's going to need to come out 60 thou. But I don't want to pull the barrel for nothing.
Am I overreacting here? I measured three other bolt heads-- they're all effectively .500.
Just put the mic on my Manson head space gauges: GO measures 2.245........... NO GO measures 2.254 ....... .009 difference.
Not much room to work with..... turn the barrel out. Head space is too tight right now to turn the bolt...back the barrel out. NBD
If I remember correctly there is usually about .010 between a Savage bolt head & the barrel face when the barrel is chambered according to SAMMI and a go gauge is snug....So with the longer bolt head the barrel will have to move forward accordingly...Like Palerider338 said you should always re-headspace when changing bolt heads...
Good Luck,
Randy
9/16 bolt head is for the WSM's. There is a picture of it on here somewhere. Is the boltface .473?
Found it.
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...Configurations
http://www.savageshooters.com/attach...5&d=1341581420
L to R
short action (7/16" lugs)
short action controlled round feed(1/2" lugs)
long action (1/2" lugs)
new short action heavy magnum (9/16" lugs)
I would call PTG and ask them. It should work by moving the barrel out .060 +or- to get headspacing.
Hi 60 thou in head space adjustment is nothing, when you have a barrel nut setup, it's like 1/8 turn of the barrel not even, for you visual folks, it's like having the barrel stamping at 12 O clock, and then add .60 thou longer bolt head so turn the barrel out, then the stampings would be 12:30, not even an issue, I have seen factory total bolt assembly's vary almost as much, when swapping them from gun to gun.
Dean
Quote:
Originally Posted by scope eye
One turn of a 20 pitch thread is .050". An eight of a turn would get'cha about .002".:p
Bill
Sorry your right, I was thinking 6 thou not 60 thou, but there is still plenty of threads to still set it, "note to self do not post until you have had your morning coffee"
Dean
Bill, .050/8=.00625Quote:
Originally Posted by BillPa
No one likes a show off. LOL
Dean
How can you show off if you have that black and blue ring around your eye. Seriously, the cool thing about the 8th turn is that the barrel nut has 8 notches. If you use a torque wrench with your barrel nut wrench, you can use the notches and a index mark on the barrel(and or the action if you dont have a torque wrench) and make minor headspace adjustments using the notches to gauge the rotation allowing you to have an idea how much you have changed the headspace. Half the distance between the notches is .0031 linier movement. Center to center being .0062.
I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy. LOL
Dean
Quote:
Originally Posted by stangfish
Speak'n of not enough coffee........I think I thought I meant "one eighth of "AN INCH" rotation will get'ya .002" . :p
We need a rule.....NO posting until working on or having consumed the 10th cup!!!!
Bill
I need a rule....Stangfish cannot post unless he personaly is asked a question.Quote:
Originally Posted by BillPa
Works for me. LOL
Tanks Spanky
Rule # 2......http://www.steephill.tv/entries/eucl...e-close-up.jpg
It was a lot worse than that, oh man you have no idea, imagine 50 BMG, but with no muzzle brake, I still have the scar to this day.
Dean
Rule #2. Always..Always shoot a 50bmg with the muzzlebreak installed and a scope with lots of eye relief!
Rule #3.
Only an issue if you have a brake and it is already timed. That 1/8 turn of the barrel would mean that you would also need to re-time your brake.
Good point capreppy. Now you need a lathe or a shim pack.