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I've got to 1500 rounds on a .308 Varmint #12 before I had to make an adjustment to the trigger pull. I was getting light strikes. When I first got it I had set it down to 2# and then went up to 2.5# recently. I'm hoping this not going to be a trend. Looking for some experienced advice.
Light strikes would not seem to be the trigger. Be curious to wee what the experienced guys say.
Mine started acting up when I set it all the way down (took a few range sessions, maybe 300 rounds). Got the lock out think. Moved it in 1 turn and ok.
I am putting together my own reference on the trigger, got Hotolds442 acu trigger parts moved to a DOC file.
Does anyone have a good clear blowup of the exploded diagram of the trigger works? I have a fuzzy one that is ok but be nice to have a good clear one.
Have you ever had the bolt apart for cleaning and lube. Do you let the firing pin down when you put the gun away. Springs are usually pre set before installation but not always and if left cocked for long periods they take a set at a shorter length and could cause light strikes but my guess is lack of lube or powder residue in the bolt.
bolt is always out during storage so yeah the spring is compressed. I did take it apart and inspect it before I started the thread. Looks like something slightly etched the side of the pin where it travel through the bolt at some point but I didn't see any shavings or other evidence showing what was up inside there. I polished that part of the pin up. Pin protrusion is .064
I only have about 170 rounds through my 308. My pin protrusion is .057 and the trigger is set to its lightest at 1.6 lbs according to the RCBS scale.
I notice that the primer dents are not as deep as any of my Rem 700 rifles but ignition is positive even with hard military primers. I think I read that
some timing issues related to the upper and lower sear tabs could effect how far back the firing pin is held and would cause light or heavy strikes depending
on which way it was out. Check the FAQ for the sticky on Mechanical Fucntion
Crap, so the brass itself is a little on the reloaded side. I estimate this particular set of 200 brass cases have been reloaded on their 11th time. This appears to be the life of these cases. The light primer strikes are due to primer pocket depth and seating (loose). Pin hits a primer that is seated flush with the case and the pin fully seats the primer but does not ignite. The next strike on the primer is ignition. So, this weapon actually is going on 2,200 rounds down it. The rest of the cases look fine. I think with the primers I'm using the pocket size is changing enough to cause a seating problem. But like mentioned above keeping the mainspring compressed all the time can't be good.
Still, I would like to know if anybody knows how long does the accutrigger lasts. Seems to be a little on the delicate side and not sure if it was meant to be expected to survive x thousands of rounds.
That might depend on the pull weight/spring preload and lube.Quote:
Still, I would like to know if anybody knows how long does the accutrigger lasts. Seems to be a little on the delicate side and not sure if it was meant to be expected to survive x thousands of rounds.
I don't know why the Accutrigger would have a limited life. If the sear is worn, it might need replacing. Similarly, the trigger itself. But other than that, it seems to me its just a hunk of metal that will never "die". It should last forever.
The spring could get weak after a while, I suppose, but then its only a few dollar part. Try replacing it.
Still, none of that has anything whatsoever to do with ignition or primer strikes, light or heavy.
I found one guy on the Internet that seems to think 1500 is the life. I've surpassed that number with no problems.
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/thr...igger.3799048/
I realized I had not asked if reloading, ergo the primer issue.
11 is not too much for a 308 (good brass) and unless the load is high end, pockets should be ok.
Helps a lot if you:
1: Do minimum should bump back (stops the cracked bases)
2. Anneal though its a tough one, best is the electronic and I am lucky my brother bought an Annie and I can do 500 in less than 30 minutes.
Primer Pocket: I have two thoughts.
1. Hand primer that you can be sure the primer is fully seated. I use the RCBS universal, love it, very positive feedback (not good if you have arthritis )
2. If you are not using, try CCI. They run a tad larger. About half the target shooters use CCI plane, the other half use BR-2 and then smattering of the other primers.
Short of polishing away the outer hardness the trigger should go for a very very long time. Certainly more rounds than you have, I probably have close to that in mine.
Once you work through it there is some valid information there.Quote:
Originally Posted by culpeper
The part about too light is spot on. I had the same issue. I went back up a bit and just fine.
I don't buy the part about the acu is in line with poor 700 triggers. I have shot both, acu is vastly better the Rem trigger. I like it as well as a number of Timny and Jewel triggers I have shot, that just me, I suspect for a fine tuned guy they are better. I am not ham fisted but I don't have real sensitive fingers either.
I think the guy Jim is wrong in you can turn it into a target acu with a sear.
My solution if I wanted less than the Varmint allows (1.5 lbs) I would turn it into a target acu and then adjust it up higher (1.5 lbs seems to be my lower current limit, for sure not under 1) That may change
It is true for sure that it gets picky at low adjustment.
I may do the sear change and see how I like it one of these days, but I won't set it to minimum.